In this pic of the LH lower A-pillar, you'll see that I've tacked the end of the patch panel and leveled the weld but did not grind into the parent metal. You never want to weaken that precious real estate if it hasn't already been compromised.
I had a little trouble with unpredictable heat here as I started out using an old welder that made things tough. About mid way through welding this, the first panel, I switched to a new machine and things got pretty'd up real quick.



For the keyboard warriors in the room, I kept that blue rag damp while I was in that area to protect the shoulder belt.

 

The window corners, as I mentioned earlier, needed both inner and outer patch panels, keeping in mind that the outers had to be nearly perfect so as not to induce pre-loads on the window once it was put back in place.
Here, I don't like this piece because, as you can see, the radii on the upper and lower flanges are not parallel. That was a do-over and something to be aware of.


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Ready for welding & smoothing.


Final results below...


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It's more work, but sometimes when you have a very complicated curved piece, you can fabricate it from smaller pieces. That is what this guy does.


I want to try his "cut and butt" panel welding method also. He has several videos on it. On a flat plain panel or a bought patch panel, he cuts out the rust, and then lays the new metal over the bad area, puts a couple of tack welds to hold it in place, and then he takes a cut off wheel, holds it at a angle and cuts through the new patch and the original car's metal. He only does a portion or one side, pushes it down with a hammer handle or something, and stitches it in place. And then slowly goes around doing the same thing to the complete patch. When he is done the patch lines up perfectly and a scrap ring of metal drops off on the inside.

 

[QUOTE=Franklin2;20927795]It's more work, but sometimes when you have a very complicated curved piece, you can fabricate it from smaller pieces. That is what this guy does.



"I want to try his "cut and butt" panel welding method also. He has several videos on it. On a flat plain panel or a bought patch panel, he cuts out the rust, and then lays the new metal over the bad area, puts a couple of tack welds to hold it in place, and then he takes a cut off wheel, holds it at a angle and cuts through the new patch and the original car's metal. He only does a portion or one side, pushes it down with a hammer handle or something, and stitches it in place. And then slowly goes around doing the same thing to the complete patch. When he is done the patch lines up perfectly and a scrap ring of metal drops off on the inside."

I've watched a few of Fitz's videos. I'll wager he's never created a sail panel for a '36 Bentley nor a '34 Bugatti Stelvio front guard (fender).
I would not have wanted to try his cut and butt method on the left or right hand window surround repairs.
Apples and oranges imo. But, it's all in what you become accustomed to and what works for you.
You could probably pull it off on something like a fender bottom from a '48 Ford, perhaps, but I'm just not a proponent of Fitzee's method.
As I said in the beginning, this is my last vehicle project.
From here on out I intend to build guitars and do a little pickin.'

 

Dave, thanks a million for the help. Sticker's gonna work great. I'll just cut a piece of clear pick guard material and put over it for protection.