2002 F150 FX4 w/ 5.4L Engine is a genuine Ford reconditioned engine put in by a Ford mechanic. Is there any break in preceedure(s) I should follow?

 

Break in is as controversial as what weight oil you should use.

As far as I am concerned, break in is old school. I do not know of any new car manufacturer that has a procedure when you buy a new car. None use break in oil. None have a first service that under 2k. Well, maybe not none, but certainly not like it was 20-30 years ago. Some say never to use synthetic, but again, most car manufacturers are using synthetic from the factory.

Some say drive it hard, some say drive it easy. What you should do is understand their reasoning and jump on that band wagon.

Good luck coming to an answer that will fit you.

What I would do is drive it normally and change the oil out before 2k. Why? So I can see if there is anything I should be concerned with in the oil. If it looks like metallic paint, then you may have concerns.

 

Kind of what I told my wife. "We're still living in the 70's" with our thinking. There is a lack of definitive answers on the web too. At least we have a solid warranty just in case!

 

You don't have a flat tappet camshaft to worry about and the ring pack, assuming it is running on properly finished cylinders, will be broken in by the time the engine warms up for the first time. I would just use the engine as you normally would but is a good idea to keep an eye on things after an engine has been swapped just to make sure that there are no leaks or anything that got missed which could cause a problem.

 

Best I can find . . . gonna drive it smart. And change the oil (after inspection) at 1000 miles

 

First start the reman engine will be tight
I run them at 2000 or above for a few minutes, until they are piping hot
Then shut it down and cool completely
Repeat a few times until all the smoke from the new engine install is gone
Then drive as normal watching the gauges

 

What about towing with a new engine? Just a couple atv's

 

No problem after the run-in time

 

On all of my new vehicle engines, I go easy for 500 miles and vary the RPMs as much as possible

 

Let's talk reality (IMHO)...

You will see on the internet (not referencing anyone here BTW) who will say things like "Drive it like you stole it".....Anyone who just stomps on any new drivetrain component has absolutely no knowledge or caring for mechanicals......the damage that is done is beyond simple explanation and I will sum my thoughts up this way...

Want it to go fast- break it in fast...Want it to live long, break it in slow........

Here's what I do and have recommend to anyone who has asked me regarding new/reman (OEM) engine break-in...

While much of the engine components are seated, there are some (such as piston rings) that can take up to 1,000 miles to fully seat. Here's what I do with every new OEM engine...for the 1st 1,000 miles:

1. I lock out overdrive and drive normally (city & hwy)- this keeps the rpm's constantly varied...do not beat on the engine

2. At 500 miles, I change the oil & filter to remove any mfg contaminents that may exist.

3. At 800-1,000 miles.....we go for a long trip....something in the 2-4 hour driving range, running 70-80 mph with the overdrive off (locked out)- this keeps the RPMs higher and again, varies the rpm's by the natural flow of traffic and the drivers foot..

4. Upon my return, I change oil & filter.
I guarantee you engine will have a much different, smoother "feel" to it. Max mpg's though are typically seen at around 10k miles

For oem remanufactured, like a new engine they have been run on a bench to do the initial break-in, etc. so unless the docs you have received state otherwise, no special break-in oil should be required. I would IMHO change oil at 50 miles just to ensure ANY contaminants/break-in particulates are removed..... these engines are typically done by 3rd party whose shops may or may not be as "hospital clean" as the oem... so just to make sure, it's cheap insurance. After the 1,000 mile duration I would then add about 1/3 of a bottle (about 3 oz) of ZDDP at each oil change. Although you don't have a flat tappet cam the rest of the drivetrain (bearings, etc.) will benefit by this.... especially on the initial cold engine startup (first thing in the morning)..... this is based upon a long discussion/recommendation I had with Ron Eskenderian (Isky Cams) when the "zinc" reduction issue 1st reared its ugly head!

 

Please share your facts on this one. I know of no manufacturer that breaks in every engine before it is sold.

Technology marches on and so much old school should be put to rest. When I started the automotive industry 40 years ago, most of the stuff I was told to be facts were proved to be myths. There are thousands if not millions of engines built every year that never get 'broken in' the old school way. None of these engines are failing. That's the facts based on real world results.

 

sent by PM