7.3 Motor mount replacement Q's
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 13,360
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Easy now.
The author of post #7 specifically set the context and parameter, in both duration of time and field of view, as the pre-conditions to the stated observation.
To break that down:
Within the last 12 years (time duration) on FTE (parameter of field of view) no one has reported breaking a motor mount.
But there is always a first time for everything, right?
Two days after Post #7, we have our first report!
See whatcha started?
Pretty soon we're all gonna haveta be replacing motor mounts.
Hurry up please and get yours done already so we can learn how.
The author of post #7 specifically set the context and parameter, in both duration of time and field of view, as the pre-conditions to the stated observation.
To break that down:
Within the last 12 years (time duration) on FTE (parameter of field of view) no one has reported breaking a motor mount.
But there is always a first time for everything, right?
Two days after Post #7, we have our first report!
See whatcha started?
Pretty soon we're all gonna haveta be replacing motor mounts.
Hurry up please and get yours done already so we can learn how.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 540
From: Rock Hill, SC
To have fun with this, and be a little deliberately agitating 
. Post #7 assumes that I have, or there is, that I suspect, or is suspected, or is implied to be a broken motor mount, and suggests that no human body in the world has ever broken a mount, since the "lurking FTE" doesn't marry/list the actual data you state to be that of FTE members specifically. And that my suggestion of a noise is in need of triage so I can go on living another day. 
I think I did pretty good rebuilding the 10.5 rear end having never touched one, only having the shop manual,and about 30 years of playing with wrenches. 
As far as a write up, Eh there really is no need. I will be ordering another set of CAC boots, as the pipes need to be removed, this time aftermarket to hopefully gain some longevity. I'll move forward, get the mounts replaced, post a few pics on my historical thread, and move on. Kind of regretting the 2 thread posts all together.
. Post #7 assumes that I have, or there is, that I suspect, or is suspected, or is implied to be a broken motor mount, and suggests that no human body in the world has ever broken a mount, since the "lurking FTE" doesn't marry/list the actual data you state to be that of FTE members specifically. And that my suggestion of a noise is in need of triage so I can go on living another day. I think I did pretty good rebuilding the 10.5 rear end having never touched one, only having the shop manual,and about 30 years of playing with wrenches. As far as a write up, Eh there really is no need. I will be ordering another set of CAC boots, as the pipes need to be removed, this time aftermarket to hopefully gain some longevity. I'll move forward, get the mounts replaced, post a few pics on my historical thread, and move on. Kind of regretting the 2 thread posts all together.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
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These don't tend to wear out or go bad is the general consensus? How about the transmission mount on it's crossmember?
I've noticed for about the past year or so that the engine in mine also makes an extra kick when I pull the key and it spins to a stop. And the engine and transmission seems to vibrate and pulsate quite a bit when I crawl under there and watch it and feel the oil pan and bellhousing. I'm also trying to figure out why the rear seal on the trans yoke keeps leaking. Driveline was just redone by a professional shop. Transmission and clutch are brand new and something is still up.
I'm guessing it's either the rear end pinion bearings and pinon sending a shimmy up the driveline and deflecting the trans output shaft disturbing the lip seal, or it's coming from the front of the house with bad motor mounts or possibly a harmonic balancer. I have also had trouble keeping a pinon seal in the rear end...17-18k miles and it starts leaking. VERY frustrating old truck stuff here when you start playing the "it could be this/it could be that" game. That problem is somewhere between the front bumper and the rear...got it narrowed down that far.
I've noticed for about the past year or so that the engine in mine also makes an extra kick when I pull the key and it spins to a stop. And the engine and transmission seems to vibrate and pulsate quite a bit when I crawl under there and watch it and feel the oil pan and bellhousing. I'm also trying to figure out why the rear seal on the trans yoke keeps leaking. Driveline was just redone by a professional shop. Transmission and clutch are brand new and something is still up.
I'm guessing it's either the rear end pinion bearings and pinon sending a shimmy up the driveline and deflecting the trans output shaft disturbing the lip seal, or it's coming from the front of the house with bad motor mounts or possibly a harmonic balancer. I have also had trouble keeping a pinon seal in the rear end...17-18k miles and it starts leaking. VERY frustrating old truck stuff here when you start playing the "it could be this/it could be that" game. That problem is somewhere between the front bumper and the rear...got it narrowed down that far.
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Right now it's difficult, because I'm not doing the swap correctly. Once I have time, and no camping trips planned, I will remove whatever I see in my way, and go from there. A small reason that led me to replace was sometimes when I turn the truck off, I recently get a knock/clunk, kinda like when the engine rests but gives a little feedback stopping partially on a compression stroke. So I thought just do motor mounts and see where that leaves me.
