Hey everyone this is my first post so bare with me here,

So I have an ‘81 F100 custom with a 302 In it paired to a C6, the motor has been freshly rebuilt with a 1980 block that’s bored 40 over, has different heads(can’t remember exact year) that has been machined to my cam specs with new valves, springs, etc. my problem is I just got my new cam and lifters put in the other day and followed a video online about setting the lifter pre load and did everything correct and got every sealed back up set #1 cylinder to TDC and sent my timing filled it with oil and ZDDP and went to fire it up and ran into some problems I’m not sure where to start with, when it first fired it shook a good bit but figured maybe that’s the slightly bigger cam so I continued with the break in and brought it up to about 2k rpm and the rpms just dropped back to about 1000 randomly even though I still had the pedal pushed so I shut it off and went and checked and didn’t see any leaks or anything wrong, tried again it fired and then shook really bad almost like it was missing really bad, I checked all plugs and wires and timing everything was good even tried changing firing order to no avail, since then I haven’t messed with it since I don’t want to wipe the new cam already and I’m stuck and not sure where to start since I can’t keep starting it and shutting it off. Any help or idea would be greatly appreciated.

 

Can we assume the carb is the same one that came off the old engine and ran well before the rebuild ? What about the fuel pump, was it the same known, good one ?

 

Yes, the carb is the original from the old motor it’s an edelbrock 4 barrel, and the fuel pump has been converted to an electric pump

 

I wonder if the electric fuel pump is giving to much fuel ?

Do you still have the mechanical fuel pump ? Seems I recall something like that issue a few month's back. I'm not a expert.

Hopefully one of the Dave's are Karl will chime in soon. "FuzzFace2" aka Dave G and Franklin2 aka Dave F, seem to check in often.

 

I was wondering that as well or maybe not enough, I don’t have the mechanical anymore since it was my 3rd one that went out on me I decided to convert it to electric, this is also my first full rebuild so I’m still learning a good bit here I’m no expert either.

 

We have learned to only buy parts from a trusted auto parts store. I like my local NAPA, buy their good fuel pump and put it on your engine, Don't buy the cheapest price part.

$39.00
https://www.https://www.google.com/s...ump&referer=v2

I see that link didn't work That's the mechanical fuel pump from NAPA.

 

I got mine from my local oreillys it’s an edelbrock pump with a Holley regulator on it, another question that I was wondering is would constantly starting and shutting off the engine wipe the cam? I read that on a forum and wasn’t sure if it was true or not.

 

This is giving me warning signs. If you have stock type heads, the lash is not adjustable. What type of heads do you have? Do they use bolts to bolt down the rocker arms? Or do they use nuts? With locks? Do you have guide plates on the heads?

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the line to the carb ?

 

it’s bolts that’s go through the rocker into the head and there was a video that I followed and all it said was get the lifters to the lowest position on the cam and then torque then to 23 ft-lbs. I did that and asked an old friend that builds motors if that correct and he said it was.

 

I do not even though I probably should.

 

Something like these bolts and rocker arms ? I'm a 340 Chrysler guy, that engine has a shaft with 5 bolts.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hr...-ford-windsor/

 

yep exactly like that.this is the only picture I have of them.

 

Thanks, I think Dave is asking if you are sure you were at the correct place on the cam when you tighten the bolts ? In post #8

That maybe something you want to verify.

 

I am 95% positive I was at the correct place I was at the flat part of the cam when I tightened them I did that for each cylinder 1-8