Ignition module missing?
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4wd High
Joined: Sep 2023
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From: Iowa
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Perhaps one went bad and they just trusted points more? 
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 291
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From: Willamette Valley
I'm diggin' the 460. Is it a factory J-code?
I think I see a D6- engineering stamp on your intake which would definitely have had a DS2 ignition system originally (1976 &up).
I also think I see a home made ballast resistor set up on your inner fender, aft of where the DS2 ICM box was.
How's that Truck Avenger carb doin' ya? They are a mixed bag. lack of air bleeds for the secondary mains circuit is wonky, but you do get annular primaries!
What's the red box with heat fins on it near where the starter solenoid would be mounted? Electronic external voltage regulator? or some add on ignition module (can't tell).
What's
I think I see a D6- engineering stamp on your intake which would definitely have had a DS2 ignition system originally (1976 &up).
I also think I see a home made ballast resistor set up on your inner fender, aft of where the DS2 ICM box was.
How's that Truck Avenger carb doin' ya? They are a mixed bag. lack of air bleeds for the secondary mains circuit is wonky, but you do get annular primaries!
What's the red box with heat fins on it near where the starter solenoid would be mounted? Electronic external voltage regulator? or some add on ignition module (can't tell).
What's
Thread Starter
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4wd High
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Yeah there are several things on this truck that I'm trying to figure out. Seems like they tried to reduce electrical as much as possible by removing everything. That red, finned box is a second battery setup. It's not connected to anything. The spring resistor? looking thing is a complete unknown. Had an older guy mention it looked like his old trailer brake setup but I'm not sure. There's loose wires underneath the dash. I'm amazed that it runs at all honestly. That's actually what started this because the truck will run until it gets hot then just shuts off and won't restart until it cools. Started trying to test parts but it's missing half of them.
Last edited by Buellrider76; Sep 17, 2023 at 09:40 PM.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 291
Likes: 59
From: Willamette Valley
Yeah there are several things on this truck that I'm trying to figure out. Seems like they tried to reduce electrical as much as possible by removing everything. That red, finned box is a second battery setup. It's not connected to anything. The spring resistor? looking thing is a complete unknown. Had an older guy mention it looked like his old trailer brake setup but I'm not sure. There's loose wires underneath the dash. I'm amazed that it runs at all honestly. That's actually what started this because the truck will run until it gets hot then just shuts off and won't restart until it cools. Started trying to test parts but it's missing half of them.
http://fordification.net/tech/images...aster_1of9.png
So your immediate issue sounds to be be the hot shut off. For clarity, describe this. Is it a hard cut instantly (likely electrical, possibly including the coil) or does it do some death throes until it flat lines ( which could be fuel related).
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 291
Likes: 59
From: Willamette Valley
Also, check the voltage at your battery with key on engine off, then the voltage at the coil + terminal (KOnEOff), then both of those readings again at cold when running (KonEon), then at hot when it stalls.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
Yeah there are several things on this truck that I'm trying to figure out. Seems like they tried to reduce electrical as much as possible by removing everything. That red, finned box is a second battery setup. It's not connected to anything. The spring resistor? looking thing is a complete unknown. Had an older guy mention it looked like his old trailer brake setup but I'm not sure. There's loose wires underneath the dash. I'm amazed that it runs at all honestly. That's actually what started this because the truck will run until it gets hot then just shuts off and won't restart until it cools. Started trying to test parts but it's missing half of them.
The old controllers did not have 'fine" tuning for loaded and unloaded.
Where the jumper wire is looped would have the in & out wires on it.
There would be a cross bar type thing between the 2 springs.
Unloaded the bar would be at the far end from the wires reising the resistance so less power to the trailer brakes when unloaded.
Move it the other way when loaded and more power to trailer for braking.
New controllers all of this is built into it.
Maybe the wires under the dash where for the brake controller?
Dave ----
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4wd High
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Yes it was an old trailer brake resister.
The old controllers did not have 'fine" tuning for loaded and unloaded.
Where the jumper wire is looped would have the in & out wires on it.
There would be a cross bar type thing between the 2 springs.
Unloaded the bar would be at the far end from the wires reising the resistance so less power to the trailer brakes when unloaded.
Move it the other way when loaded and more power to trailer for braking.
New controllers all of this is built into it.
Maybe the wires under the dash where for the brake controller?
Dave ----
The old controllers did not have 'fine" tuning for loaded and unloaded.
Where the jumper wire is looped would have the in & out wires on it.
There would be a cross bar type thing between the 2 springs.
Unloaded the bar would be at the far end from the wires reising the resistance so less power to the trailer brakes when unloaded.
Move it the other way when loaded and more power to trailer for braking.
New controllers all of this is built into it.
Maybe the wires under the dash where for the brake controller?
Dave ----