Thanks for the info on the pump and hoses. Im going to try to install the o ring today. I had to get a bigger set of snap ring pliers, and some permatex for the cover of the drive gear bolt. Im just going to install the hoses that were on it. Fixing the pump is not a gaurentee that the truck is going to run right. The nice weather is running out, I dont want to have to be out in the cold working on this truck. I will keep you guys in the loop.

 

What injectors do you have?

Could it be a Stealth 21 degree pump??

 

The pump is in the vice, i used a clamp to release the snap ring now the back plate is giving me a fight for my life. i had two sets of picks (i can never find what i need when i need it) but they are lost in the garage somewhere. I dont have a good suction cup either. i was able to clean out the grove with a hack saw blade, but the rain is stopping me now. another trip to harbor freight i guess to buy another set of picks. i have some photos but im having trouble uploading tham to the computer, and the phone is hard to upload from. thanks,

 

 

Looking good so far!

Got pics of the HPOP lines? If originals they should be replaced before they blow and strand you on the road.

 

something is not right inside the pump. the end cap came right off once the oil drained from it, i believe the oil was creating a vacuum holding the plate in place. the old o ring looked ok to me. i installed the new o ring and the snap ring did not want to seat itself deep enough. i assume this is why it was leaking in the fist place. I had to put it in a time out, because i lack patience. this morning im going to give it a good look and see what is holding the snap ring from seating into the groove completely. i will take some photos and keep everybody in the loop. one oil line is a upgrade and the other is original.
im done spending money on this till i see if this fixes the shutting off problem. if the truck runs and seems good then i will throw money at it if not maybe a different motor.

 

Original o ring in place

 

I just had a revelation. Look at number 28 in this thread. see how the snap ring is not seated in place? thats exactly where the oil leak was. now I have to figure out why the snap ring wont seat. im pretty sure the grove was clean. i have a snap ring collection, if i can find it im going to try to install a new snap ring and see what it looks like. at least im getting closer.

 

Most snap rings have a chamfer that you want facing out/away from the item being retained. Use a magnifying glass or look really closely in good lighting to make sure you're facing the right way.

Good luck!

 

snap ring is in, im pretty sure the snap ring is seated. right. I ordered a reseal for the fuel bowl, but its not here so i put the truck back together. no leaks. now the truck wont start. no smoke at the tail pipe. the upper oil tank is full too. when its light out im going to open the fuel bowl and make sure its filled to the top. all the wires are connected, all the hoses are hooked up. no leaks that i can tell when cranking. Im sure its something stupid i did. I hope i didn't damage the pump trying to get the o ring and snap ring into place. I will keep you guys in the loop.

 

I definitely should have mentioned it's a good idea to put the batteries on a charger so you have plenty of power to prime the oil system. It can take a long time to build the pressure back up in the HP rails. Any auto parts store will charge your batteries if you don't have a charger. You can also hook one onto your batteries in the truck and it will charge both at once.

I even disconnect the glow plugs from the glow plug relay until pressure is built back up. Yesterday I was priming an engine and it took maybe a total of 90 seconds of cranking to prime both low and high pressure systems, but I had a lot more taken apart than you did.

Don't crank for more than 10-15 seconds at a time or you'll burn your starter out or toast your batteries. Give it 15-20 minutes (yeah, minutes) to cool between cranks. It's helpful if you have a computer with an ELM327 and Forscan to watch your ICP voltage/psi.

Meanwhile make triple sure your IPR is plugged in. That one can hide down there in the dark.

After you're sure it's primed, if you haven't already, rule out the ICP by uplugging it.

 

Today's update, i had the battery's on a trickle charge all night. i opened the fuel filter housing to find it holds pressure overnight and got sprayed in the face with fresh clean diesel. oil is full, turned on the key gave the glow plugs 30 seconds, and cranked it. The engine turned over, the oil pressure came right up on the gage, but nothing, no smoke, didn't even try to fire. I checked every wire and connector. all connectors were on and tight. i tried to fire it with the ICP disconnected, and still nothing. The trickle charger is on it and will be left on overnight. Im going to ask a friend with a scan tool to come over this weekend any thoughts or other ideas?
What do i need to look for with the scan tool?
What should the HPOP put out when cranking? (i read a thread about it somewhere)
Thank you for taking your time to help me.
I know stuff about welding equipment if anybody has any questions.

 

My fuel pressure will drop back to zero once the pump kicks off. So it kind of surprises me that it would spray you. But I don’t think I’ve ever removed the lid without at least cracking the bowl drain first.

Did you have the bowl open while it was out?
The standpipe inside the bowl has a little safety valve inside. It’s to prevent someone from running without a filter. Anyhow, the valve can get turned in such a way that it won’t allow fuel into the pipe (out to injectors). The bowl would still have pressure but the injectors wouldn’t.

Not saying that’s your issue but wondering if you’ve touched the standpipe lately.

No way you put the EBPV connector on the IPR is there? They are the same connector type.

 

i did not open the filter housing while it was out. i think all the sensors have a different connector so i think its impossible to connect the wrong connector to the wrong sensor. thank you.

 

The IPR and EBPV are the same connector. But the EBPV goes in the back under the turbo. People on the forum have had them swapped before.

If you didn’t disconnect anything at the turbo then this isn’t a possible issue though.