Truck is old and has been used hard. Closing in on 400,000 miles, plus it’s a manual transmission. They tend to wear parts out faster if you think about the normal operation of a dry clutch coupled drivetrain vs a fluid torque converter coupled one on an automatic. Plus dial in some ham-fisted driving habits and operator mistakes…
I know I have a vibration/NVH problem. What I don’t know is if it’s a securement issue with the motor/trans mounting points or an issue with the engine’s balance. Flywheel is a newer LuK solid unit and the crank balancer is original. I’d be curious to hear some first hand accounts of what happens when a crank dampener quits doing its job. It still runs true and doesn’t wobble is all I can really say about it.
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Not only that...it kind of looks and sounds like a nightmare trying to do this with the engine in the truck. Especially if it's a taller ZF6 trans. Might even be impossible with the engine and trans still married without lifting the cab. Even then there's still a bunch of stuff that would need to be removed and/or disconnected from the engine in order to safely lift it up far enough to swap the mounts out.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 540
From: Rock Hill, SC
After disturbing my mounts a while back, the noise has disappeared. I am still collecting more OE, & NOS parts to replace once I go in to do the mounts.
An FYI for those that don't follow or know me well, in my world, things get replaced due to age, preference, and current availability of parts.
An FYI for those that don't follow or know me well, in my world, things get replaced due to age, preference, and current availability of parts.
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I noticed Energy Suspension now offers a polyurethane trans mount for Ford applications as per Rock Auto that should work for this age range of F-series, but they are all kinds of not clear on which one is which or what the difference between the two is. I would order one if I could figure it out.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=8756&jsn=557
Here's what it looks like:
https://www.lmperformance.com/166029...ctr-black.html
There's two different part numbers...a 41142G and a 41143G with a 2.312 CTR and 2.375 CTR respectively. Not even what that refers to but if available in red I want one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=8756&jsn=557
Here's what it looks like:
https://www.lmperformance.com/166029...ctr-black.html
There's two different part numbers...a 41142G and a 41143G with a 2.312 CTR and 2.375 CTR respectively. Not even what that refers to but if available in red I want one.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5,110
Likes: 1,424
From: Oologah, OK
I noticed Energy Suspension now offers a polyurethane trans mount for Ford applications as per Rock Auto that should work for this age range of F-series, but they are all kinds of not clear on which one is which or what the difference between the two is. I would order one if I could figure it out.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=8756&jsn=557
Here's what it looks like:
https://www.lmperformance.com/166029...ctr-black.html
There's two different part numbers...a 41142G and a 41143G with a 2.312 CTR and 2.375 CTR respectively. Not even what that refers to but if available in red I want one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=8756&jsn=557
Here's what it looks like:
https://www.lmperformance.com/166029...ctr-black.html
There's two different part numbers...a 41142G and a 41143G with a 2.312 CTR and 2.375 CTR respectively. Not even what that refers to but if available in red I want one.
that is what I had installed on my truck.
I noticed a decided difference less rattles and bangs, and tighter feel in turns at speed.
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Joined: Dec 2018
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Who's done them, and how did you do it?
I was under the impression you had enough space to lift the motor as it sits to gain the room needed to do the swap. I did not have that kind of success.
I removed the 4 large 21mm (L&R) nuts securing the mounts to the cross member, loosened the 2 drivers mount 13mm bolts, I removed the 2 tranny mount 21mm nuts, I was only able to raise the engine a few inches. When I let it rest back down, it did not settle into the same place, I had to raise the pass side to re-center the engine back on the cross member. For now I just put it all back together.
It looks like from what I'm reading and seeing, the CAC pipes have to come off, the spider has to come off, possibly the starter, and front drive shaft too for jacking blocks Etc. And maybe the the transmission cross-member should be removed and the tail supported separately?
Funny, I only found instructions in the shop manual for the 5.4, and V10 mounts. I posted in the Excursion forum too, which is home...
I was under the impression you had enough space to lift the motor as it sits to gain the room needed to do the swap. I did not have that kind of success.
I removed the 4 large 21mm (L&R) nuts securing the mounts to the cross member, loosened the 2 drivers mount 13mm bolts, I removed the 2 tranny mount 21mm nuts, I was only able to raise the engine a few inches. When I let it rest back down, it did not settle into the same place, I had to raise the pass side to re-center the engine back on the cross member. For now I just put it all back together.
It looks like from what I'm reading and seeing, the CAC pipes have to come off, the spider has to come off, possibly the starter, and front drive shaft too for jacking blocks Etc. And maybe the the transmission cross-member should be removed and the tail supported separately?
Funny, I only found instructions in the shop manual for the 5.4, and V10 mounts. I posted in the Excursion forum too, which is home...
Were you using a hoist from the top or jacking it up from the bottom somehow? Pressing on the underside of the pan seems like a questionable idea to me. (Maybe it’s no big deal)
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 540
From: Rock Hill, SC
I put this on hold till I have the time to pull the engine completely. Just need to stop using the truck, I have had a bust camping schedule this year. I have a few more parts to collect. I already have a new OE oil pan, and the timing cover.
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when you put it back together though after not being able to get them out, you had it jacked up from the bottom or lifted from top with a hoist?
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA