Steering popping
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
I will crawl under again tonight and see if there are any grease fittings on the axle shafts.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 803
Likes: 103
You can check the steering shaft pass thru bearing by grabbing the top and bottom of the steering wheel and push/pull with your hands. If u feel/hear the tapping clicking popping, the. The pass thru bearing/bushing & steering shaft are bad.
replacing it is not too terrible. Not a fun job by any means.
remove the left front wheel well. And the. Access is available. The shaft does collapse and slide into itself. 3 bolts in the pass thru bushing. 8mm maybe. And then 10mm at the top and bottom of the shaft.
the worst part is the wheel well liner bc of all the push pins where the wiring harness is attached.
replacing it is not too terrible. Not a fun job by any means.
remove the left front wheel well. And the. Access is available. The shaft does collapse and slide into itself. 3 bolts in the pass thru bushing. 8mm maybe. And then 10mm at the top and bottom of the shaft.
the worst part is the wheel well liner bc of all the push pins where the wiring harness is attached.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
I had a clunk or pop on my 2018, but mine issue was at the opposite end of the track bar. My bushing was fine but the ball joint on the track bar was slightly bad. When stopped, if you turn the wheel quick left and right, does it pop/clunk? That's what mine did. Had wife turn wheel back and forth slightly as I was underneath touching each ball joint to check for excess play.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
I did that trick with the steering wheel to see if the intermediate shaft bushing may be failing and it is very tight and I don't see anything wrong with it. So now I am suspecting the track bar. I think you guys might be on to something. I know this is a very common issue on Jeeps and Ram trucks with solid front axles and the symptoms really do point to that. So now the question is do I spend my $200 deductible to get the dealership to replace it with a factory one? Or do I spend the $200 on the Rough Country aftermarket one?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 8,639
Likes: 2,433
I did that trick with the steering wheel to see if the intermediate shaft bushing may be failing and it is very tight and I don't see anything wrong with it. So now I am suspecting the track bar. I think you guys might be on to something. I know this is a very common issue on Jeeps and Ram trucks with solid front axles and the symptoms really do point to that. So now the question is do I spend my $200 deductible to get the dealership to replace it with a factory one? Or do I spend the $200 on the Rough Country aftermarket one?
Have you ruled out shocks?
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 435
Likes: 140
I did that trick with the steering wheel to see if the intermediate shaft bushing may be failing and it is very tight and I don't see anything wrong with it. So now I am suspecting the track bar. I think you guys might be on to something. I know this is a very common issue on Jeeps and Ram trucks with solid front axles and the symptoms really do point to that. So now the question is do I spend my $200 deductible to get the dealership to replace it with a factory one? Or do I spend the $200 on the Rough Country aftermarket one?
(if it’s not the bushing but it’s the ball joint, then the trackbar downs need changed at all). I had my shop replace the track bar ball joint with a kryptonite ball joint.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
So today I had my son turn the steering wheel back and forth while I was under the truck. The track bar joints are fine. But, the drag link joints have noticeable play at both ends. I can actually watch the joints move up and down as he turns the wheel. The pitman arm end is worse, but the spindle end does have play also.
Makes sense why I feel it in the steering wheel! Looks like I get to use my extended warranty right off the bat.
Makes sense why I feel it in the steering wheel! Looks like I get to use my extended warranty right off the bat.
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
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Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
So the drag link did need replacing. But, it wasn't the cure for the pop in the steering wheel.
I totally cured the steering wheel sensation yesterday by installing a new lower steering intermediate shaft.
I totally cured the steering wheel sensation yesterday by installing a new lower steering intermediate shaft.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 283
Did you do it yourself? Is it much of a job?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
So on a gas truck it would be a cake walk. On a diesel truck it is harder. What I did was use a lot of extensions connected to reach the two bolts from under the hood. Upper one is 13mm, lower is 10mm. Once the two bolts are loose, I reached through the wheel well and removed the bolts by hand. You have to totally remove both of them. Once you do that, you can slide the shaft out by hand, put the new one in, and get the bolts started again. Then go through under the hood with the extensions on the ratchet to tighten.
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
4wd Low
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 12
Likes: 7
From: MA
Loctite?
So on a gas truck it would be a cake walk. On a diesel truck it is harder. What I did was use a lot of extensions connected to reach the two bolts from under the hood. Upper one is 13mm, lower is 10mm. Once the two bolts are loose, I reached through the wheel well and removed the bolts by hand. You have to totally remove both of them. Once you do that, you can slide the shaft out by hand, put the new one in, and get the bolts started again. Then go through under the hood with the extensions on the ratchet to tighten.
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
https://youtu.be/Fay32PzoyF4
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
https://youtu.be/Fay32PzoyF4
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1,016
From: Central KY
Probably not a bad idea if the correct Loctite is used. I didn't notice any thread locker on the bolts from factory installation. So I didn't put any on when I reinstalled. But I may do that soon.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 283
So on a gas truck it would be a cake walk. On a diesel truck it is harder. What I did was use a lot of extensions connected to reach the two bolts from under the hood. Upper one is 13mm, lower is 10mm. Once the two bolts are loose, I reached through the wheel well and removed the bolts by hand. You have to totally remove both of them. Once you do that, you can slide the shaft out by hand, put the new one in, and get the bolts started again. Then go through under the hood with the extensions on the ratchet to tighten.
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
https://youtu.be/Fay32PzoyF4
Make *certain* that you get the new intermediate shaft all the way onto the main shaft and steering box shaft, and tighten it well. You do NOT want this part coming loose while you're driving.
I shot a quick video when I did it. Not sure if this link is active yet or not, but it will be soon:
https://youtu.be/Fay32PzoyF4