After I replaced the oil lines I checked the HPOP reservoir and it was low so I filled it up to about an inch below the top. I had removed the fuel bowl as well for this job.

It cranked for maybe 5 seconds then fired but it idled high and had a bad miss with a lot of smoke. I let it idle for another 3-4 minutes hoping it would clear out so I could drive it to get the rest of the air out of the oil system but it didn’t. I shut it off and restarted a few minutes later, same thing but got worse and worse started missing real bad until it shut off. Now it’s a crank no start. It sounds like it’ll start then it doesn’t.

What I’m not understanding is how does it fire up right away the first time but then progressively get worse?

I removed the springs out of the HPOP fittings for the JIC crossover kit I installed. Would this have anything to do with it?

How can I crank without it trying to fire? I can’t remember but I thought there is something I can unplug on the passenger side of the engine compartment?

thanks for any input.

 

Have you checked the fuel side of the equation? You said you removed the fuel bowl. Does it fill like it should, no leaks and all the lines back where they belong? To be honest this sounds a little more like a fuel issue. It fired right up but started getting rough. Then progressively gets worse and worse until no dice. Like maybe it was slowly running out of fuel until the bowl was empty.

 

Udsuth has some good thoughts.

You can disconnect the 42 pin connector at the drivers side valve cover to prevent starting. Or pull the IDM relay. 42 pin is easier to locate though.

 

Yeah the fuel lines are installed tight. The return line oring was broken so I had to find an oring. I replaced it but it may have been too small. BUT it’s not leaking any fuel? The fuel bowl was empty when I reinstalled so it had to prime itself. I did key on off cycles probably ten times but it did fire nicely.

I’m at a loss unless I have a mass amount of air in the oil rails?

 

I second fuel starvation issues. Moving the fuel bowl dislodged the heater element and now there's a short inside and it's blowing the fuel pump fuse?

 

I checked the fuel fuse and it was good then I disconnected the fuel heater and still no fire. I’m thinking maybe fuel was still in the lines when I started but then the air made its way in because the bowl was empty?

 

You could verify fuel in the cylinder heads by removing the NPT plug at the galley opposite of where the steel lines go in. Cycle the ignition. It should come out a nice fat stream.

 

You can also just open the fuel bowl lid to see if there is fuel in there and then run a hose or tubing of the correct size off the fuel bowl drain into a bucket , open the valve cycle the key on and check to make sure you have ample flow into the bucket

 

I popped open the fuel bowl and it was almost bone dry. I turn the key on and it filled up fast. II stall fuel bowl and it fired up but runs back. Constant blue smoke. It’s still idling but rough like it’s missing but it hasn’t shut off yet.

*10 minutes later and still running now it’s smoothing out. I’m supposed to drive a 6 hour round trip today but I don’t feel right taking off not knowing what caused the no fuel issue. Does anyone have any idea? The fuel bowl was almost bone dry, I had cranked and cranked, key on off cycles etc. and the fuel bowl was bone dry until I removed the fuel bowl top and turned key on to fill it.

 

Sounds like the fuel bowl never filled up initially after install, the truck just started and ran off of what was left in the lines/heads. The only thing electrical that you messed with was the fuel bowl heater so I'm inclined to think it had something to do with that but it never blew the fuse. Curious what others have to say about this one

 

Fuel tank level low? Hutch mod done?

 

Airman this doesn't pertain to your fuel delivery issue but when you said you replaced the o-ring on the fuel return line were you talking about the parker sleave that fits over the return line in front of the compression nut?

 

I was thinking center stem in fuel bowl not in correctly? Don't know if it was removed or not

 

Only thing I can figure that would explain your dry fuel bowl would be suction side leak mixed w/ an original 20+ year old tired pump. The fuel back bled through the pump making it start from scratch while fighting a suction leak.

 

That’s a good thought but I believe that’s how it outputs to the engine. Meaning the bowl shouldn’t empty if the stem valve isn’t open.