Dragging Brake Issues
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
Dragging Brake Issues
1996 F250 5.8 2wd single cab.
I've been chasing down a dragging front brake caliper for a few years now. Originally it was the left front brake dragging. Now yesterday it has moved to the right front.
About a year ago I changed the brake lines on both right and left front brakes. At that time I re-greased the calipers\pins and pads. I also drained the old brake fluid as best I can and installed new fluid. I do still have the original calipers on the truck. The pistons seem to move freely when I re-greased the brakes.
Could this be a booster going bad? Any way to test for a failing booster?
Could a prepostioning valve cause this type of behavior?
Calipers are cheap and easy enough to do. Just would like to test a few things before throwing a lot of parts at it.
Booster and master cylinder are original as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've been chasing down a dragging front brake caliper for a few years now. Originally it was the left front brake dragging. Now yesterday it has moved to the right front.
About a year ago I changed the brake lines on both right and left front brakes. At that time I re-greased the calipers\pins and pads. I also drained the old brake fluid as best I can and installed new fluid. I do still have the original calipers on the truck. The pistons seem to move freely when I re-greased the brakes.
Could this be a booster going bad? Any way to test for a failing booster?
Could a prepostioning valve cause this type of behavior?
Calipers are cheap and easy enough to do. Just would like to test a few things before throwing a lot of parts at it.
Booster and master cylinder are original as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
I was thinking about replacing the calipers\rotors\pads and bearings since they got so hot. I just don't want to go through all that and find it was something else.
Thanks for the reply jas88 I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the reply jas88 I really appreciate it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
I noticed that Rock Auto has a few calipers to choose from. Looking at the Motor Craft remain.
Anyone have experience with these calipers? Or have a better caliper than the OE?
Thanks in advanced.
Anyone have experience with these calipers? Or have a better caliper than the OE?
Thanks in advanced.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
I truly have no idea what the clearance is. Is there a test procedure to calculate the distance? I would like to know the clearance for sure.. I hate to sound like a broken record but I would love to narrow down the issue as to not fire the parts cannon.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,921
Likes: 1,191
From: Mojave, Ca
Do you have a source for this 0.20" measurement? When I read the Service manual, it said to use the brake-booster tool to set the pushrod to be just touching the master cylinder piston. No gap but also not depressing it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,475
Likes: 2,009
From: North Texas
Rebuild them yourself for chump money if you believe that is the issue.
I have had a bad master cyl cause dragging issues when hot.
I have had a bad master cyl cause dragging issues when hot.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,172
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From: Bahstun
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...stment.178635/
same as other trucks too
the booster tool on amazon for under 20 takes the guess work out of it
same as other trucks too
the booster tool on amazon for under 20 takes the guess work out of it
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...stment.178635/
same as other trucks too
the booster tool on amazon for under 20 takes the guess work out of it
https://www.amazon.com/Sunyat-Power-...df_B07ZFDT3BK/
same as other trucks too
the booster tool on amazon for under 20 takes the guess work out of it
https://www.amazon.com/Sunyat-Power-...df_B07ZFDT3BK/
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
I will check the clearance as soon as I can. Can't hurt to check.
This is just another question and I don't want anyone to think I'm not appreciative of all the great advice. If the adjustment is off of the MC and booster. Can that cause a single caliper to drag? Would that not make both calipers drag at the same time?
Our son will be turning 16 soon and is wanting (Big Red) for his first vehicle. I've had it before he was born and he has known it all his life. So you could imagine that brakes working correctly is #1 priority at this point. Ultimately I would change the entire brake system if need be. But, I want him to work on this truck as I have. Learn how things work and get your hands dirty.
This is just another question and I don't want anyone to think I'm not appreciative of all the great advice. If the adjustment is off of the MC and booster. Can that cause a single caliper to drag? Would that not make both calipers drag at the same time?
Our son will be turning 16 soon and is wanting (Big Red) for his first vehicle. I've had it before he was born and he has known it all his life. So you could imagine that brakes working correctly is #1 priority at this point. Ultimately I would change the entire brake system if need be. But, I want him to work on this truck as I have. Learn how things work and get your hands dirty.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,172
Likes: 1,332
From: Bahstun
yes it should but nothing is perfect
if one caliper needs 80 PSI to move and the other need 85, but when applying more than 100-150, things even out. Might not affect the steering wheel at all but when it starts to heat up, it drags more with just a lil pressure on the MC input pin, this is why there is a gap to not have this
if one caliper needs 80 PSI to move and the other need 85, but when applying more than 100-150, things even out. Might not affect the steering wheel at all but when it starts to heat up, it drags more with just a lil pressure on the MC input pin, this is why there is a gap to not have this
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
Before you get a new master cylinder or you get a new booster which I don't think you need unless you are having pedal issues or hissing sounds, get the H tool and check what you have now. You don't have to remove the booster to check the gap and just loosen the Master Cylinder to bring it back some.
How to use the H TOOL video
How to use the H TOOL video
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 943
Likes: 184
From: Carnation, Wah
Going through this myself, these days-
the calipers rust on the outside of the hydraulic seal,
under the dust seal, and then that binds the pistons.
I suspect Ford originally used some sort of rust- retardant, but none of the 6 calipers I have taken
apart have had it. 4 were pretty obviously rebuilt, and all 4 were rusted pretty badly.
In binding the pistons, it scars them, so it makes sense to get a seal kit and 2 pistons per caliper.
Rust here can be removed- it won't affect hydraulic sealing, if you get the groove clean, and the pistons are supported well enough
by the caliper on the inboard side of the seal.
As of this spring, the Raybestos parts were made in Canada and the US, so they're worth the $25 or
so.
If one side's binding and the other is not, it CANNOT be the booster or master, as both front calipers
work off the same circuit. If the lines to the caliper are swollen shut, it CAN be those.
And just a rant- Western Washington is now salting the roads, and that rots your brake lines.
that is all,
t
the calipers rust on the outside of the hydraulic seal,
under the dust seal, and then that binds the pistons.
I suspect Ford originally used some sort of rust- retardant, but none of the 6 calipers I have taken
apart have had it. 4 were pretty obviously rebuilt, and all 4 were rusted pretty badly.
In binding the pistons, it scars them, so it makes sense to get a seal kit and 2 pistons per caliper.
Rust here can be removed- it won't affect hydraulic sealing, if you get the groove clean, and the pistons are supported well enough
by the caliper on the inboard side of the seal.
As of this spring, the Raybestos parts were made in Canada and the US, so they're worth the $25 or
so.
If one side's binding and the other is not, it CANNOT be the booster or master, as both front calipers
work off the same circuit. If the lines to the caliper are swollen shut, it CAN be those.
And just a rant- Western Washington is now salting the roads, and that rots your brake lines.
that is all,
t