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Have a 1967 Ranger with 390, has a 4 barrel intake, with a new 600cfm Edelbrock carb, stand alone MSD distributor also new, new wires, plugs, coil and fuel pump. Timing at 18 degrees, vacuum about 15 inches,
Starts and runs, idles rough , tried adjusting timing from 0-30 degrees, rough all the way is through along with no power and backfires out exhaust, tried adjusting idle trim screws at carb all way from 1/2 turn out to 3 turns out 1/4 turn at a time,
Compression check showed 100psi-120psi
Oddity is timing light doest constant blink it's almost a 5 count between blinks
No matter where I set it, idles rough, no power, backfires through exhaust. Open throttle just hear it sucking air and boggs out, back fires, return to idle and it will idle but rough
Last edited by Mobilegarage; Oct 12, 2023 at 12:29 PM.
Sounds like you're lean to me or have a vacuum leak You say new carb. What was on it before?
Just because parts are new doesn't mean they are good. I've gotten a lot of bad new parts the last few years. If it were me I'd start swapping things back out with whatever you had before.
Originally had a two Barrel but it took a **** , so got a 4 barrel Ford intake and the Edelbrock, this is Edelbrock 2 because I already swapped it out today to see if the new one was junk same results. I smoke tested it and didn't see and leaks, hosed it down with brake cleaner as it ran and no changes.
That engine should not be at 18 degrees. Should be 12 - 14 at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged on the carb side. Once that is good you should be able to plug the vacuum back in and see it advance as you rev the engine. But the timing bouncing around sounds like a distributor problem. Does the timing shaft have any play in it? If take the cap off and wiggle the rotor is there any play? Also the compression, are those dry or wet readings?
Backed it down to 14 degrees, no difference, did a full swing from 8 degrees to 28 degrees a couple degrees at a time and no real difference, pulled the distributor no shaft play, checked the worm gear on cam and looks good, compression test was after it idles for about 30 minutes
Last edited by Mobilegarage; Oct 14, 2023 at 10:32 AM.
Are you measuring that under the carburetor or elsewhere like the port for the brakes and or transmission? That really should be a bit higher. Is the needle steady or is it oscillating back and forth?
Yeah it definitely should be higher, measuring from the main vacuum port on the bottom of the Edelbrock that you would run the brake booster to. It has a small+-1 slow oscillation.
Why I thought it had a vacuum leak and did a smoke test on it
That could also be a leaky valve guide or ring/rings leaking compression. Now here is an opinion that will almost certainly require a flame-suit to be put on. About 10-15 years ago (I think) MSD was bought out and there modern line uses electronics that I don't think are up to the challenge. For a more reliable spark I would consider a Pertronix unit in a stock style distributor. But it sure sounds like you have an engine that would benefit from a freshening up. The only other thing I can think of is using a smoke machine to see if you have a vacuum leak from someplace random.