pick up groceries. haul kids to soccer practice. just usual truck stuff

 

Ah yeah wheels and tires are the big ticket.

Just stick with that stuff I said above. I would really consider a shorter and lighter 315/70/17 in 121.

 

OP, I know you said lift, but I believe I understand your focus as being larger tires. If not I apologize for the off topic post.

I’m assuming you have 18” wheels. Check out LT295/70r18. These are 34”, no rubbing with no lift and fill the wheel well nicely on the stock wheels. Big benefit is the relatively small amount of speedometer error with only a 3.3% diameter change. Your power is still there!

As an aside, your tire load rating also goes up.

There are some good pics in this thread. Clicky!

RidgewaySD and Joe T have some good level options if you’re not looking to spend a small fortune.

I, too was considering a lift (have done many vehicles over the years) but these just seemed to balance the truck for me. My bride can still climb in and I only have to jump a little bit to get up on the tailgate. My truck use case is very close to yours.

Im running the 295 size in a Michelin Defender LTX and my miles per gallon are higher than with the stock Goodyears. I have 3.55 gears.

Just a few thoughts. Have fun with it!

King

34”



35s for comparison.

 

I wouldn’t level it. I don’t like the leveled look and I don’t like that when it’s loaded or it’s towing, it makes the front end too high.

 

1 inch is still in the factory variance as that’s generally what snow plow springs add.

I know on the pre 20 trucks over 1 inch requires some trackbar attention. Since the 20 trucks sit 1/2” lower he can maybe do 1.5” if he looks into it.

I think *** draggers aka carolina squat is fugly too.

 

agreed. But that doesn’t mean I’d leave it stock in fear of being squatted.

For instance on my truck I’m planning on doing 2-2.5” front lift and then add a leaf in the rear to get about 1.5-2” rear lift. Then some 295/65s on the stock wheels.

will still have enough rake in the stance for towing but look pretty nice unloaded as well (hopefully).

 

I agree, but I would lift the front and the rear the same amount.

 

yeah I want to keep it close within a half inch or so. That way it’ll have some natural ability to squat without being nose high

then I was thinking of some sumos or timbrens to stay level even under heavier loads. But I’ve never used them or had experience with them so I still have some research to do

 

I’ve had a Carli kit(every option) on my 2020 for two years(60,000 miles).

Its ok but if I were to do it again I wouldnt go with a Carli kit.

Look into One Up Off-road. It seems he really has these fords figured out and what to do to make them ride nice on the highway also. The Carli stuff is great off-road but the highway ride suffers some.

Call them and tell Dave what you are looking to achieve, he will have all the time in the world for you and he doesn’t try to up sell you his products. I’ve even had him recommend other products if that’s what he thinks will fit my application better.

That’s were I would start if it were me.

Which ever way you decide to go make sure you do a lot of research. It’s very easy to make these trucks not ride good(even worse than factory) but just throwing a set of spacers in. Everything that changes will effect the geometry of something else. The track bar and drag link alignment in relation to each other is very important as well as castor.

These trucks come with very little castor from the factor as it is, then if you lift the front any more from stock without doing something to increase castor it only makes it worse. Castor shim ball joint bushings are more of a bandaid.

I could go on forever about these ford front ends… like I said, do your research and get different opinions.