Leak repair plan
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 805
so you counted it? By rotating the axle in the air?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
Always easier to clean and reseal on a stand. If you have some good help, it is doable in a weekend to pull it on a Friday. Clean, assemble, reseal, etc and pop back into the frame easy enough.
If you have all that out, highly consider a mild cam upgrade while access is easy with some fresh valve springs and timing chain. Big power is available with that swap and the stock SD ECU will run it just fine. I know it is easy to say do X Y and Z all at once, but if you plan your upgrades and do them all at once you will save on chemicals, time, and such.
Haynes and Chiltons have good photos and lay terms for working on the stuff. Rockauto has copies of the factory manual for torque specifications, I typically use both as needed.
If you want to bum that plenum deal to pull the engine or hold it up, let me know. I used it to do my oil pan, pump, and pump shaft five or six years ago same time I did that HO camshaft.
If you have all that out, highly consider a mild cam upgrade while access is easy with some fresh valve springs and timing chain. Big power is available with that swap and the stock SD ECU will run it just fine. I know it is easy to say do X Y and Z all at once, but if you plan your upgrades and do them all at once you will save on chemicals, time, and such.
Haynes and Chiltons have good photos and lay terms for working on the stuff. Rockauto has copies of the factory manual for torque specifications, I typically use both as needed.
If you want to bum that plenum deal to pull the engine or hold it up, let me know. I used it to do my oil pan, pump, and pump shaft five or six years ago same time I did that HO camshaft.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
I haven’t done that yet. I went off of the rpm calculator website. I don’t know for sure it’s 4:10s but I’m pretty sure it is.
I think what I’m gonna do is save for it and slowly collect parts. Get a newer AOD from a 92-93 like you said. It will fit with no issues? And then learn to rebuild it with a shift kit and overbuild it to handle high horsepower. Once I get that done I’ll save to pay for the engine to be rebuilt and get a cam, headers, exhaust etc. Would those upgrades pass smog if I kept factory emissions? I’m keeping the EGR even if it didn’t need to be smogged since it cools cylinder temperatures. And if I went higher performance do they make aftermarket computers to run the engine if I went with better EFI and a good cam? If I get the engine rebuilt I want it to be able to make 300-350hp (if these engines can do that?) so I can keep with traffic with ease and have some fun with it. If I’m gonna pull the engine I’m gonna redo all of it. And I’d have to get a better axle then to handle higher hp right? This’ll take at least a year for me to get everything to do so since im a high schooler. And I’d need a summer job to pay for this stuff. I’d keep the 302 most likely. I’d rather have everything bolt up easy besides the EFI and computer stuff learning to do this the first time. But I don’t want to just pull the engine and trans to have them be worn out and crap on me a few years from now. And if I’m redoing it all I want to make it how I want it.
Maybe 275 if it’s a crazy amount of money to change the fuel system. I was reading right now on higher hp and it seems to take more than a computer and EFI to go above 275.
Always easier to clean and reseal on a stand. If you have some good help, it is doable in a weekend to pull it on a Friday. Clean, assemble, reseal, etc and pop back into the frame easy enough.
If you have all that out, highly consider a mild cam upgrade while access is easy with some fresh valve springs and timing chain. Big power is available with that swap and the stock SD ECU will run it just fine. I know it is easy to say do X Y and Z all at once, but if you plan your upgrades and do them all at once you will save on chemicals, time, and such.
Haynes and Chiltons have good photos and lay terms for working on the stuff. Rockauto has copies of the factory manual for torque specifications, I typically use both as needed.
If you want to bum that plenum deal to pull the engine or hold it up, let me know. I used it to do my oil pan, pump, and pump shaft five or six years ago same time I did that HO camshaft.
If you have all that out, highly consider a mild cam upgrade while access is easy with some fresh valve springs and timing chain. Big power is available with that swap and the stock SD ECU will run it just fine. I know it is easy to say do X Y and Z all at once, but if you plan your upgrades and do them all at once you will save on chemicals, time, and such.
Haynes and Chiltons have good photos and lay terms for working on the stuff. Rockauto has copies of the factory manual for torque specifications, I typically use both as needed.
If you want to bum that plenum deal to pull the engine or hold it up, let me know. I used it to do my oil pan, pump, and pump shaft five or six years ago same time I did that HO camshaft.
Maybe 275 if it’s a crazy amount of money to change the fuel system. I was reading right now on higher hp and it seems to take more than a computer and EFI to go above 275.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 805
I haven’t done that yet. I went off of the rpm calculator website. I don’t know for sure it’s 4:10s but I’m pretty sure it is.
I think what I’m gonna do is save for it and slowly collect parts. Get a newer AOD from a 92-93 like you said. It will fit with no issues? And then learn to rebuild it with a shift kit and overbuild it to handle high horsepower. Once I get that done I’ll save to pay for the engine to be rebuilt and get a cam, headers, exhaust etc. Would those upgrades pass smog if I kept factory emissions? I’m keeping the EGR even if it didn’t need to be smogged since it cools cylinder temperatures. And if I went higher performance do they make aftermarket computers to run the engine if I went with better EFI and a good cam? If I get the engine rebuilt I want it to be able to make 300-350hp (if these engines can do that?) so I can keep with traffic with ease and have some fun with it. If I’m gonna pull the engine I’m gonna redo all of it. And I’d have to get a better axle then to handle higher hp right? This’ll take at least a year for me to get everything to do so since im a high schooler. And I’d need a summer job to pay for this stuff. I’d keep the 302 most likely. I’d rather have everything bolt up easy besides the EFI and computer stuff learning to do this the first time. But I don’t want to just pull the engine and trans to have them be worn out and crap on me a few years from now. And if I’m redoing it all I want to make it how I want it.
Maybe 275 if it’s a crazy amount of money to change the fuel system. I was reading right now on higher hp and it seems to take more than a computer and EFI to go above 275.
I think what I’m gonna do is save for it and slowly collect parts. Get a newer AOD from a 92-93 like you said. It will fit with no issues? And then learn to rebuild it with a shift kit and overbuild it to handle high horsepower. Once I get that done I’ll save to pay for the engine to be rebuilt and get a cam, headers, exhaust etc. Would those upgrades pass smog if I kept factory emissions? I’m keeping the EGR even if it didn’t need to be smogged since it cools cylinder temperatures. And if I went higher performance do they make aftermarket computers to run the engine if I went with better EFI and a good cam? If I get the engine rebuilt I want it to be able to make 300-350hp (if these engines can do that?) so I can keep with traffic with ease and have some fun with it. If I’m gonna pull the engine I’m gonna redo all of it. And I’d have to get a better axle then to handle higher hp right? This’ll take at least a year for me to get everything to do so since im a high schooler. And I’d need a summer job to pay for this stuff. I’d keep the 302 most likely. I’d rather have everything bolt up easy besides the EFI and computer stuff learning to do this the first time. But I don’t want to just pull the engine and trans to have them be worn out and crap on me a few years from now. And if I’m redoing it all I want to make it how I want it.
Maybe 275 if it’s a crazy amount of money to change the fuel system. I was reading right now on higher hp and it seems to take more than a computer and EFI to go above 275.
WELL apparently some exploders and sport tracs had them
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