Front Axle Service
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 75
Likes: 28
Front Axle Service
Good Morning,
My Vacuum lock hubs have seemed to quit working in the past 6 months. I’m wanting to take apart everything around the outer ends of the front axle and rebuild all the wear parts.
I’m working on building a list of all the parts I need. I’m not planning on changing the Unit Bearings or the stub shafts unless they’re damaged. Where I’m gonna be doing the work has spares, but I don’t think my truck has any issues.
Any words of advice? Or if anyone has a parts list that would be greatly appreciated!
Side note, I’m doing my diff fluid at this time. Anyone know off hand how much it takes? I’ve seen everything from 1.5 to 5 quarts online.
75w-140, right?
My Vacuum lock hubs have seemed to quit working in the past 6 months. I’m wanting to take apart everything around the outer ends of the front axle and rebuild all the wear parts.
I’m working on building a list of all the parts I need. I’m not planning on changing the Unit Bearings or the stub shafts unless they’re damaged. Where I’m gonna be doing the work has spares, but I don’t think my truck has any issues.
Any words of advice? Or if anyone has a parts list that would be greatly appreciated!
Side note, I’m doing my diff fluid at this time. Anyone know off hand how much it takes? I’ve seen everything from 1.5 to 5 quarts online.
75w-140, right?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,110
Likes: 4,715
From: Henderson, NV
Good Morning,
My Vacuum lock hubs have seemed to quit working in the past 6 months. I’m wanting to take apart everything around the outer ends of the front axle and rebuild all the wear parts.
I’m working on building a list of all the parts I need. I’m not planning on changing the Unit Bearings or the stub shafts unless they’re damaged. Where I’m gonna be doing the work has spares, but I don’t think my truck has any issues.
Any words of advice? Or if anyone has a parts list that would be greatly appreciated!
Side note, I’m doing my diff fluid at this time. Anyone know off hand how much it takes? I’ve seen everything from 1.5 to 5 quarts online.
75w-140, right?
My Vacuum lock hubs have seemed to quit working in the past 6 months. I’m wanting to take apart everything around the outer ends of the front axle and rebuild all the wear parts.
I’m working on building a list of all the parts I need. I’m not planning on changing the Unit Bearings or the stub shafts unless they’re damaged. Where I’m gonna be doing the work has spares, but I don’t think my truck has any issues.
Any words of advice? Or if anyone has a parts list that would be greatly appreciated!
Side note, I’m doing my diff fluid at this time. Anyone know off hand how much it takes? I’ve seen everything from 1.5 to 5 quarts online.
75w-140, right?
Not many parts to replace if you do not plan to replace the unit bearings. The knuckle seals I told you about already. You may or may not want to replace the dust shield (some call it a seal. It doesn't really seal anything.) that goes on the inner side of the shafts up against the axle tube. Those things disintegrate quickly into rubber hula hoops around the shaft. How is the steering linkage? I will come back and add part numbers as I find them.
eBay knuckle seal and dust seal/shield set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18579808999...3ABFBMsOSl8rti
See the attached PDF for lubricant quantity. I run Schaeffer 293 Supreme 75W-90 as recommended by them over the 751M.
https://www.schaefferoil.com/2937590-gearlube.html
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 75
Likes: 28
If the auto hubs quit working, there is a good chance your knuckle seals and/or the flex lines from frame to knuckle have failed. In any event, the manual calls for the knuckle seals to be replaced any time the front axle is serviced. Do an end-to-end check for vacuum leaks in the line from the vacuum reservoir, through the vacuum solenoid valve all the way to the knuckles though. Those vacuum lines tend to get crispy with age.
Not many parts to replace if you do not plan to replace the unit bearings. The knuckle seals I told you about already. You may or may not want to replace the dust shield (some call it a seal. It doesn't really seal anything.) that goes on the inner side of the shafts up against the axle tube. Those things disintegrate quickly into rubber hula hoops around the shaft. How is the steering linkage? I will come back and add part numbers as I find them.
eBay knuckle seal and dust seal/shield set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18579808999...3ABFBMsOSl8rti
See the attached PDF for lubricant quantity. I run Schaeffer 293 Supreme 75W-90 as recommended by them over the 751M.
https://www.schaefferoil.com/2937590-gearlube.html
Not many parts to replace if you do not plan to replace the unit bearings. The knuckle seals I told you about already. You may or may not want to replace the dust shield (some call it a seal. It doesn't really seal anything.) that goes on the inner side of the shafts up against the axle tube. Those things disintegrate quickly into rubber hula hoops around the shaft. How is the steering linkage? I will come back and add part numbers as I find them.
eBay knuckle seal and dust seal/shield set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18579808999...3ABFBMsOSl8rti
See the attached PDF for lubricant quantity. I run Schaeffer 293 Supreme 75W-90 as recommended by them over the 751M.
https://www.schaefferoil.com/2937590-gearlube.html
I hadn’t thought of doing the vacuum check, but we certainly will. I’ve got rubber hula hoops right now, so anything will be an upgrade.
Im probably gonna do U joints and ball joints while I’m in there. I’ve got some crazy overtime stuff coming up and really want the truck happy through “winter” (I live in San Antonio, so winter is pretty tame)
I’m fairly green at chasing vacuum leaks. What’s the best way?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,110
Likes: 4,715
From: Henderson, NV
In that case:
XRF Ball Joints: Spicer U-joints:
The u-joints are the non-greasable type which are stronger. They come with lifetime grease.
As for vacuum leaks, I like to plug one end, apply shop air gently and spray soapy water. Then when I still had to jump out to lock the hubs 50% of the time I switched to manual hubs and got rid of the 4x4 vacuum crap.
XRF Ball Joints: Spicer U-joints:
The u-joints are the non-greasable type which are stronger. They come with lifetime grease.
As for vacuum leaks, I like to plug one end, apply shop air gently and spray soapy water. Then when I still had to jump out to lock the hubs 50% of the time I switched to manual hubs and got rid of the 4x4 vacuum crap.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 75
Likes: 28
In that case:
XRF Ball Joints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spicer U-joints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The u-joints are the non-greasable type which are stronger. They come with lifetime grease.
As for vacuum leaks, I like to plug one end, apply shop air gently and spray soapy water. Then when I still had to jump out to lock the hubs 50% of the time I switched to manual hubs and got rid of the 4x4 vacuum crap.
XRF Ball Joints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spicer U-joints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The u-joints are the non-greasable type which are stronger. They come with lifetime grease.
As for vacuum leaks, I like to plug one end, apply shop air gently and spray soapy water. Then when I still had to jump out to lock the hubs 50% of the time I switched to manual hubs and got rid of the 4x4 vacuum crap.
Wjats better about the XRF ball joints?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,110
Likes: 4,715
From: Henderson, NV
Good reviews at the time I went with them. Still relatively few complaints now. I cannot speak to their construction versus other makes since all the ball joint makers (except Dynatrac) seem to think it is some sort of industrial secret.
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