Cyl Head Machine Work
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
Cyl Head Machine Work
I’ve got an engine that I’m wanting to start building for my truck. It’s mostly disassembled and has been setting in my shop for several years now. I’m going to try and start getting things going to build it a little at a time.
going to start with the heads because they’re off, and I can haul them to the machine shop in my car lol
I have what I feel like is a really stupid question because I’m ignorant when it comes to machine work.
the machine shop will inspect / test the heads for 100-130$… but I know I want to replace the springs and valve seals for sure.
do I replace the valve seals and springs before I let the shop inspect the heads or after?
going to start with the heads because they’re off, and I can haul them to the machine shop in my car lol
I have what I feel like is a really stupid question because I’m ignorant when it comes to machine work.
the machine shop will inspect / test the heads for 100-130$… but I know I want to replace the springs and valve seals for sure.
do I replace the valve seals and springs before I let the shop inspect the heads or after?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 1,337
From: Bahstun
IMO
send it and let them tell you whats wrong
they should hot tank and magnaflux with cups removed
deck plane head and exhaust if needed and check valve seat height and guide bores
Drill out the fuel banjos to next drill size and re seal oil rails and plugs
send it and let them tell you whats wrong
they should hot tank and magnaflux with cups removed
deck plane head and exhaust if needed and check valve seat height and guide bores
Drill out the fuel banjos to next drill size and re seal oil rails and plugs
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,514
Likes: 2,026
From: North Texas
Seals and springs last, install at proper height for correct seat pressure.
Budget all new valves and probably all seats. These heads have crap springs stock which means sloppy valve control with age. This beats seats and valves to hell.
Yes, hot tank and magnaflux before any work. Around here in TX it is about $50/hole for 2V heads plus parts.
Best I recall these have no guides, just the head. If that is ovated, you probably can sleeve them with bronze inserts. I forget the name but can find out if you need. Basically the old 'guide' is reamed oversize and the sleeve is installed making back to OE size.
Budget all new valves and probably all seats. These heads have crap springs stock which means sloppy valve control with age. This beats seats and valves to hell.
Yes, hot tank and magnaflux before any work. Around here in TX it is about $50/hole for 2V heads plus parts.
Best I recall these have no guides, just the head. If that is ovated, you probably can sleeve them with bronze inserts. I forget the name but can find out if you need. Basically the old 'guide' is reamed oversize and the sleeve is installed making back to OE size.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
Seals and springs last, install at proper height for correct seat pressure.
Budget all new valves and probably all seats. These heads have crap springs stock which means sloppy valve control with age. This beats seats and valves to hell.
Yes, hot tank and magnaflux before any work. Around here in TX it is about $50/hole for 2V heads plus parts.
Best I recall these have no guides, just the head. If that is ovated, you probably can sleeve them with bronze inserts. I forget the name but can find out if you need. Basically the old 'guide' is reamed oversize and the sleeve is installed making back to OE size.
Budget all new valves and probably all seats. These heads have crap springs stock which means sloppy valve control with age. This beats seats and valves to hell.
Yes, hot tank and magnaflux before any work. Around here in TX it is about $50/hole for 2V heads plus parts.
Best I recall these have no guides, just the head. If that is ovated, you probably can sleeve them with bronze inserts. I forget the name but can find out if you need. Basically the old 'guide' is reamed oversize and the sleeve is installed making back to OE size.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,514
Likes: 2,026
From: North Texas
Be prepared for the highest expense.
@z31freakify has rebuilt a few 7.3s recently. He can give you more specifics.
I would go smallest overbore for bottom end. Heck, I would even consider sleeving all eight and reusing stock pistons. Depends on cost. It is also way out of balance stock.
@z31freakify has rebuilt a few 7.3s recently. He can give you more specifics.
I would go smallest overbore for bottom end. Heck, I would even consider sleeving all eight and reusing stock pistons. Depends on cost. It is also way out of balance stock.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,431
Likes: 2,915
From: Reed Point, MT
I had two heads completely rebuilt 6 months ago.
New valves and seats as all the intakes were trash and sunk.... so why not do all the exhausts too while I was there. New bronze guides and just enough off of the deck to clean it up. I did the cups.
$2150.
New valves and seats as all the intakes were trash and sunk.... so why not do all the exhausts too while I was there. New bronze guides and just enough off of the deck to clean it up. I did the cups.
$2150.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,514
Likes: 2,026
From: North Texas
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Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
holy cow, for 2150$ in the heads alone I’d just about pay the 5500$ for a long block 😳😳😳
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 1,337
From: Bahstun
Cups don't have to be removed for rebuild but they should for magnaflux. Ome member recently did all that work only to find a crack in the head under the cup.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,269
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Price depends a lot on area, and what type of work is done to them. Usually a fully rebuild head with new valves, springs, valve guides, seat's, and clean up and resurfaced head with cost between $400-$600 per head depending on the quality of parts.
Then there's the refurbished type builds which reuse some original parts, like seats (unless cracked or too far worn down) valves (unless they are worn down making them useless) springs, then they cut them up to make them work like when it left the factory, which to my knowledge they shim the springs, cut the seats, remove some material from the top of the valve stem to compensate for the seat material being removed, they only install guides in the ones not to spec.
Usually these refurbishes cost between $150 to $300 per head. Sometimes you can get away with this type of rebuild, but I always recommend new valves, guides and springs when doing this type of rebuild
Then there's the refurbished type builds which reuse some original parts, like seats (unless cracked or too far worn down) valves (unless they are worn down making them useless) springs, then they cut them up to make them work like when it left the factory, which to my knowledge they shim the springs, cut the seats, remove some material from the top of the valve stem to compensate for the seat material being removed, they only install guides in the ones not to spec.
Usually these refurbishes cost between $150 to $300 per head. Sometimes you can get away with this type of rebuild, but I always recommend new valves, guides and springs when doing this type of rebuild
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,269
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
That idiot will be me, it was my fault though I told the machine shop to leave the cups in place, so when they checked for cracks that dam cup was hiding a crack the was up mid way the injector hole, lesson learned remove cups and install new ones don't cheap out like I did. That said my rebuild mill has been running flawlessly since the rebuild and changing the driver side head gain and re installing new head gaskets, again. Lol.
