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Ok here goes asked some questions got answers so Happy Camper. Starting my build order 1. Do I just keep adding to this file for continuations? If not, someone let me know. I got an answer on the proportioning valve use a PV2 has anyone actually bought one that has a number? Only have fast food guys here they can't find it on a computer they don't have it. rust on hood not sure whether order new hood or have repaired Ok this is a quandary especially when you see where it goes on next pic Next pic WTH?
I know my lines on this truck are all 3/16th going to run new lines anyway the first one I actually looked at was on a 78 Ford with dual master but no boost, which really I can do without but already have a CPP disc brake kit that previous owner threw in. So pulled fenders, inner wells, and radiator support (noy enuf left for even salvage metal) but first major purchase was the core support my hats off for NPD Ocala Fl. Gonna post some pics now waiting for front spring bushings to get that all done. Had new king pin set installed (I don't recommend the average Joe do this I have a press but you really need a reamer) so with that thought tried failed and $15 shorter for new bushing set.
Ok this is a quandary especially when you see where it goes on next pic.
That is an external oil line for the rockers. Although it is the most rednecked one I've seen. You see those more often on "Y" blocks when the oil passages in the head and block carbon up and the rockers stop oiling. If you are going to keep the engine an overhaul is in your future.
Okay I'm the worst for taking pictures but thought I'd add a few more. So here goes still have some questions but not sure where to post them. New front disc brake conversion, springs all new bushings. King pins all new Not good pic but frame from cabn forward was bead blasted. Have new shocks somewhere in a stack of boxes Everything covered in POR then sprayed with bed liner really liked the outcome of the bed liner hopefully holds better than rubberized coating Had some plates screwed in the back, removed screws and Opps? All the way thru to garage floor Next major purchase a tailgate
Instead of a tail gate maybe look for a better bed with tail gate.
Or they say the bed floors are the same for the years up to mid 90's I think it is.
Only thing on the early trucks the wheel base / wheel wells in the bed could be in a different place.
If you look for a take off bed just measure the bolts between yours and it.
You then bay be able to mount your bed sides if good on the new bed inner sides & floor.
I dont know about the tail gate swap so may have to deal with that and hinges?
FYI I used a metal ribbed floor from a style side to replace the wood floor on my 81 F100 flare side.
I cut the bed sides, inner & outer, off the floor and had to make it shorter as it was a LB and I needed a SB floor.
You would leave the inner walls to hang your bed side on it.
Dave ----
If it were that simple I have a unibody. The under neath if bed is terrible especially all toward the dront where water has a tendency to stay along with leaves and trash
Still keep your eyes open, many unis got cut up into truck bed trailers...
Those beds make good donations for floor patches, bed corners, sometimes tailgates, etc. Last person I witnessed selling bed patch pieces, set a price and sold out in the wink of an eye.
As to the torque box (support at front of bed/back of cab) it consists of mostly flat 11ga steel replacement parts can be made... And made in smaller sections that get spotted together. Once undercoated who is going to see the seams...
Just that stuff at O'Reilleys I'm on my second kit they have a kit with the gallon and everything you need but I got real happy and put two healthy coats. I'm 70 so I don't want to do anything else to this once I.m done. My Bronco which I painter with bed liner in a Forest Green and my Falcon think I don't love them anymore
The above ‘Southern-Engineered’ top oiler is without doubt, one of the all-time best Hall of Fame solutions from below the Mason-Dixon Line. We need a sticky thread showing these as posted here on FTE.
Just that stuff at O'Reilleys I'm on my second kit they have a kit with the gallon and everything you need but I got real happy and put two healthy coats. I'm 70 so I don't want to do anything else to this once I.m done. My Bronco which I painter with bed liner in a Forest Green and my Falcon think I don't love them anymore
Ha, yes, the "loss of love" happens when we have more than one drivable vehicle. Only one at a time can be driven, so some sit neglected.
That pickup should ride the best it can with fresh bushings and kingpins. New kingpins makes a difference.
If you would, for some of us newbies to the mid '60's pickups, would you consider sharing your front fender removal process ?
I need to remove mine on a '62 shortbox, and have read that it is suggested to drill the head off of the upper rear-most fender bolt. (accessed from inside cab).
My understanding is that the hidden caged nut may spin and break through the cage and then just spin. Any thoughts sir ?
T Auto Craft shop separating body and chassis next4 photos Trailor loaded ready for sand blastin Ugh hate these things but POR 15 and chassis black baking in this heat wave. Trouble was wife and daughter in law I was gone to pick up parts and it started raining they drug all in no order now Chassis finished blasting POR15 and painted with truck bed liner from O'Reilly's What a mess the pinon seal was from a 57-59, the axle seals I had to fabricate due to being a 5 hole even if you only use 4. Rest checked out replace both inner seal new crush and axle bearings well look what sand blasting exposed, friend that helps when he can said just get some flat bar and weld it below??
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
