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Happy memorial day,
so I bought this compression test tool "Dayuan" was the brand name. Before I start getting into my valve covers does anyone know if I will be able to clear the connection to the glow plug adapter? I have seen some videos but it's not exactly clear. My concern is the the release/connection fitting is too bulky and will route too far down where the glow plug adapter will connect and will not be able to pull the sleeve back to disconnect.
Doing a compression test before I purchase my performance mods to make sure I don't dump 5k on a motor that doesn't deserve it.
Also, should I compression test with the motor cold and warm? And with 260k should I not expect every cylinder to show 400psi?
Lol, ok. Right over my head. No, I got it from Amazon which is probably worse.
I can pull things apart and see how that hose connects to the adapter. But it seemed like that disconnect sleeve is bulky and may not clear the injector, spring or other parts. Also pulling back that connector to disconnect the adapter may be difficult? From memory when I replaced my glow plugs I had to slip a hose on the top to back out the glow plug because after a certain point the socket would not clear.
Is there any amount of blow-by? If you flip the oil fill cap on the oil fill hole does it fly off, or float then consider a rebuild, and even with a weak engine they can still go a couple of miles.
On my 00 blow by was bad, scored cylinders, smokey as sin, and broken rings and that thing lasted me 10k miles DD and pulling 13k +- which was more than I expected considering how bad the engine was.
Now I have a fresh rebuild engine and have only put maybe 3-4k on it, .mostly pulling **** for work.
Here's a video of the bad blow by that for what ever reason the you tu key board mechanics said that wasn't "bad blow by" lol.
What leads do I take off the starter relay so I can turn the motor without starting the truck? And just confirming that the starter relay is mounted on the inside fender next to the passenger battery?
Pull fuse #22 in the engine compartment fuse box. You can then crank in with the key. Or leave the key in the off position, and Jump the small wire on the fender relay to the positive cable from the battery.
I started this project midday and after purchasing a second compression tester at harbor freight and getting the parts to build a nipple to clear the rocker arm my motor was already cooled (somewhat). But I did a compression test on the driver's side cylinders anyways. They ranged from 325-350. I started the test at 4. So the truck had 4 hours to cool after idling for 10 min. Will continue the test next week on the passenger side cylinders. I cranked 3 sessions per cylinder to get full compression.
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