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Houston water is drinkable in a pinch, but I prefer to filter it through a big zero water. Phoenix has really hard water, taste is eh too. The 01 Mexpedition came from there and took me a long time to clean that cooling system.
If seriously neglected, flush till clear. Evaporust it. I had to on the C4 and 300SE this year, before that was one of my BMW, Screw, and Mexpedition. That stuff is awesome for cooling system repair.
Also consider an inline filter. That will pretty much assure a spotless system after a few thousand miles.
Good ideas. Thanks bud. Yes we use a Pure filter on our water. Seems like it is much better. Shower head needs soaking in vinegar about every other month or it trickles out.
Basically, but this is an actual coolant filter base and filter. Wix filter is 24070, base is whatever I guess what cheap. Did 5/8" brass fittings. Looped on 4.9 for now, no heater core hooked up.
I would do outlet from block to inlet to filter, outlet to heater core inlet, then do heater outlet to block return.
Hopefully makes sense. Cleans up caca cooling systems like you would not believe. If normally maintained, probably okay but could run for a few months and pull off. You would be shocked at the **** that comes out of neglected ones!
From my experience, a stuck open thermostat will hit you for around 2 mpg fuel economy. You need to check what thermostat you put in there. I am not actually sure mine was stuck open, but it was 165 degrees. So either way, things never got fully warmed up. For a high school kid on a budget, you will be well served to get that thermostat changed out and save a few bucks at the fuel pump!
I installed a Napa brand thermostat the spec was 195 F start to open is 192 F. This was around beginning of February this year when I changed it. It was running for about 8 minutes at idle besides moving it to bring it to the garage. It started about 130 F after moving it, and climbed to 155 F and stayed around there for 3-5 minutes and I shut it off. My truck idles around 700 RPM. Drove home 40-45 minutes with a pit stop, and it was 195 when I got home. It is reaching temp driving, but I'm still concerned about it getting stuck at idle. I got 11mpg when I tested it before the timing was set, new tires, and new alignment. Probably around 12 if I'm lucky 13 I'd assume after that work. At idle speed without revving is that normal for it to get stuck around 155 F for a few minutes? The air temperature was 68 that day when I checked according to my phone. It was about 80 at home. Only got 3 stars but that's one person and they were comparing it to another one. Review did not mention anything about failing.
You could re-test the thermostat if you feel the need. Since it appears the engine does come up to proper temperature with highway driving you are probably fine keeping the thermostat you have.
Even if it works though, it uses liquid wax. When that liquid wax gets hot it expands and pushes the thermostat open, and when it cools down the spring closes it. That liquid wax gets hard over time, and it becomes less efficient at its job, so it’s a preventative maintenance type of thing.
You have the knowledge to make a lot of money in the automotive industry. There are millions of engines on the road and none of them get a thermostat every two years. I get maintenance and I am all for that, but a thermostat every two years is extreme.
With the advent of O2 sensors, once the O2 sensor[s] is heated up, the engine computer will adjust the fuel mixture to run properly. There are times where the lambda system is off [Full throttle]. The fuel economy should not be effected too much if the engine is running a few degrees lower than normal.
In these trucks the computer will not look at the O2 readings until the ECT sensor reports a minimum temperature. So, it will run on the pre set warm up program waiting for the coolant to get to temperature. Which is to say it will run rich.
Tell that to the new cars about every two years on a thermostat
The check engine lamp comes on and you replace it or it will not pass emissions
Its as simple as that
Happens about every two years on a mazda or new ford, bmw, mercedes etc
If you got an old beater with a heater, replace it when you want
You like pulling yours out neglected, rusty and broken?
Preventive maintenance baby
There is no such thing as a cheap cooling system related failure
Quote that!
A lot of older fords I see have voltage in the coolant (electrolysis) and rusty coolant
True, I have only changed mine once in my 94 with a Motorcraft and a lot of cars surely will go more than 5 years on a thermostat
I am saying that with a 302 ford truck, get good at it and used to it because this stat will jot be your last
As a Master Technician for Mercedes for 35+ years I can say with some experience that thermostats do not go bad every two years on any of their models. Yes, there are years where they do not last 10 years, but that is a manufacturing issue. The updated thermostats are fine. I have NEVER replaced a thermostat under warranty. That is a 4 years/50k warranty period. Not to say just because I have not seen it, it does not happen but if indeed this was a 2 year issue, it would be well known. I just do not see it. Love to see some facts to support your opinion.
If that is what you do, great but I tend to follow the facts I have seen in my career.
Yes, I leave batteries on cement, never had a problem with that either.
Yes, there is a code that be set if the engine does not get up to operating temperature.
Yes, if the engine is really cold, you are right. I am assuming we are only talking 10-20F lower.
Correct. I do not know what the min value is, but I expect it is a fair way short of 192°F.
Even after it starts looking at O2 data the lower coolant temps will drive a richer fuel trim then is otherwise necessary.
I do not know how the programing reconciles the competing inputs. I have had a serious lean condition driven by a faulty intake air temperature sensor and the computer did not correct the fuel trims to stop the lean condition nor did it report the lean condition as a trouble code. The values it saw were apparently within the expected range.
The computer will only do what it is programmed to do. So, it is highly possible, with what the computer 'saw' it was working as designed. If the computer does not know that the IAT sensor was reading wrong, it would not know that.
I have a factory MAF/CA 5.8 and I do not see any programming [on my Tweecer] that shows the IAT effects the fuel mixture. I certainly can believe that there is some adjustment if you have speed density.
My screen print shows what the ECU is looking for during warm up. Assuming that it's even close to a SD system, there is not a whole lot of fuel being added except for really cold temps and RPM's. Of course, I don't really know what I am doing with my Tweecer since I have only been playing with it for a year.
I’ve been doing some testing, drove the 40 minute drive again. It was 195-205. And then for local 10-15 minute drives the temp is 180-185. Sometimes 192. The most recent test i did was 5 minutes side streets, 10 minutes freeway. So rpm’s were 1100-1500 on side streets once I reached speed and on fwy it was 2200. I feel like that’s enough info to tell if something’s wrong. I have been testing it on the coolant hose right where it connects to the water outlet. If I read it in the middle of the hose it reads 160-170. It’s a harbor freight infrared tool. It matched what my auto shops Matco ones said. So it’s accurate.
I do not know how the programing reconciles the competing inputs. I have had a serious lean condition driven by a faulty intake air temperature sensor and the computer did not correct the fuel trims to stop the lean condition nor did it report the lean condition as a trouble code. The values it saw were apparently within the expected range.
I'm pretty sure the EEC-IV will only adjust timing based on IAT input, not fuel (as I recall from my days tinkering on my Fox Mustangs with a Tweecer).
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