Does someone have the part number for the Pertronix electronic ignition kit for a '74 LN880 with a 477? I bought one that I thought was right, but it doesn't fit.

 

A long shot here, but.....you might try contacting Pertronix with the number or tag that's on the side of the distributor housing. Also, does this take the regular style of ignition points from that era?
What exactly is different about your module that it doesn't fit?

 

I figured out that I had bought the wrong one, I accidently ordered the dual point kit. I did initially talk to Pertronix, they told me to find a number on the dist, which I couldn't find.

 

I know this post is a bit stale but I just now saw it.
The SD series used the bog standard ford V8 points, cap and rotor that most fords did from the late 50, right up until the end of the points era.
I just look up the parts for a mid 60's ford mustang with a 302. Just to be safe go to your local auto parts store and pick up a cap and rotor button to see if they fit.
You'll probably want to swap those out when you redo your ignition anyway.
If you're a bit more adventurous, you can do what I've done with some old gas powered heavy equipment and look up a wiring diagram to run a GM hei ignition module.
They are cheap and auto parts stores almost always have one in stock.
You can use your points setup, minus the condenser to trigger the HEI ignition module. The points will last pretty much until they wear out mechanically. They won't burn out because there is no load on them and the module isn't terribly picky about things like dwell.

Bonus points if you can find a later distributor with the built in electronic pickup.

You can get a decent little heat sink, module and some connectors for about $30-40 online. The only really weird part is that the coil will fire when the points close instead of when they open, so you'll have to pull the distributor and offset your timing by roughly 22.5 degrees.

I've got an old forklift that is a bit of a unicorn when it comes to finding parts. The points were a pain to set and I was having trouble getting a nice hot spark even with a new coil, etc. I swapped in the hei a few years back and haven't had to touch it since.

 

Just bought a 1975 L900 Time Capsule with a 477. Having the same problem with getting the right Pertronix kit. Also talked to them a few times. Kit number three is on the way; first one was for DuraSpark, second was dual points, third one is a 6 cyl points kit? based on the shaft profile of being round with a slot versus looking like an upper-case D from top-down view. We shall see how it goes?....

Separate subject, but I'm going EFI on this monster.

 

It should be a standard Ford V8. No dual points, no DuraSpark. Just buy a kit for a 289 Fairlane or something.....

 

That should be the bog standard Ford V8, cap, rotor and points/pertronics kit.
almost every Ford V8 from the late 50s into the 60s use the same set up.

While I tend to be pretty solidly old-school I have to admit I am very curious how one of these engines would do with fuel injection. If you do that, please tell us how it works out.

 

So the rep from Pertronix messed up the first time, I messed up the second, and took their advice for the third. Kit will be here on Friday. I also was not able to see the casting marks on the distributor, not a lot of room in that area. Didn't have a bore-scope to go snooping in depth.

EFI is already here, waiting on some -6AN line/fittings pumps, regulator etc. Went with the Aces KillShot.

I'll make a new thread for the installation as to not hijack this thread.

 

Pertronix 1281 is the standard kit for 8-cylinder Fords with single points, ie the most common.
Pertronix 91281 is the more expensive model that has an RPM limiting feature (governor).

Don't forget to feed the Pertronix module 12v! Do not try to feed it from the stock coil positive lead, which wire has an internal ballast resistor and feeds the coil at only ~8v when running (12v or whatever the battery voltage is, while cranking, via the fender-mounted starter solenoid ignition bypass circuit 262; more info on that circuit here.). Feeding the Pertronix module 12v -- without the OEM ballast resistor -- is asking for misfires. A very common mistake in Pertronix conversions.