Switching to synthetic...concerns?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Austin, Tx
Switching to synthetic...concerns?
First of all...thanks FTE members for all the great info.
Anyways, my wife's car has approx 70k miles on it(Saturn...please no comments on the car. I didn't buy it). She bought the car new and has always taken the car to a "quick" lube center. She has never put synthetic oil in her car. So, I just recently started using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in hopes that her car will last longer and run a little better. I read in another post that the synthetic oil will wash away all the "sludge" from the previous non-synthetic oil changes and that the sludge will clog the oil filter. If this is true, should I change the oil again? She has only driven 1000 miles since I started using synthetic.
I also added a quart of Slick 50. After reading a post on this forum, I know now that Slick 50 is no good. I won't ever use slick 50 again.
Thanks in advance for all the comments.
Anyways, my wife's car has approx 70k miles on it(Saturn...please no comments on the car. I didn't buy it). She bought the car new and has always taken the car to a "quick" lube center. She has never put synthetic oil in her car. So, I just recently started using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in hopes that her car will last longer and run a little better. I read in another post that the synthetic oil will wash away all the "sludge" from the previous non-synthetic oil changes and that the sludge will clog the oil filter. If this is true, should I change the oil again? She has only driven 1000 miles since I started using synthetic.
I also added a quart of Slick 50. After reading a post on this forum, I know now that Slick 50 is no good. I won't ever use slick 50 again.
Thanks in advance for all the comments.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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If it acts like other reasonably clean engines I've seen switched to the Supersyn you will notice it darker at 2500-3000 miles .
In Austin TX that car would be a good candidate for the 0/40 Mobil year round . The only 40 wt that has the EC rating along with ACEA A3 . Probably Mobil's best Supersyn when an engine allows for the viscosity
In Austin TX that car would be a good candidate for the 0/40 Mobil year round . The only 40 wt that has the EC rating along with ACEA A3 . Probably Mobil's best Supersyn when an engine allows for the viscosity
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 432
Likes: 3
From: Oregon Coast
There should not be much sludge in a 70,000 mile motor. I wouldn't worry about it. When I put my wrecking yard engine in my van with unknown milage I just kept changing my oil out weekly until the oil would stay clean.. Now my Mobil-1 goes 3,000 miles easy and only darkens a little. For the weekly oil changes I have found that Valvoline cleans up an engine pretty quick.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 316
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Don't apologize for a saturn - the general tried very hard to make a quality car. I've got a 93 sl1 (sohc engine) with at least 200,000 miles on it (the odometer quit at 155,000). Went through a period where I wanted it to die (don't ask) and didn't change the oil for 30,000 miles. Had a change of heart, ran some engine cleaner through it, and it's run fine since then. I use wallyworld oil and filters every three months.
Had to replace the horn, a motor mount, alternator, brake shoes (rear), and a clutch disc in 11 years. Not too shabby.
You might want to change the oil filter a few times after dumping the slick 50 in it....
Bob
Had to replace the horn, a motor mount, alternator, brake shoes (rear), and a clutch disc in 11 years. Not too shabby.
You might want to change the oil filter a few times after dumping the slick 50 in it....
Bob
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 522
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From: Warren, MI
IMO saturn's are the BEST cars out there for how much they are. Lately the prices have been driven up a little bit. But over all they are outstanding cars.
But who knows, im just 1 person.
Adam
But who knows, im just 1 person.
Adam
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
Syn should not cause a problem, you can change the filter if you like since it is slightly possbile ther might be sludge from dino.
Unless you live where it gets below about 0, I would stick with the 5W30 Mobil 1. I tried 0W30 in a chebby twice in the winter here, it gets maybe to 20, and the engine made a lot of clatter on startup compared to the 5W. That engine had about 50K miles on it when I tried the 0W30 but it used 5W30 since new except for the test. Cold be different for your engine but there is no real purpose to 0W for most of us.
I don't think 0 weight oil has any benefit unless you live say in Alaska. It just isn't that cold for most of us.
I have used 5W30 Moblie 1 for almost 25 years and been entirely happy with it. Only time I didn't like Mobil 1 was when I tried 0W30.
