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Hi all. Somewhat of a newbie here. '67 F250 RWD has been starting and running, ever since I dropped an engine in it last year. I ended up putting an aftermarket stereo in it that was "always on". Eventually, it managed to run the battery down. Two days ago I jump started it without any issue. However, when I went to start it again, nothing happened. I disconnected the stereo completely, and grabbed the jumper cables. This time, however, when I put the cables on the truck, it started turning over. It did this every single time. I cycled the ignition key back and forth a few times and tried it again. I bought a new cylinder because there have been a couple times when turning off the key, didn't shut off the engine. Truck still turned over but would not start. I had a new ignition cylinder and key set, so I swapped it out. This time, when I put the cables on, it didn't try to turn over, but it arced super bad, every single time. I'm kind of at a loss. The starter relay next to the battery is only a year old, but could it possibly be stuck? Has anyone had this succession of issues? I checked all connections and all seemed to be tight, so I don't know what changed. Any ideas?
Sounds like you've managed to weld the contactor together inside the starter solenoid. Check for continuity from the battery side to the starter side with the battery disconnected. It should be an open circuit. By continuing to try to start it you may have burned up the starter. If the solenoid has a short between battery in and starter out (the big posts) it must be replaced. With a full charge the starter may now spin but if it doesn't spin right away with a new solenoid, turn the key off immediately or you'll weld another solenoid. If the starter doesn't spin, disconnect the starter from the solenoid and turn the key to start. You should hear the solenoid engage. If you have a helper check continuity across the big terminals with and without the starter switch engaged.
Repeated attempts to start with a compromised battery at low voltage can lead to very high currents that will melt or fuse anything in its path. Run a battery tender when not in use or disconnect the stereo with a switch. You'll lose your presets but prevent melt downs.
Sounds like you've managed to weld the contactor together inside the starter solenoid. Check for continuity from the battery side to the starter side with the battery disconnected. It should be an open circuit. By continuing to try to start it you may have burned up the starter. If the solenoid has a short between battery in and starter out (the big posts) it must be replaced. With a full charge the starter may now spin but if it doesn't spin right away with a new solenoid, turn the key off immediately or you'll weld another solenoid. If the starter doesn't spin, disconnect the starter from the solenoid and turn the key to start. You should hear the solenoid engage. If you have a helper check continuity across the big terminals with and without the starter switch engaged.
Repeated attempts to start with a compromised battery at low voltage can lead to very high currents that will melt or fuse anything in its path. Run a battery tender when not in use or disconnect the stereo with a switch. You'll lose your presets but prevent melt downs.
Absolute genius! Replaced the Starter Solenoid, charged the battery off of the truck, and it started right up! I was hoping it wasn’t going to be something complex or require trying to find a part that’s practically nonexistent.
The quick fix is to tap on the solenoid with a hammer to dislodge it. But, if it stuck once it will stick again - usually just as the engine starts and then the starter won't disengage. Replacing it was the right move. Glad the starter survived.