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If his engine uses a factory Load-o-Matic distributor, then it must be hooked up to the vacuum port on a holley 1904/1960, or an autolite(2100?). No other carb will produce the correct vacuum signal required for the load-0-matic ignition system.
If you wanna change the carb to anything other than stock, you need to replace the entire distributor. Typically a modified Ford 300 dizzy is used, but I tried that with poor results and very few people on the internet successfully did it and give a step-by-step of their work, and show truck running afterwards...
If you wanna change the carb to anything other than stock, you need to replace the entire distributor, or go pertronix? Not sure if that's a correct statement.
Pertronix systems do not eliminate/translate the stock advance mechanisms.
Bmoran4, thanks I was going to post the same thing, pertronix only changes the switching mechanism for coil saturation, it changes nothing mechanically with the dizzy.
You can change just about anything if your willing to do the extra work that goes with "Hot Rodding" any vehicle. What is the worst that can happen, you change the curve in the distributor and run strictly mechanical advance. Vacuum advance is not a necessary item for and engine to run good, others may disagree but what happens to vacuum when the carb butterflies slam open flooring the skinny pedal? I'll let it sit here for a bit. If want to try that Weber or GM carb go for it, it's not welded on, you can always take it back off.
What is the worst that can happen, you change the curve in the distributor and run strictly mechanical advance.
This advice seems more applicable to a GM or similar setup where the distributor has both mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms. The stock distributor has no mechanical advance, so disconnecting/removing the vacuum advance means there is no advance mechanism at all making it difficult for good running under a wide band of conditions/loads.
Sure, modifying/swapping for a mechanical advance distributor in tandem with the carburetor could potentially work.
If his engine uses a factory Load-o-Matic distributor, then it must be hooked up to the vacuum port on a holley 1904/1960, or an autolite(2100?). No other carb will produce the correct vacuum signal required for the load-0-matic ignition system.
If you wanna change the carb to anything other than stock, you need to replace the entire distributor. Typically a modified Ford 300 dizzy is used, but I tried that with poor results and very few people on the internet successfully did it and give a step-by-step of their work, and show truck running afterwards...
EDITED for accuracy. Thanks guys.
Just out of curiosity, what modifications are required on the 300 dizzy to make it work with the 215, or for a 223?
Just out of curiosity, what modifications are required on the 300 dizzy to make it work with the 215, or for a 223?
It's rather simple, and I had a HELLUVA time finding someone who'd help in my "small" town:
Get a Ford 300 dist from whatever era you personally choose, take the cog off. Get a 223 dist cog, bore it out to the correct size, install on 300 dist shaft, it should work.
I couldn't get mine to work because I was not only trying the dist for the first time with no idea if it'd work--I was also trying and unknown carb for the first time. Engine ran horribly if it ran at all, I gave it an hour and quit, never went back. I'll try again someday. for now my truck runs fine with original equipment.
I quit because it was easier to fix/live with what I had, than to keep plugging away at the myriad of issues with my 300 setup. Whats even funnier is that I "used" up all of my 223 dist's, The only one I got is on my truck. So I can't go back.