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My grandson just broke off one of the transmission pan bolts on his 2016 F150. His birthday is Saturday, and I wanted to get him a "top of the line" bolt extraction kit. I know this topic has been discussed on the forum several times, but I'd like to get latest input from some of you pros. What should I purchase?
I have a similar kit in the 1st link below, only draw back is on some occasions the overall size of the extractors can be too large in diameter if the bolt is broken next to a housing or structure. When that happens I use the stick type in the second link. ICON from Harbor freight is identical to the snap-on see third link.
Start with basics. Look for a 10 or 12 piece set that includes left hand drill bits with extractors. Pay up and buy good quality. I like HF but NOT for something like this.
Using a left hand bit sometimes the bolt will come out while drilling it. Any time a broken bolt has to be center drilled in prep for an extractor, having a high quality center punch on hand is important. Getting the bolt punched and hole drilled on center is the biggest challenge of using extractors. Sometimes they still won't budge with an extractor so must be drilled out fully and heli-coiled or tapped out to next size, so either way taking time to get the initial hole drilled on center will save a lot of grief.
There are many variations in methodology when it comes to extracting broken bolts so one type of extractor will never apply to all applications. A heat source is often a helpful tool as well.
Well keep in mind that good, great or even awesome tools are rarely cheap tools. A long time ago I had some broken exhaust manifold bolts in my 4wd 77 F250. I was using cheap drill bits to prepare for the use of extractors. I was working on it with the motor still in the truck and the heads still on the motor.
I broke a cheap drill bit off in one and a cheap extractor off in the other...I now have a set of Norman drill bits and Norseman extractor set that I got on a walk in and over the counter purchase from Fastenall. AWESOME drill bits, crazy expansive, but drill like a hot knife thru butter. You also learn to use a center punch to make sure you are centered and drill straight, because with awesome drill bits you need to be dead center the 1st time.
These are the kind of drill bits you use with respect and you try to not even drop them. Or let the grandkids get access to them.
Well keep in mind that good, great or even awesome tools are rarely cheap tools. A long time ago I had some broken exhaust manifold bolts in my 4wd 77 F250. I was using cheap drill bits to prepare for the use of extractors. I was working on it with the motor still in the truck and the heads still on the motor.
I broke a cheap drill bit off in one and a cheap extractor off in the other...I now have a set of Norman drill bits and Norseman extractor set that I got on a walk in and over the counter purchase from Fastenall. AWESOME drill bits, crazy expansive, but drill like a hot knife thru butter. You also learn to use a center punch to make sure you are centered and drill straight, because with awesome drill bits you need to be dead center the 1st time.
These are the kind of drill bits you use with respect and you try to not even drop them. Or let the grandkids get access to them.
I just ordered the Norseman kit you listed in your 2nd Amazon link; kit will be here tomorrow. We will use it this weekend to remove that broken transmission pan bolt. Thanks for the recommendation.
I can only guess/wonder/hope/pray that the Norseman you get from Amazon are the same as what you get in a walk in over the counter purchase from Fastenall. Let up know how they work out.
Did the bolt break by over tightening or did it break trying to remove it? If the latter,it's seized in the hole,and the odds of getting it extracted without making a mess of things are low. Steel bolt in cast aluminum,bad combination. Be careful with the extractor as even the best ones will break. Wished I had some better advice but in the same situation,I ended up drilling and tapping for a 3/8 bolt.
Bolt broke on tightening. I believe the aforementioned issue with steel/aluminum corrosion was a contributing factor, even on the tightening sequence. My grandson is a USN airman, attached to a combat helicopter support squadron in Norfolk. He was doing the trans fluid change in the base auto hobby shop. He used their inch-pound Snapon torque wrench. He sent me a pic of the pan bolts, and several had obvious corrosion. I told him to spray with WD40 and dress them with a wire brush. Also told him to spray into the bolt cavities and then chase the threads with one of the clean bolts. The pan is back on, missing one bolt but it’s not leaking. He will be spending this weekend with me in Northern VA, and we’ll use my tools to remove that broken bolt. I have a bit more experience doing this, so hopefully we’ll get it out and install a new bolt.
X2 steel bolt in cast aluminum can be a bad combo. Spot on call on chase the threads and maybe use some anti-siez on the bolts. Are you dropping the pan again to get a clear view of the broke bolt?
X2 steel bolt in cast aluminum can be a bad combo. Spot on call on chase the threads and maybe use some anti-siez on the bolts. Are you dropping the pan again to get a clear view of the broke bolt?
I hope we won't have to drop the pan, but I won't know until I eyeball it. If we do drop the pan, I hope we can capture the fluid-- it's $12/qt.