Sparkplug..which way did it go?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Kansas
Sparkplug..which way did it go?
I've been reading on this forum about the V-10 and it's "flying sparkplug" I have 60,000 miles on mine and have had no problem with this so far. My concern is how many, or percentage of V-10's are doing this? Sounds like Ford don't give a hoot because I guess that nothing has been done to solve the problem..is this right? I'm kinda scared of this now as I do some traveling with this truck and don't want to get stranded out in boo choo China. Can anyone offer me an asurance that this will not happen to my truck? I even read on here where the plug ruined the head after it ejected, and I sure don't want that. Your thoughts please. Thanks.
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From: Vancouver Wash USA
Re: Sparkplug..which way did it go?
Originally posted by trakman
I've been reading on this forum about the V-10 and it's "flying sparkplug" I have 60,000 miles on mine and have had no problem with this so far. My concern is how many, or percentage of V-10's are doing this? Sounds like Ford don't give a hoot because I guess that nothing has been done to solve the problem..is this right? I'm kinda scared of this now as I do some traveling with this truck and don't want to get stranded out in boo choo China. Can anyone offer me an asurance that this will not happen to my truck? I even read on here where the plug ruined the head after it ejected, and I sure don't want that. Your thoughts please. Thanks.
I've been reading on this forum about the V-10 and it's "flying sparkplug" I have 60,000 miles on mine and have had no problem with this so far. My concern is how many, or percentage of V-10's are doing this? Sounds like Ford don't give a hoot because I guess that nothing has been done to solve the problem..is this right? I'm kinda scared of this now as I do some traveling with this truck and don't want to get stranded out in boo choo China. Can anyone offer me an asurance that this will not happen to my truck? I even read on here where the plug ruined the head after it ejected, and I sure don't want that. Your thoughts please. Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Too close to Houston
In my opinion (others may argue) it is pointless to try to torque dry threads. By lubing the sparkplug threads with antisieze all the torque is going in to tightening the plug, not overcoming thread friction.
Think of bolts as springs. To get clamping force you have to stretch it. Since most applications don't allow for measuring the actual stretch, torque is used in its place. Most specifications for bolt tightening call for lubricating all but brand-new coated bolts. The coating on these serves as its lubricant. If you look at a spark plug it has a bolt thread on the end that clamps a tapered or gasketed seal in place. Some miniscule stretch of the area between the threads and the seal is required for maintaining this clamping force. Good design practice will have a non-threaded area between the sealing face and the threads on the plug, in the head, or both to allow for this stretch.
Think of bolts as springs. To get clamping force you have to stretch it. Since most applications don't allow for measuring the actual stretch, torque is used in its place. Most specifications for bolt tightening call for lubricating all but brand-new coated bolts. The coating on these serves as its lubricant. If you look at a spark plug it has a bolt thread on the end that clamps a tapered or gasketed seal in place. Some miniscule stretch of the area between the threads and the seal is required for maintaining this clamping force. Good design practice will have a non-threaded area between the sealing face and the threads on the plug, in the head, or both to allow for this stretch.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Vancouver Wash USA
Originally posted by Sport45
In my opinion (others may argue) it is pointless to try to torque dry threads. By lubing the sparkplug threads with antisieze all the torque is going in to tightening the plug, not overcoming thread friction.
Think of bolts as springs. To get clamping force you have to stretch it. Since most applications don't allow for measuring the actual stretch, torque is used in its place. Most specifications for bolt tightening call for lubricating all but brand-new coated bolts. The coating on these serves as its lubricant. If you look at a spark plug it has a bolt thread on the end that clamps a tapered or gasketed seal in place. Some miniscule stretch of the area between the threads and the seal is required for maintaining this clamping force. Good design practice will have a non-threaded area between the sealing face and the threads on the plug, in the head, or both to allow for this stretch.
In my opinion (others may argue) it is pointless to try to torque dry threads. By lubing the sparkplug threads with antisieze all the torque is going in to tightening the plug, not overcoming thread friction.
Think of bolts as springs. To get clamping force you have to stretch it. Since most applications don't allow for measuring the actual stretch, torque is used in its place. Most specifications for bolt tightening call for lubricating all but brand-new coated bolts. The coating on these serves as its lubricant. If you look at a spark plug it has a bolt thread on the end that clamps a tapered or gasketed seal in place. Some miniscule stretch of the area between the threads and the seal is required for maintaining this clamping force. Good design practice will have a non-threaded area between the sealing face and the threads on the plug, in the head, or both to allow for this stretch.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2003
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I'll add what I know about this issue. I have no idea if it is common or not, sure hope not LOL!
I concour with what Ken says.
A few things. One, the way the head is designed the coil on plug boot is supposed to keep any dirt out of the hole and around the threads. But with the way the plug points up, some dirt can find a way in there. When you remonve the coil, be very careful to clean the boot and blow out around the plug before you remove it if you can. Dirt can find a way into the spark plug well and threads when you remove the plug.
Another part of the head design is it doesnt have a whole lot of meat in the thread area. So you have to be careful torquing the plugs when you replace them. It 7-14 lbs according to the shop manual, using a torque wrench. I find that hard to believe, but thats what it says.
