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Old May 23, 2023 | 06:35 PM
  #1  
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Hot rear wheel

Hi all
​​​​​so after about a 200km drive home from the cottage in holiday traffic I backed into my driveway and immediately smelt burning brakes when I got out. It was coming from my rear driver's side (very hot to the touch).
So once it cooled down I took it apart and everything seemed OK as far as the slides/ pins/pads being free and lubed. The rotors and pads are a bit chewed up though. The piston at first was a little stiff but did go back in with some force.
Today I was beating myself up a little as I didnt find any obvious causes so I jacked it up again and spun the wheel while in neutral.
I did notice some light grinding scraping sounds coming from the hub. So I am know wondering if it is something with the parking brake (I never use) or maybe a wheel bearing? I did notice that there is a very small amount of in and out play on the wheel/axle which I thought maybe normal but when I tried the other side there was none.
I'm really hoping not wheel bearing.. I never pulled the rotor off to check the parking braked assembly but is it possible something happened in there even though I never touch it being afraid it will hang up.
Guess should mention 14 SCREW 4x4 3.5EB, 3.51 elocker rear
Appreciate any thoughts...
thanks
 
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Old May 26, 2023 | 07:08 AM
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Not sure I've anything to help you, buy I'm certainly sharing your misery.

I've got a 2000 Excursion, V10, 4x4, with something similar. I've replaced the rear bearings, seals, calipers, rotors, and pad. Replaced all 5 of the flexible brake lines and flushed the system. Still, the rears get warm enough to warp the rotors, the ABS light is intermittent, and the cruise control doesn't work.

It sure sounds like the system is holding pressure. The fronts have 30K miles on them, but there's no issue there. Thinking about swapping the master cylinder next....
 
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Old May 26, 2023 | 08:04 AM
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If only one side is overheating, replace the sticking caliper along with its rubber brake hose. Also, if the rotor has warped, replace it too.

 
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Old Jun 20, 2023 | 07:47 PM
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Thanks for advice, I am going to replace the caliper and flexline but I am not sure how to separate the flexline from the hardline...

it looks like the hard line just goes into the flex hose without a fitting?? Should be a fitting i can put a wrech on to thread out???
thanks for any help
 
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Old Jun 21, 2023 | 07:36 AM
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you can see flats for a wrench on each side of the wire hanger, that's the jct. These can be a bear to get apart, be careful to not let the hardline end nut turn or you might twist and kink the steel line.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2023 | 08:01 AM
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Well I thought that too at first but not sure now. Take a look at the new one it doesn't come apart at the bracket??
Are you Sure? Appreciate the response but want to be sure before I try wrenching on something that doesn't come apart and as you say kink the hard line.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 21, 2023 | 12:32 PM
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That hard line will get kinked, because the fitting is rusted to hell. It's not coming apart cleanly. You'll end up needing to cut the hard line, put a new fitting on it, and then attaching the flex hose fitting to that.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2023 | 02:02 PM
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Looks like a redesign. but ya it has to unscrew there. One trick to get that apart would be take hose off caliper and spin the host and hold the nut on the steel stationary. As mentioned you may have to go to the next jct. (on pumkin) and run new steel line.. If it looks sketchy at all replace it now while you're into it.
 
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