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Hey guys. I was driving the '52 Courier Sedan Delivery and noticed twice a large puff of white smoke coming from behind blowing past me at idle at a stop light. I got to where I was going and shut it down. Immediately it dumped all of its coolant. The source of the leak was a crappy radiator repair/patch job performed before I got the vehicle. I assume the pressure finally was finally too much for the crappy patch job. My question ... white smoke is bad, but could it have just been coolant headed back into the engine while the radiator was popping from the pressure? It doesn't necessarily mean blown gasket does it? I had it towed home and put water in it and fired it up. Let it idle for 20 or so seconds. Revved a few times. Idle. Rev. Repeat for about a minute. I shot video of the exhaust. No white smoke. Just light bluish when I rev (I assume that's crappy rings?) I appreciate your help/advice. I'm new to this and learning. Over the next couple of weeks I'm going to replace the radiator, drain the oil and check for coolant in it. Fill everything back up and try it out. Does this sound like a plan?
I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the blown head gasket theory. First, with a radiator leak, the fan will draw the coolant into the engine bay and onto hot parts, possibly creating the smoke you saw. Obviously, a new radiator is in order, so take care of that first.
Second, Flathead radiator caps are low pressure, around 4-7 psi. Be sure that your radiator cap isn't a more common modern pressure of 13 to 16 psi.
I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the blown head gasket theory. First, with a radiator leak, the fan will draw the coolant into the engine bay and onto hot parts, possibly creating the smoke you saw. Obviously, a new radiator is in order, so take care of that first.
Second, Flathead radiator caps are low pressure, around 4-7 psi. Be sure that your radiator cap isn't a more common modern pressure of 13 to 16 psi.
Radiator cap says 16lb. Why does the pressure need to be 4-7? Please educate me! lol
In short, Ford utilized low pressure systems all along until the mid 50s. The cooling system components were not intended nor designed for 16 psi and so if the pressure were to build, the components fail.
In short, Ford utilized low pressure systems all along until the mid 50s. The cooling system components were not intended nor designed for 16 psi and so if the pressure were to build, the components fail.
So if the replacement radiator says it comes with a 13lb cap, I should switch it with a 7lb when I replace the radiator? Thank you for your help.
Champion has many offerings, including stock mountable radiators for more modern engines that are higher PSI in addition to stock mountable for stock motors. I have heard that Champion is very responsive and so reaching out to them with your exact motor and vehicle will help sort through all the variants of rows, makeup and everything.
Stock caps were 4 psi, to protect the old style water pumps that had poor seals. There's no advantage to running a higher pressure cap, even on a radiator that is designed for 14+. 4 psi raises the boiling point to around 220, if your engine gets hotter than that you have a real problem.
Stock 48-56 truck caps, 41A-8100-C and 1T-8100-A, were 4 psi.
Stock 49-54 passenger vehicle (Like the sedan in question) caps, 0L-8100-A and 1M-8100-A were 7 psi. In 55, 12-15 psi caps, B8A-8100-A, C1UU-8100-A, and C2SZ-8100-A were used.
Stock 48-56 truck caps, 41A-8100-C and 1T-8100-A, were 4 psi.
Stock 49-54 passenger vehicle (Like the sedan in question) caps, 0L-8100-A and 1M-8100-A were 7 psi. In 55, 12-15 psi caps, B8A-8100-A, C1UU-8100-A, and C2SZ-8100-A were used.
So whatever radiator I go with, just don't go over 7 for my stock V8, right?
Stock caps were 4 psi, to protect the old style water pumps that had poor seals. There's no advantage to running a higher pressure cap, even on a radiator that is designed for 14+. 4 psi raises the boiling point to around 220, if your engine gets hotter than that you have a real problem.
"Raindrop, Heard a Pop, There is a Crack in My Flathead Block."
So whatever radiator I go with, just don't go over 7 for my stock V8, right?
I would attempt to source a replacement radiator that included the low pressure (4 to 7) cap - then there is no guessing game with neck style compatibility.
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