Hello,

My truck is a 97 F350 with 209k miles. It is consuming more and more oil. The only visible leak is from the CCV doghouse. It drips down the valve cover and runs down by the oil filter housing. It smokes blue for a minute on startup but clears up. The turbo has less than 10k miles on it.

It has always consumed quite a bit of oil. With the CCV straight to the atmosphere I was adding no more than a quart every 1500 miles. I took off the CCV mod and put on a catch can that runs into the intake. During a 2k mile trip to Montana I added a quart every 1000 miles. On a 4k mile trip to Florida I added a quart every 1000 miles. The last 700 miles I added 3 quarts.

On the way to Montana I lost an injector solenoid screw. I had the injector replaced. It was running good after the injector was repaired. On the trip to Florida it started rocking at idle after long trips on the highway. It even stalled once at a drive through. It starts easily and idles pretty good when cold. I think the CPS is starting to go bad hopefully not a big deal, but the oil consumption scares me.

My plan is to swap out the CPS and check the injector o rings. If I don't see anything I am going to do a compression test. If it fails I am shopping for a long block. Hopefully it won't get that far.

Does anyone have a recommendation/ part number for a budget diesel compression tester with a 7.3 adapter?

It has some blow by. But I don't think its bad enough for a rebuild. Here is a link to a video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/uR-kTHf9dmM?feature=share

 

If injector o rings are "good" then there's a chance the internal Seals on the injectors are bad then its time to rebuild them, might as well upgrade them to something more peppier, I like my 160/0 but I do tow heavy with my truck at times.

Check Rosewood Diesel if you decide to rebuild them


As for compression it has some but not too bad, but check compression before dumping any money on injectors


​​​​​​Here's what bad blow by looks like.


https://youtube.com/shorts/CmaU-eX6C...fRswssC_F_IOCt


This was on my 00 f250 with low compression and broken cocked up piston rings. Now I have a rebuild on it.

 

I forgot to mention it has rosewood 160cc 30 over injectors. The internal seals should be ok. They have 20k-30k miles on them. But, I lost an injector solenoid screw one one last month so you never know. I had to wait in Casper WY for 5 days for them to ship one out. It was too bad I missed a good vacation for a $.50 screw. I bought a spare. Good idea to carry a spare injector if you are using modified ones.

Turns out I was running the grey CPS that has a recall. Could be causing some problems. I ordered a new one should be here tomorrow.

 

My '96 uses 1gal in 1000 miles. Yes, uses! I have no external leaks since repairing all things like that.

Sounds like maybe your turbocharger is letting go

 

The turbo has less than 10k miles on it. I will check the exhaust for signs of oil though.

 

No external leaks?

 

Small leak from the doghouse that pools up on the valve cover and sometimes spills over onto the left side of the motor. It has been that way for a long time. Oil never really hits the floor. I wipe it up a couple times a year. No other leaks in the valley or anywhere else. It is very clean.

This thread might turn into an engine rebuild thread. I spoke with Bill at Mountain High Machinist. He sounded like he did good work. He estimated $4k for machining and balancing with no assembly. I hope to get a couple options before I pay 4k for machining and balancing.

Anyone have any suggestions in the Denver area?

 

Start with diagnosis. Forscan will let you do contribution test much cheaper than compression tester and you can do so much more with it. Good luck

 

Hey Thanks for the heads up. Here is what I know:

The mechanic in Casper ran a contribution test with his scanner. #3 and #8 failed. He saw a CPS code but couldn't tell me when it was from.

I checked for error codes with forescan on my way home from Florida before changing the CPS. No error codes.

Forescan contribution test today passed (after the new CPS).

 

Nothing beats compression test, as these engines run good with low compression (like my 00 did before a piston ring let loose.

If you decide on a rebuild, upgrade the valve springs to 910-16 comp cams and install new valves, buy a weldable oil dip stick adapter from CPaddict. And if you haven't already add E fuel, or if you can get your hands on a 99-03 7.3 super duty timing cover and fuel system including engine fuel lines, fittings etc on the cheap do it.

 

Hello,

Looks like this is going to turn into an engine rebuild thread.

Lots of local shops use Mountain High Machine. The owner has the reputation for being really meticulous with the machining and balancing. He gave me a ball park estimate of $4000 for the machining and balancing no parts or assembly. Seemed high.

Hy Performance Engines in Tennessee would machine and balance for about $2000. I would need to ship but it might be cheaper in the long run.

Any recommendations for a machinist would be greatly appreciated. I can drive from Cheyenne WY to Pueblo Colorado to drop the parts off.

Compression Test Numbers:
1 320
2 330
3 320
4 290
5 360
6 320
7 290
8 340

 

Interesting both rear cylinders are lower than the rest. My No 8 is around 200psi now. But at 290psi, I figure it would still run decent.

Balancing is not a fast job, it is very labor intensive. @427 fordman did his and showed that these mills are way out of balance.

Going for the cheapest option is never a choice I like to make unless all options have been exhausted.

 

Sorry, I made a mistake listing the compression numbers. 7 and 8 were switched. Both 290# are on the passenger side. I wanted to check for low numbers in the front or the rear cylinders because I am running a dead head fuel system.

Things are very expensive in Denver. From rent to Chinese food. The machinist is TN has a good reputation. He did the work in this rebuild thread:
https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...1375833/page-2

Compression Test Numbers:
1 320
2 330
3 320
4 290
5 360
6 320
7 290
8 340

 

Was the motor dusted? What air filter is on it, just out of curiosity?

 

It has a big one like you would buy at riff raff. Not sure what you mean by Dusted.