Hey all,

I've been lurking here a few months and I've got to say this first: going through the restoration threads has been a lot of fun and awesome to read. Thank you in advance.

I've wrenched on my own vehicles and do general maintenance on my vehicles, been around a shop all of my life. I've always wanted a project vehicle to build/restore as more of a hobby. What brought me to a bullnose is the fact, as a kid, I used to play in my dad's bullnose that sat in the weeds for many years. It was my dad's first truck, a 1984 F150 regular cab long box with the 300I6, manual. I always thought of it as a sharp looking truck. He still has it but it's pretty much rusted out underneath.

Is there any general advice you can give for a guy, relatively new and inexperienced in resto work, to look for in a truck? I understand the common problems relating to rust, replacing hoods and panels, and the commonality of swapped engines which may pose more risk than reward.

I've been gravitating toward an extended cab rather than a regular/standard cab. I'm not sure if I should because I also feel that kills the "classic" look and feel an older truck should have. Where is everyone finding their projects?

Separate note: I found a truck with a 351 Cleveland swapped in... can anyone shed some light if that's even worth considering over say a 351W?

I originally wanted a 300 but have been more open to a 351W. Not terribly interested in a 5.0.

Any and all advice is welcome. Even if it is to tell me not to waste my time, just give an explanation for the negative feedback is all I ask.

Another note: Im from WI and have been looking south for a rust free truck. Anyone ever buy one with this predicament? Advice on that?

 

Rust is a big headache. Avoid it if at all possible. If you are looking at rusty trucks, you might as well buy your Dad's old truck. A panel or a fender is needed for a small rust hole, or a huge rust hole, it doesn't matter too much as far as that is concerned. But try to avoid rust if at all possible.

351c is a engine they only built for a few years, and was never offered in these trucks. So it would be more of a project than a standard engine that came originally in these trucks.

351w 2barrel engines may have a bunch of computer stuff on them. As well as the 300 inline six 1984-up will also have computer stuff on it, even though they use carbs. Lots of wires and complexity.

 

Yeah the 351C swapped truck I found will need a new bed. Both wells above the rear wheels is rusted through big time. The rest of the panels and cab corners look solid though. I was intrigued by the extra performance a 351c may offer over the 351w.

I thought the computer BS didn't start until 85 on the 351?

 

If the frame on dad's truck is solid, consider getting it running. With the I6 and manual, that is a pretty desirable work combination. You know all of the history on it, and it may not take a huge amount to get it back on the road. Then either you or dad keep and run it as is, make it pretty if you wish, or sell it to fund the search for a better candidate.

The thing about bullnose is about everybody over 20 had a dad, granddad, uncle, or whoever who owned one, and that makes them smile and overlook even my horrible bodywork.

 

That was my first consideration until I looked at the frame, floors, cab corners, and bed. The exterior panels are in good shape and the motor has been out of the truck for 30 years, sitting in a shop and not rusting away like the truck. Dad thinks it's too far gone to bring back, and he wouldn't fib.

 

I do not know where you live, but just start comparing trucks for sale to your Dad's. You may start to get the idea his truck is not too bad, especially since you are spending decent money on a truck that may be just a little bit better than his. You will have to do the work, so it's your decision.

351w has more opportunity for power now compared to the 351c. Ford engines always fell short in the cylinder head department. That is what is attractive about the 351c. But your choices are limited now to get some power out of that engine in 2 barrel form. The 351w power on the other hand, can be bumped up easily by modern aluminum heads already setup with an adjustable valve train and choice of head volume for your desired compression ratio. Much easier than the 351c.

 

WI. Dad thinks his should go to the crusher but kept it as a lawn ornament / momento mostly. I'm thinking of buying a truck down south and shipping it north.

 

Are you sure it needs a bed ? they make patch panels for over the wheel wells. I cut those out back about 2008, JC Whitney had patch panels for $19.00, (2008) I finally bonded them on about 3 years ago, and then used the side of the garage to help finish bonding that side a couple of months ago.

 

Are you sure the frame is bad on dad's truck?
I think you can get the rear spring hangers and shock mounts as they do rust out but the rails out back you are on your own.