The shop service manual tells you to do both of these things.
Just a few things to keep in mind when changing your plugs.
I concour with what Ken says.
A few things. One, the way the head is designed the coil on plug boot is supposed to keep any dirt out of the hole and around the threads. But with the way the plug points up, some dirt can find a way in there. When you remonve the coil, be very careful to clean the boot and blow out around the plug before you remove it if you can. Dirt can find a way into the spark plug well and threads when you remove the plug.
Another part of the head design is it doesnt have a whole lot of meat in the thread area. So you have to be careful torquing the plugs when you replace them. It 7-14 lbs according to the shop manual, using a torque wrench. I find that hard to believe, but thats what it says.
The shop service manual tells you to do both of these things.
Just a few things to keep in mind when changing your plugs.
New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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Popping spark plug
I have had the same problem with my V-10. One spark plug popped out, and the truck sounded like an antique tractor. My dad and I used a tool to clean up the threads and replaced the spark plug. 700 miles later, it happened again. I was told today that the only way to replace it was to take it to Ford and have them replace the head.
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Posting Guru
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From: Vancouver Wash USA
Re: Popping spark plug
Originally posted by boilersouth_2002
I have had the same problem with my V-10. One spark plug popped out, and the truck sounded like an antique tractor. My dad and I used a tool to clean up the threads and replaced the spark plug. 700 miles later, it happened again. I was told today that the only way to replace it was to take it to Ford and have them replace the head.
I have had the same problem with my V-10. One spark plug popped out, and the truck sounded like an antique tractor. My dad and I used a tool to clean up the threads and replaced the spark plug. 700 miles later, it happened again. I was told today that the only way to replace it was to take it to Ford and have them replace the head.
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New User
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I was somewhat worried about the flying plugs and spoke to the service mgr at my dealer. I've got 68K on my '00 F250. His take was they see blown plugs from time to time on the V6s, V8s, and V10s. Ford did have a torque problem at one time but never acknowledged it. His advice was that if it hasn't gone by now it'll be fine to the 100K mark, then, blow out the holes, pull'em, use anti-sieze and rough up the mating surface of the new plugs, and torque-em to spec.
Otherwise, if you start hearing a hissing or chugging sound when you start with the engine is cold, check it out before going to far. That steel to aluminum interface can loosen up...
Otherwise, if you start hearing a hissing or chugging sound when you start with the engine is cold, check it out before going to far. That steel to aluminum interface can loosen up...
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
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This possible lack of torque problem makes sense. I would think that if there was an inherent weakness in the aluminum head that we would be hearing from guys that stripped the hole out while (over)tightening new plugs. Or even reports of the threads coming out with the plug when the plugs were removed for the first time at the 100,000 mile change interval. Especially considering that it seems like there's only two threads holding the plugs in when you install them.
Posting Guru
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From: Vancouver Wash USA
Originally posted by farmwheels
This possible lack of torque problem makes sense. I would think that if there was an inherent weakness in the aluminum head that we would be hearing from guys that stripped the hole out while (over)tightening new plugs. Or even reports of the threads coming out with the plug when the plugs were removed for the first time at the 100,000 mile change interval. Especially considering that it seems like there's only two threads holding the plugs in when you install them.
This possible lack of torque problem makes sense. I would think that if there was an inherent weakness in the aluminum head that we would be hearing from guys that stripped the hole out while (over)tightening new plugs. Or even reports of the threads coming out with the plug when the plugs were removed for the first time at the 100,000 mile change interval. Especially considering that it seems like there's only two threads holding the plugs in when you install them.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 164
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From: Upper Saddle River, NJ
Originally posted by farmwheels
Especially considering that it seems like there's only two threads holding the plugs in when you install them.
Especially considering that it seems like there's only two threads holding the plugs in when you install them.
Junior User
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I was being a wiseguy about the 2 threads. However when I changed my plugs, after tightening the first one and I only got a few swings on the ratchet and it was tight, I thought I'd cross threaded it. I took it back out and of course (or thankfully) I hadn't. The other 9 were the same way.
I used the double platinum Autolite (never did get my $1 a plug rebate back from Autolite) and noticed that they had plenty of threads on them. The last time I checked, the 2003 V10s are using the same Autolite APP103 plug. Of course, that doesn't mean that Ford doesn't have a newer style head that will utilize all the threads on the APP103. I seem to recall that when this subject has come up on prior threads, there were posts saying that the part numbers are still the same from 2000 on, which would indicate that the current heads are the same as the earlier ones, excluding the 1999's.
If I'm wrong I'll cheerfully stand corrected (and learn something.)
I used the double platinum Autolite (never did get my $1 a plug rebate back from Autolite) and noticed that they had plenty of threads on them. The last time I checked, the 2003 V10s are using the same Autolite APP103 plug. Of course, that doesn't mean that Ford doesn't have a newer style head that will utilize all the threads on the APP103. I seem to recall that when this subject has come up on prior threads, there were posts saying that the part numbers are still the same from 2000 on, which would indicate that the current heads are the same as the earlier ones, excluding the 1999's.
If I'm wrong I'll cheerfully stand corrected (and learn something.)
