I have a 2019 as well. This past winter I thought I felt a slight delay when starting, and (most importantly) the plus connection of the battery had a lot of “crust”. Modern vehicles do not behave like they used to, when I was young you were feeling a progressively less efficient battery so you could plan ahead, nowadays with the electronics it’s running perfectly today and dead tomorrow. So I did not want to risk anything and I installed a new Walmart lead battery, it’s a cheap insurance against finding myself stuck somewhere…

 

The thing that prompted me to test the batteries was some electronic gremlins. I have the easy entry/exit configured on my truck along with Lincoln style mirrors and out of the blue, things started acting weird. The mirrors would unfold partway instead of all the way, the easy entry/exit wouldn't work when the truck was started and then I noticed the time on the Sync radio went to 24 hr clock instead of the 12 hr clock and sometimes I would start the truck and the radio would read "Audio OFF" and I know the radio was on when I shut the truck down. I also noticed once or twice a slightly slower crank when starting the truck. I have also had a P203B error code pop up and when I looked at the PID's for the DEF fluid tank, it showed 13.6v at the sensor and was reading the level at 65534 mm. Every now and then, it would read in the 220 mm range, but not often. It's only been two days since the batteries were swapped out, but i'll let y'all know if my gremlins are gone. The thing that surprised me the most was the actual CCA that was tested at the battery when I checked it. When the guy at Sam's tested them, one of the batteries didn't even have enough power to run the test (the one showing me 55 CCA) and the other ran the test but failed anyway (the one showing 333 CCA). He was surprised they both failed at the same time like that. What iConnect says is true though, one day they're good, the next day they're dead.

 

I changed the factory batteries in my truck May of this year after I noticed a delay in cranking and my seats would not go into position. I wasn't surprised since the Florida heat limits the lifespan of a battery. When he pulled them out, the tech showed me my factory batteries were seven years old. I guess a pallet of batteries got pushed to the side at the Ford plant.

 

I have an Odyssey in my truck and Napa in my other vehicles. Somewhere around 4 years I put new ones in the other vehicles no matter what. I would rather roll the dice on a replacement being bad than get stranded from an aging battery. I got burned more than a few times in my youth waiting until signs of trouble to replace. All in the hopes of kicking the can in an attempt to save a little money. Plowing and family trips are done in the truck, the other 2 are commuters. This strategy helps my state of mind if nothing else....
As far as AGMs in my researching (mostly from Jeep Bros) Odyssey and Northstar are in a class of their own and Northstar makes the Batteries Plus house brand for them- the X2 Power AGM.

 

I purchased a battery load tester and was testing my truck batteries. One failed after connecting the leads straight to the terminals. I noticed some corrosion, not much, however I removed the terminals and cleaned them and the posts. Retested and the battery that failed now passes. Been 6-8 months now and still working fine.

Don’t always assume your terminal to battery post is good there may be some corrosion causing loss of amps/voltage.

Mike

 

I put two new Odysseys in my truck the day I bought it, and have never had a problem. I also run them in my 7.3 going on 6 years, and never had a problem -- including during consecutive days at > -20F.

 

I got 10 years out my first set in my Dodge. But that was limited mileage and I always use battery tenders.
One of those batt's is still in my 79 Bronco (which has dual batt's, so one even if a little low, does not hurt that rig).
I only replaced them in the Dodge as I figured a some point, they have to go, and didn't want a problem out towing
one day.

All that said, the new rigs with all the electronic crap, seem much more sensitive to even a slightly failing battery.
My 14 mustang got stuck in 2nd gear (auto) for 4 miles one time, just from disconnecting battery for a week or two
during blower install. It fixed itself by me doing nothing, but it was really weird.

Agree there is no true way to know if batt is good purely by timeframe. Remove batt's, charge them up, let sit
overnight, and load test them.

 

Just replaced both of my O'Reilly Premium AGM batteries yesterday for my 250. I put two new ones in Jan of 21 and they both failed this past Saturday. Took both of them in and they replaced no questions asked. Texas heat is hell on batteries.

Shane

 

This thread has me wondering if I should be replacing the ones in my truck before winter. They were new in 2019 right before I bought the truck. I have a '79 that could use whichever one of the takeouts tests better. A cold snowmobile parking lot at the end of the day in the dark is a bad place to have them go down!

 

I highly recommend getting them load tested before it gets to far along in the season. Here in Texas, these 100+ degree days will kill a battery just as fast as the =20 temps will up north. I'm going to start checking them in the early part of winter and when temps start hitting the 90's down here. Hope you have no issues with yours!!! When I bought my '17 in '20, it still had the original batteries in it with just under 61k on the odo. I was hoping for another year at least, but no go.