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I need some advice on how to reduce heat entering the cab. I’m down south with the heat easily hitting 100 degrees during the day.
My issue is I can feel hot air entering the cab from under the dash. I assume the heater box is warped/ damaged allowing this to happen, but nothing is really visible. I was going to remove the heater hoses that feed the heater core and see if that helps. I don’t want to remove the box, ( thinking of the next owner down the road).
Any suggestions how to handle this?
For the heater. My '62 has a valve to shut off the water that is screwed into the water pump. Yours may have a heater control valve in one of the heater lines. I believe you would also have a **** in the cab to do this. See what you have. The downside on my '62, if I shut off the valve, I also loose defrost/defoggiing. So if it's raining in the summer, my outside would be clean by my wipers, but the inside would need to be wiped.
Make sure all your openings from the engine to the cab are sealed.
Last thing is to try some heat shield in the cab. Under the dash as high as you can go all the way to under the seat. There are posts about heat shield and sound proofing here. Might look a few of them up. There is a brand that many people like to do this with,
For the heater. My '62 has a valve to shut off the water that is screwed into the water pump. Yours may have a heater control valve in one of the heater lines. I believe you would also have a **** in the cab to do this. See what you have. The downside on my '62, if I shut off the valve, I also loose defrost/defoggiing. So if it's raining in the summer, my outside would be clean by my wipers, but the inside would need to be wiped.
Make sure all your openings from the engine to the cab are sealed.
Last thing is to try some heat shield in the cab. Under the dash as high as you can go all the way to under the seat. There are posts about heat shield and sound proofing here. Might look a few of them up. There is a brand that many people like to do this with,
Hope this helps,
Tom
My truck has the valve in the heater hose to the heater core. It is frozen, I’m not sure if it’s stuck open or closed.
I am going to start with removing the heater hoses…
Ok…. I took some pictures to help on this.
this picture, it’s connected to the heater box and then to the kick panel part of the truck. What is it and what does it do? Is it letting hot outside/engine compartment air into the cab?
An expert on this system needs to answer this. But....
It should be allowing only fresh air into the heater box, not from under the engine hood. There may be a shutter/door to close it off. On my '62 the heater box is open to the cab. I have a vent door were your accordion hose connects to let fresh air in to the cab at your feet.
Might look at a parts list and see if that can be closed off with a control ****.
Snap, then post, some photos of the two heater hoses, where they come into the engine compartment from the heater core, please. And perhaps one or two of your heaters controls, as well.
Trucks that had the more ‘deluxe’ heater had a cable actuated valve in one of the heater hoses that could be operated via a cable from inside the cab. The budget one has to be turned either on or off , seasonally, by hand, from under the hood.
I seem to recall a member’s newly purchased truck, in which the previous owners solution to a bad heater control valve was to simply eliminate it. There was no way to turn off heated engine coolant from routing into the interior.
Snap, then post, some photos of the two heater hoses, where they come into the engine compartment from the heater core, please. And perhaps one or two of your heaters controls, as well.
Trucks that had the more ‘deluxe’ heater had a cable actuated valve in one of the heater hoses that could be operated via a cable from inside the cab. The budget one has to be turned either on or off , seasonally, by hand, from under the hood.
I seem to recall a member’s newly purchased truck, in which the previous owners solution to a bad heater control valve was to simply eliminate it. There was no way to turn off heated engine coolant from routing into the interior.
The control valve is frozen, I’m not sure if on or off. I’m going to remove the heater hoses and plug it off at the water pump.
The two control rods in the cab should be: pushed in = off. Yours look like they are in the off position. When the "temp" rod is pushed in, this closes the water valve. You should be able to determine if you're stuck open or closed by looking at the rod and cable position at the valve When the "heat" rod is pushed in, it closes a big flapper in the heater box near the tranny hump. your flapper and control cable may be out of adjustment, or the foam gasketing around the flapper may be toast, allowing air to flow through the system.
I would sooner simply replace the water valve with a new one, than monkey with the hoses - I think that's easier and will keep that engine compartment looking sharp and correct.
You can get a rebuild kit for the gaskets in the heater box, if they are toast. The heater box comes out pretty easily. Take car of the square-to-round bellows on the air input to the box. That original style is unobtanium
Since the heater core is located inside the cab there will always be heat from it even if valve is turned off. In the past, I would disconnect the hoses in the summer and then reconnect in the winter. In reality it would take at least 2 months into winter and many "reminders" from my wife that it needed to be reconnected. This year I opted for an easier solution. I added a second valve (same as the first, only flipped to be a little less obvious) so both can be turned off (or back on in the winter). There's still a bit of heat from the core but nothing that's intolerable. Even less of an issue with the ac running. As I've done with every old Ford truck I've owned, short of disconnecting hoses as previously mentioned, there's no way to completely stop the core from at least getting warm.
Be aware too that those valves can look like they are closed but after enough years the little flapper valve inside of them can completely rust away so even if it still acts like it is opening and closing it may never close because there is nothing left internally to close. I've taken off two of them that were not frozen open or closed but had no valve left at all. No way to turn off the heat once that happens until you replace the entire unit.
I ordered this. It’s made by Gates. I will pull the hoses off the heater core and stop the hot water from entering the cab.
I can then remove the heater box and make the necessary repairs to the entire system.
Mine did not have any type of valve when I got it. Added a standard plumbing manual ball valve. Just drove to work 90deg weather today. 45min 40mi...no heat from the heater box with the valve closed. Nice and toasty with it open. I have the standard heater box also.
When I remove the heater box to make the repairs, I assume a ton of outside air will enter the cab from the opening in the passenger side kick panel? Is there a way to stop that, or just a rag stuffed in it will do the trick?
Stuff a rag.
When you pull the unit, you'll likely spill a little coolant out of the core, onto the cab floor. If you've got carpet or something you want to keep clean and dry, stuff some large towels up under and behind the box, and lay some down on the floor. Maybe start with plastic off you have it.
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