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Hey guys, I just replaced my O2 sensor and TPS and was wondering if I should get some seafoam to run through it and clean it up, including a thing for the intake manifold, as it is hella crusty inside. (Im not going to take it off)
Also my coolant looks pretty eh, may get that cleaned up at some point.
Not in my experience. Pro-tip: pull the vacuum line to the brake booster and put it in the seafoam can and let the engine suck it all in, then turn engine off.
Not in my experience. Pro-tip: pull the vacuum line to the brake booster and put it in the seafoam can and let the engine suck it all in, then turn engine off.
Might I ask what putting it in the brake booster does?
Also the whole can, wow, I thought you put it in the fuel
Is there a trick to not stall or break anything?
Otherwise, sounds like that's what I'm gonna do, just gotta go get a can of the juice
Might I ask what putting it in the brake booster does?
You dont put sea foam in the brake booster... you use the vacuum hose off the brake booster to suck the sea foam into the engine. I dont suggest doing that because the brake booster uses a large diameter hose which may suck enough fluid to damage the engine.
Use a smaller hose like your Evap Canister hose that feeds directly into the intake manifold to give it a nice feed rate. You want to feed enough seafoam to cause the engine to begin running rough, but not too much that may hydrolock the engine.
Also the whole can, wow, I thought you put it in the fuel.
You can put seafoam in the gas tank or suck it into the intake manifold. Gas tank method cleans the injectors and alittle of the intake valve. Intake manifold method cleans the intake valves and some of the intake runners. It also does a better job of soaking everything down.
Use the whole can.
Is there a trick to not stall or break anything?
If youre using the intake manifold method, you can use a small ball-valve or needle valve to control the rate of the feed. I've also used a basket ball tire-inflater needle as a restriction to control the rate of fluid and it seemed appropriate.
Otherwise, sounds like that's what I'm gonna do, just gotta go get a can of the juice
Might I ask what putting it in the brake booster does?
You dont put sea foam in the brake booster... you use the vacuum hose off the brake booster to suck the sea foam into the engine. I dont suggest doing that because the brake booster uses a large diameter hose which may suck enough fluid to damage the engine.
Use a smaller hose like your Evap Canister hose that feeds directly into the intake manifold to give it a nice feed rate. You want to feed enough seafoam to cause the engine to begin running rough, but not too much that may hydrolock the engine.
Also the whole can, wow, I thought you put it in the fuel.
You can put seafoam in the gas tank or suck it into the intake manifold. Gas tank method cleans the injectors and alittle of the intake valve. Intake manifold method cleans the intake valves and some of the intake runners. It also does a better job of soaking everything down.
Use the whole can.
Is there a trick to not stall or break anything?
If youre using the intake manifold method, you can use a small ball-valve or needle valve to control the rate of the feed. I've also used a basket ball tire-inflater needle as a restriction to control the rate of fluid and it seemed appropriate.
Otherwise, sounds like that's what I'm gonna do, just gotta go get a can of the juice
All this talk of hydro locking and business has me a bit worried, as I have no way to fix that, nor do i want to do it to my first truck
the needle way seems like a pretty safe bet, so I'll probably try that
I assume you mean one of these
Here's what I'll do:
1. Get engine to op temp
2. Pull in Seafoam to manifold
3. Let run for like 10 seconds and shut off
4. Wait an hour or 2
5. Start (let warm up a little)
6. Drive it hard (manual, I'll just leave it in a lower gear)
I do none of that
Ford carb foam thru the plate
Ford injector cleaner through the rail
That is the cleaning procedure I and the Ford dealer use
Not easy
Cost 175 at the dealer 15 years ago, 375 now
The sauce is only about 25
Learn to do it yourself
I do none of that
Ford carb foam thru the plate
Ford injector cleaner through the rail
That is the cleaning procedure I and the Ford dealer use
Not easy
Cost 175 at the dealer 15 years ago, 375 now
The sauce is only about 25
Learn to do it yourself
I don't even have a garage, not even a concrete driveway, so easy is kinda what I'm hoping for. But I will keep that in mind, maybe I'll figure out the injectors one.
All this talk of hydro locking and business has me a bit worried, as I have no way to fix that, nor do i want to do it to my first truck
the needle way seems like a pretty safe bet, so I'll probably try that
I assume you mean one of these
Here's what I'll do:
1. Get engine to op temp
2. Pull in Seafoam to manifold
3. Let run for like 10 seconds and shut off
4. Wait an hour or 2
5. Start (let warm up a little)
6. Drive it hard (manual, I'll just leave it in a lower gear)
Yep. Thats it. push a 1/4" diameter rubber hose over the threaded part of the basket ball inflater needle and stick the needle into the sea foam. Find a 1/4" vacuum port on the intake manifold as close to the throttle body as possible and start up the engine. The manifold vacuum will suck the sea-foam into the engine.
I've used the Seafoam top end, combustion chamber cleaner and it seamed to work well. That is the one that comes in a aerosol can with the curved straw. The straw goes into the throttle body and the rubber intake duct goes back over top of it. You spray it in the intake with the engine running, manipulating the throttle to keep the engine running. After about 2/3 of the can is used you spray the last of it to choke the engine and cause it to stop. Let it sit for a little while and start it back up. The procedure is the same for aerosol or bulk liquid, but the aerosol can makes it easier to get it into the horizontal intake and control the application. Be prepared for the huge clouds of smoke out the tail pipe, it can be quite spectacular.
All this talk of hydro locking and business has me a bit worried, as I have no way to fix that, nor do i want to do it to my first truck
the needle way seems like a pretty safe bet, so I'll probably try that
I assume you mean one of these
Here's what I'll do:
1. Get engine to op temp
2. Pull in Seafoam to manifold
3. Let run for like 10 seconds and shut off
4. Wait an hour or 2
5. Start (let warm up a little)
6. Drive it hard (manual, I'll just leave it in a lower gear)
You don't need to wait an hour or two. If you read the can it tells you five minutes. Do not do this inside and make sure all your windows on the house are closed. Its gonna smoke like a freight train burning off all the carbon deposits.
I don't think you need to drive it hard either but you'll have a hard time not doing it depending on the volume of smoke that came out. The first time i did this to a vehicle i felt like i gained 30hp..
I fog the intake while running with carb cleaner or dump SF slowly until it bogs down for 30 seconds and turn off for an hour
Dump a can of SF in the tank and run it hard
If this dont work well to clean things up, Inspect plugs and do compression test while there
I put new motorcraft plugs in old ones still looked good (except one, which wasn't changed for some reason)
Was told engine was rebuilt before I bought it. It runs great, just needed some new sensors, was running pretty rich, just wanted to get some seafoam to clean up the intake manifold and stuff. Not needed, but seems like some good preventative maintenance.
The AMSOIL power foam stuff you can spray it into the throttle body while running it’s a foam stuff and you only wait 15 minutes after running that through to start it again but it’s more money since you’d pay shipping.
The AMSOIL power foam stuff you can spray it into the throttle body while running it’s a foam stuff and you only wait 15 minutes after running that through to start it again but it’s more money since you’d pay shipping.
I'm hoping to find either spray at Walmart, not really gonna order anything
old ones still looked good (except one, which wasn't changed for some reason)
