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I took off my core support this weekend and under the passenger side frame mouth found this rusty hole. I knew something wasn't gonna be good because I had to saw through the mount to remove it because the bolt was so rusted the head kept disentegrating. Looking for info on if there is a pre-made piece I can weld in, or if I just need to clean it up and weld some pieces in to just close it up. I still haven't gotten the driver side mount off(appears I have to saw through it?)
That's an easy fix, question is how much more rust do you have? I'd check it out good before I went too far.
LOL...I've already gone too far...to be honest we are emotionally connected to this truck but I never intended it to be a show truck anyways..I haven't had the cab or bed off, but have been under it many times and haven't seen anything troubling yet.
Really the rest looks ok...I think this happened at this point because of a battery leaking issue or something of that nature..maybe a leaking radiator at one point
Before I cut the driver's side out, I'd use it to map where my hole needs to be for the passenger side. Then I'd form my pieces to mend the passenger side along the top and maybe down the vertical side of the rail after cutting those ragged edges back to good straight metal edges. Weld my piece(s) in place, get my hole in there too ... then work on doing the same on the driver side needed, if needed. About the only thing ahead of that is the front bumper and any loads presented there. It's all accessible I see, so easy fix there. Main thing is try to keep the surface flush where it was on the top flange where the bushings rest, to aid in keeping all your body work aligned.
If you must build it up by plating over top, you can thin the bushings a like amount, but it would be some guess work as rubber will compress.
A leaking radiator leaking anti freeze with rust inhibitors is one thing, a radiator leaking water is another ... but a leaking battery ... is bad. A dead battery can freeze and bust, a dropped battery can bust too.
Before I cut the driver's side out, I'd use it to map where my hole needs to be for the passenger side. Then I'd form my pieces to mend the passenger side along the top and maybe down the vertical side of the rail after cutting those ragged edges back to good straight metal edges. Weld my piece(s) in place, get my hole in there too ... then work on doing the same on the driver side needed, if needed. About the only thing ahead of that is the front bumper and any loads presented there. It's all accessible I see, so easy fix there. Main thing is try to keep the surface flush where it was on the top flange where the bushings rest, to aid in keeping all your body work aligned.
If you must build it up by plating over top, you can thin the bushings a like amount, but it would be some guess work as rubber will compress.
A leaking radiator leaking anti freeze with rust inhibitors is one thing, a radiator leaking water is another ... but a leaking battery ... is bad. A dead battery can freeze and bust, a dropped battery can bust too.
It will definitely not be a perfect fix but I'm gonna do my best. LOL....My main concern will be getting the rust out..the fabrication won;t be the easiest for me.
As far as the driver's side, can I get the mount off without cutting through it?
A puller can be fashioned using a piece of 7/16"-14 threaded rod, washer, some 3" pipe with a plate on one end. It'll have to be short to fit within the frame flanges for a straight pull from below, but tall enough to pull the lower washer nut maybe an inch downwards. It might take 3-1/4" ID schedule 40 well pipe. Satelite antenna folks here used it to mount C-band dishes in yards, so there's a source. The fellow below used a coupling I think, but that one looks too long to fit.
The bushing steel parts are pressed together as installed. There are many threads here where guys measured and just made new from steel water pipe and washers from like "Lowe's". A single thick piece of steel bridged across two blocks of wood might do it inside that frame rail?
A puller can be fashioned using a piece of 7/16"-14 threaded rod, washer, some 3" pipe with a plate on one end. It'll have to be short to fit within the frame flanges for a straight pull from below, but tall enough to pull the lower washer nut maybe an inch downwards. It might take 3-1/4" ID schedule 40 well pipe. Satelite antenna folks here used it to mount C-band dishes in yards, so there's a source. The fellow below used a coupling I think, but that one looks too long to fit.
The bushing steel parts are pressed together as installed. There are many threads here where guys measured and just made new from steel water pipe and washers from like "Lowe's".
I'd say that with nothing in my way right now I am best off just cutting through it. LOL
Fix rusted out body mount holes with this product. When you are replacing body mount bushings and you discover the holes on your body mount brackets are rusted or thin, this product is for you. Just cut away bad metal and weld on the new frame saver.
2-3/4" OD
1-7/16" IDThis Product Fits the Following
1978, 1979 Ford Bronco
1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, Ford F100, F150, F250, F350
Fix rusted out body mount holes with this product. When you are replacing body mount bushings and you discover the holes on your body mount brackets are rusted or thin, this product is for you. Just cut away bad metal and weld on the new frame saver.
2-3/4" OD
1-7/16" IDThis Product Fits the Following
1978, 1979 Ford Bronco
1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, Ford F100, F150, F250, F350
Thanks...I saw these earlier..just ned to measure to see if I still have enough metal for the fit
X100 use the old one (still there) to figure out exactily where that replacement one needs to go. And yes since everything is out of the way, just sawzall it off. Cut above the frame and below the rubber bushing best ya can. Now the issue it that repair piece (as posted above) is NOT going to fit perfect, because you are missing more material than normal. Look into some Eastwood products to help kill and encapsulate it. Cut out the rust, do not cut any more than you have to. Then it is welding time, that is a frame rail, so a Harbor Freight 110V wire feed/stick welder is NOT going to do the trick. 220V stick or wire feed. That area supports your core support and in turn your complete front clip (height) and that equals the fender to door gaps. Fender to cowl gap. So measure measure measure. D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Lowerradiator support and lowerfront & rear cab mounts / Obsolete CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETEPARTS in Concord NC = 800-476-9653. PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX = 888-727-0418.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
------------------------------------------------------------------------- D3TZ-1000396-C.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Upperradiator support andupperfront and rear cab mounts / Obsolete PARTS INTERNATIONAL
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETEPARTS GREEN SALES CO.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS
X100 use the old one (still there) to figure out exactily where that replacement one needs to go. And yes since everything is out of the way, just sawzall it off. Cut above the frame and below the rubber bushing best ya can. Now the issue it that repair piece (as posted above) is NOT going to fit perfect, because you are missing more material than normal. Look into some Eastwood products to help kill and encapsulate it. Cut out the rust, do not cut any more than you have to. Then it is welding time, that is a frame rail, so a Harbor Freight 110V wire feed/stick welder is NOT going to do the trick. 220V stick or wire feed. That area supports your core support and in turn your complete front clip (height) and that equals the fender to door gaps. Fender to cowl gap. So measure measure measure. D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Lowerradiator support and lowerfront & rear cab mounts / Obsolete CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETEPARTS in Concord NC = 800-476-9653. PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX = 888-727-0418.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
------------------------------------------------------------------------- D3TZ-1000396-C.. Absorber (rubber cushion) - Upperradiator support andupperfront and rear cab mounts / Obsolete PARTS INTERNATIONAL
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETEPARTS GREEN SALES CO.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS
LOL.....Those diagrams and measurements now made me nervous...I feel good about it though....thanks for all the info
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