Just my experience and totally unscientific,
Jim Henderson
Unless you live where it gets below about 0, I would stick with the 5W30 Mobil 1. I tried 0W30 in a chebby twice in the winter here, it gets maybe to 20, and the engine made a lot of clatter on startup compared to the 5W. That engine had about 50K miles on it when I tried the 0W30 but it used 5W30 since new except for the test. Cold be different for your engine but there is no real purpose to 0W for most of us.
I don't think 0 weight oil has any benefit unless you live say in Alaska. It just isn't that cold for most of us.
I have used 5W30 Moblie 1 for almost 25 years and been entirely happy with it. Only time I didn't like Mobil 1 was when I tried 0W30.
Just my experience and totally unscientific,
Jim Henderson
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Originally posted by jim henderson
Syn should not cause a problem, you can change the filter if you like since it is slightly possbile ther might be sludge from dino.
Unless you live where it gets below about 0, I would stick with the 5W30 Mobil 1. I tried 0W30 in a chebby twice in the winter here, it gets maybe to 20, and the engine made a lot of clatter on startup compared to the 5W. That engine had about 50K miles on it when I tried the 0W30 but it used 5W30 since new except for the test. Cold be different for your engine but there is no real purpose to 0W for most of us.
I don't think 0 weight oil has any benefit unless you live say in Alaska. It just isn't that cold for most of us.
I have used 5W30 Moblie 1 for almost 25 years and been entirely happy with it. Only time I didn't like Mobil 1 was when I tried 0W30.
Just my experience and totally unscientific,
Jim Henderson
Syn should not cause a problem, you can change the filter if you like since it is slightly possbile ther might be sludge from dino.
Unless you live where it gets below about 0, I would stick with the 5W30 Mobil 1. I tried 0W30 in a chebby twice in the winter here, it gets maybe to 20, and the engine made a lot of clatter on startup compared to the 5W. That engine had about 50K miles on it when I tried the 0W30 but it used 5W30 since new except for the test. Cold be different for your engine but there is no real purpose to 0W for most of us.
I don't think 0 weight oil has any benefit unless you live say in Alaska. It just isn't that cold for most of us.
I have used 5W30 Moblie 1 for almost 25 years and been entirely happy with it. Only time I didn't like Mobil 1 was when I tried 0W30.
Just my experience and totally unscientific,
Jim Henderson
It's not all about the prefix " 0 " . If not already the newer Mobil 5/30 would qualify as a 0/30 in terms of cold weather performance so you've been using it along time . In fact , if you have used Mobil the amount of time posted you no doubt ran some early very low VI formulations and maybe even Mobil's 20wt or latter 30 wts that sheared to 20wt. There is not a minus "0" designation so one should take into account the MVRT pumping spec and cP @ -20 or -30 along with the vi @ 40c when choosing an oil along with the upper end vi @ 212f
It's all about how it pumps vs the ambient temp and to run the highest vi one can with the highest HTHS without increased bearing wear and noticable increase in fuel milaege . Also , anytime a guy can use a 80 vi oil @ 40c without problems in -20f ambient IMO he's going to have a winner all year round in Austin ,TX and most likely consume less oil with a Saturn engine and that I think it will do if 5/30 synthetic is ran in it .
Just my opinion and
Happy Thanksgiving to all !
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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IF START DO NOT SWITCH KEEP USING THE SAME OIL ARE ALL YOUR MONEY WILL GO DOWN WITH THE OIL AND THE SYNTHETIC WON'T DO THE JOB I ALSO HEARD THAT YOU DON'T WAT TO AND ANY SLICK 50 TO MUCH AND DON'T USE IT THROW IT AWAY
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 9
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From: Mount Vernon, OH
The thing about not switching form standard to synthetic oil is an old wives tale. Use the same viscosity that you use now if you are happy with it, you should have no problems. As the guy before mentioned, don't use oil addatives, they are a waste of money and put things in your motor that you really don't want there in the first place. Also use a quality filter, steer well clear of Fram, they are one of the worst things you can put on your truck, unless you like cardboard and glue circulating in your oil! Hope this helps
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,136
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From: Scenic Wisconsin
I'll agree with half of cobra's post - changing to syn like M1 is no big deal. Personally, I don't think you'll really benefit in any significant way, but that's just my opinion.
There's nothing wrong with Fram filters, either. Okay, flame away...
There's nothing wrong with Fram filters, either. Okay, flame away...
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