If you find a truck with a good frame but bad body you could do a frame swap.
I gave away a long WB reg cab frame from my parts truck as I was not going to use it.
The member paid for shipping from NC to MI and has done a great job rebuilding his truck.

I also would not get rid of dad's truck, if you dont use it, till you get your truck as you can use parts from it if need be.
I bought my 2 trucks, both 81 F100's a SB flare side and a long bed style side, off CL.
The LB was the parts truck that was rolled on it's roof less motor, doors, tail gate and the HVAC controls.
There was a lot of parts I used off that truck, even the bed floor to replace the wood floor of the flare side & dual tanks.

I will say it helps if you have a large garage to do the work in and space out side for a parts truck or 2.
You also did not say what tools you have to use and your skill set?
Most have a tool box full to do motor / trans / suspension and body swaps but do you plan on doing body work & painting?
Not to turn you or anyone else off from doing their own work (body) as other have for the first time it just takes longer than if a pro was doing it.
But it dose take the right tools and a good air compressor to run sanders & paint guns.

Lastly build the truck you want dont have others tell you how you should build it.
Now that has nothing to do with how to do a job you have not done before.
Say you have to replace a body panel you have 2 way you can go with it, weld it or glue it.
Welding there are different ways also, butt weld, over lap and weld around the edges or plug weld.
With the information given you can then pick what you think would work best.

Just have fun with your build.
BTW I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild of my flare side and did a few custom things.
I built it my way LOL
Dave ----

 

The pictures i was sent seemed to show the bed was pretty much junk. The wheel wells, rear corners under the tail lights, and under the tail gate were all open holes with rust.

I found some of those replacement panels and that's definitely an option if it comes down to it.

 

Patch panels will fix the outside, but not the inside structure. There is a metal "box" under each taillight, and the metal box on each side is tied together under the tailgate area with a large u channel piece. This gives the rear of the bed strength when the tailgate is down. If this is gone it's not worth fixing. I had a truck where you had to push up on the bedside to get the tailgate to shut and latch. They do not make patches for this. There are also small channels that support the bed floor and they like to rust out also. It's not worth it when you can find good beds and they just bolt on. That is what I did. You might end up paying $1000 for a good bed, but if you do not have anything to work with, it's worth it. Just bolt it on and go.

Some of the pieces of the frame are repairable. I went to the junkyard and they cut the back off a truck that had a good frame. I took that home and after a lot of drilling and grinding, swapped the rusted crossmembers out of my frame and bolted the good ones in place. The aftermarket sells the spring hangers if you need them.

 

Hey Dave,

I've seen you reply to a lot of threads and was hoping you'd chime in. You seem like a reasonable/knowledgeable guy so thanks for being here.

I have not personally looked at my dads truck but I may have to look at it myself and talk to him about it again. I planned on asking him if I could use it for parts if he would let me. I have a large space to store things for now, I don't exactly have a large shop for a frame up/off restoration, the in laws have a nice barn for storage and where I could do minor work. Space isn't an issue either to store a parts truck if need be.

My skill set in restoration is novice but general knowledge of vehicle maintenance, tear down, and overall ability I would say is above average. My dad had his own shop for 30+ years and kept all of his tools including a lift, a nice air compressor, amongst other things. I'd have access to the lift but it wouldn't be for years at a time.

I havent decided if i was going to do my own body work and paint. I know a guy who does great work for a deal since he and my dad were like partners back in the day when it came to auto repair. I'm not shy of it. It may be more work than anything I've ever done, but I've done body work and painted a couple tractors for customers in high school that got a lot of compliments.

I appreciate the honesty no doubt. Im sure if/when i get the truck, there will be a thread posted with pics and the whole deal.

Now to get out by my dad's with a couple hand tools and check his old truck.

 

Good to know. I've yet to look at a truck in person due to rust issues where I live. I planned on grabbing a truck from down south when the right one pops up at the right time for me to run down there to see it / pick it up. I feel like a southern truck would offer the best option for a restoration project that wouldn't involve major repairs due to rusted parts. I understand rust still happens there, just not like it does up here.

I'll keep that info in mind though. Thanks

 

The southern truck cost will initially by high, but well worth it in the long run.

 

Oddly enough, their pricing is similar to trucks around here. Just the shipping aspect is the extra cost so far.