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cant measure GPs OHM when harness is connected since its a parrlell circut and the lowest one gives you a reading.
there should be about .1 ohms at the GPR between the two big posts, higher than .1 and you have a GP that is burnt out.
Measure the GPs OHMS at the UVCH unlugged to ground
I guess I’m not understanding what you mean by Unlugged? I unplugged the pigtail. Touched the multimeter (-)to the block. And the (+) to each GP at the connector truck side
If starts at 55F not plugged in, most if not all GPs are working. Mine would not start under 60F with the GPR unplugged. 65F was about the threshold for mine.
Plugging in is a quick test. 3-4hr seems sufficient to me.
I am not in agreement with this. My GPR is currently disconnected and it seems to start fine so far down into the 50s without any help. I think compression has an impact on it.
I guess I’m not understanding what you mean by Unlugged? I unplugged the pigtail. Touched the multimeter (-)to the block. And the (+) to each GP at the connector truck side
how's the blow by? Any movement when you flip the oil cap on the oil fill hole? (cap vibrating off is ok, but pulsating means bad)
Cap flip test can only indicate an outright fail, not a pass. Like yeah do it and if it gets puffed off that's very bad, but can't assume blow-by is fine if that doesn't happen.
Originally Posted by DanielT28
I will get to the compression test...
I'd recommend doing a running compression test vs just a standard cranking. You can get perfectly fine cranking numbers across all cylinders even if dusting/wear has occurred to the extent that it's causing problems. IIRC you want to see ~600-650 PSI.
Plug it in then see how the morning start goes. If it changes it then you may have gp system issues still.
If the truck runs ok after a lil heat and does the job needed, how far do you really need to go? It may not be perfect but at almost 25 years of use...none of em are. Just playing devils advocate here.
My OBS smokes just like yours. Cold calm mornings it will be a plume that could cover over half a football field. It uses a little bit of oil but no more than my other 7.3s that don't smoke. It has a raw fuel smell that will burn your eyes but always goes away once warm. Oil cap blow-by is zero and won't push the cap off the filler neck even at 3000rpm. Good glowplugs and will start in sub 0 temps no problem. No lack of power or other symptoms. It has smoked like that for over 15 years. Always thought it was fuel timing.
My OBS smokes just like yours. Cold calm mornings it will be a plume that could cover over half a football field. It uses a little bit of oil but no more than my other 7.3s that don't smoke. It has a raw fuel smell that will burn your eyes but always goes away once warm. Oil cap blow-by is zero and won't push the cap off the filler neck even at 3000rpm. Good glowplugs and will start in sub 0 temps no problem. No lack of power or other symptoms. It has smoked like that for over 15 years. Always thought it was fuel timing.
Pulled the turbo yesterday. No major Leaks. Possibly on the compressor side. But I can’t tell whether it was the seal or CCV. I snapped 2 bolts pulling the turbine housing. Ordered a new one after failing to extract it. Broke 2 extractors. Turbine housing and housing was a B to separate.
I don’t see any obvious issues with it. But hopefully fresh seals helps the smoke. Also grabbed a RR diesel 4/4 compressor wheel and a western snow plow GPR. 360° thrust bearing rebuild from RR diesel
Also, does anyone have any tips for getting the t4 bolts tight on the turbo when I re install? I pulled the turbo a few months back to do the up pipes. And the 2 lower bolts weren’t loose. But they also didn’t take much effort to break loose. The new bolts with the up pipes are 13mm. So I used a box end wrench to get in there this time
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