When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
my brother and I were attempting to install a new door lock actuator on my 87 ford f150. there was no unit in the passenger door. the rods in the kit were all shaped in a Z type end.
The drivers side has a plastic piece (yellow) that goes into the the round hole that moves the mechanism up/down. long story short, we cut the Z type end to an L shape and put it in
the yellow piece that has a jut end that goes around the rod to hold it place. and it broke 2 minutes of testing it engaging the door lock. so...looks like I need that yellow clip that the
rod goes into. old brittle plastic I guess....
who makes those?
I'm guessing that we should not have adjusted that rod to be an L shape and used the yellow clip...but instead just put the Z end into the round hole and moved it down from the
horizontal position.
I gave it a brogan adjustment using piano wire...seems to be working now! until the PROPER clips arrive.
One thing I'm noticing is that the switch on the passengers side is able to lock and unlock BOTH doors properly. However, the driver side switch will ONLY do the lock
not unlock. A bum switch I guess...??
Correct. Should have kept it a Z shape so it was locked in better. LMC Truck has new clips or you could procure some from the junkyard.
It does sounds like the switch is bad. Verify with a test light before replacing the switch.
I had that feeling when we were messing with it....but in a rush and made a bad decision. the new one in the passenger side works great. I found some clips for a few bucks on
fleabay.
took the switch out of the drivers side door to see wtf is going on...lookly like jimmy crack corn was into the door doing mr fixit work in the past...one of the wires to this switch has broken and they cut the wire off, put a butt connector inline and soldered the wire directly to the pin where it was supposed to connect. I'll bet that butt connector has come loose inside. I'm going to cut the wire, bare a new section and properly solder it together and put wire shielding on. see if that fixes it.
no, did not fix it. I'll have to pick up a proper wire connector that goes on the end of the wire harness for the door lock switch into the plastic piece that the switch pins attach to. that was why they soldered the wire directly to that pin. I can hear the relay attempting to click under the dash when I hit the switch not but it doesn't work. passengers side works though. I'm guessing I will have to scarf that block from a junkyard....
I think the relay MAY be what's pooched though. I took the switch apart and everything inside looks to be intact and working. I cleaned the contacts that the rocker switch separates and it is clean and not broken.
what pin is the hot wire? There must. be power to it cuz when I hit the switch I can hear the relay under the dash doing something...just not its total job. anyone know the location of these relays?
this is what it looks like...supposed to be up under the dash behind the stereo on the firewall. if it drys out tomorrow, I'll have a look see if I can find it. Since the lock actuators are working on the passenger side, I'm thinking I flip the 2 relays and see if the drivers side works.
I picked up a new socket switch part that the wire harness connects to on the drivers side. that hack job of the switch for the door lock is causing other issues now...shorts out the radio when you hit the switch.
When I get it installed and re-wired with the switch...will report back the update.
According to the schematic in the Haynes manual, there are no relays- only the one circuit breaker. You could have figured out which wire did what/ checked for power in and out of both switches in a couple minutes with a cheap test light. Just because you “cleaned the contacts” doesn’t mean you now have power out of the switch. There is no way to tell without actually checking it with a teat light or DVOM.
According to the schematic in the Haynes manual, there are no relays- only the one circuit breaker. You could have figured out which wire did what/ checked for power in and out of both switches in a couple minutes with a cheap test light. Just because you “cleaned the contacts” doesn’t mean you now have power out of the switch. There is no way to tell without actually checking it with a teat light or DVOM.
this diagram will help me greatly, thx, when I put the new wire block at the end of the door wire harness. If anyone has any experience on taking
the wires out of the block and moving them to another one, pls chime in. There is only 1 wire on the switch block on the truck that activates the
power lock on the drivers side that is messed up (ie: the wire clip that goes in the plastic block is missing). If I take JUST that wire out of the
replacement block I'm getting and move it into the existing one in the door, vs having to cut ALL the wires off on the door wire harness and
solder each one back into place. ie: I know the wiring is correct on the switch block as both power windows work on both side from the
drivers side control and the pin that was soldered to the switch block on the pin of the door lock switch lock/unlock likely did damage to
it. so, 1st step is to get a good solid connection to the pin on that switch without solder possibly being an issue. I may end up having
to find a replacement switch as well...but 1st step is that block.
I have manual windows on the F-150. The Bronco has power windows and locks but I haven’t been in there for a long time. There is usually a red “block” that keeps the locking tabs in place. Remove that and then you should be able to get a small pick in there to release the wire retaining clip.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
