When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Seems at the busiest time, needing my 85 ,I may be suffering from firewall flex ,hydraulic clutch seems to sometimes engage etc…..Anyone have any tips on diagnosing this .Found information on the search but not to specific .TR
Have someone work the clutch while you observe the master from the engine compartment side. You can also put your hand on it and feel it move. Look for rust and cracks near the mounting area.
Thanks, ,will do, remember reading about this years ago.Owning this truck since new , I have had the master cylinder go south and since plastic swapped the master ,the hose and slave cylinder twice .I have heard a creaking sound lately.TR
Thanks, ,will do, remember reading about this years ago.Owning this truck since new , I have had the master cylinder go south and since plastic swapped the master ,the hose and slave cylinder twice .I have heard a creaking sound lately.TR
If it is cracked, the master will tend to move at a angle, and it can ruin the seals in the master and cause it to start leaking.
Ha ha Just my luck , a pita install .Could not see the pictures at oilburners but watched a you tube video to see actually what it would take .Going to print the info from oilburners(ford) tsb link have that on hand also.I think i may take my seat out for more room . Studying up more for this task to make it easier -get tips . Oh well just installed a steering wheel cam and high beam switch with a new stalk on my 89 jeep xj project. Also changed the solenoids/fluid filter in the transmission. That truck is a tilt column and ended up cutting the jacks and resoldering -another pita . Sure would be nice to have a lift and stand under a truck workin than on back tasting xmission fluid . Thanks for the info, Everything helps .I do remember swapping the master for this clutch 20 years back .No leaks , just losing clutch more and more TR
It's amazing how much room you get to work under the dash when you go to the trouble to take the seat out. Taking it out is more work but worth it in my opinion.
The original ford reinforcement plate was pretty thick plate. It only incorporates a portion of the steering shaft cover bolts. The ones available at bronco graveyard go all around the steering wheel shaft. Some guys remove the steering wheel to install it. One guy posted here how he cut the ring that goes around the steering column. I don't recall if it was one cut and then flexed into place or if he cut out a piece to make it fit. Rather than remove the steering wheel I think I would modify the bracket. If the cut for the steering column makes it too flexible get two brackets and make a cut on the other side and overlap them. Not removing the steering column should save some time.
Good info but being retired and having other vehicles I would like to install it the best /right way . My luck I cut flex in place and right back to square 1 .I am going to research this heavily before installing thanks TR
I actually watche$ a guy on you tube weld a homemade plate from the outside ,wonder how long that lasted ,my luck if I tried that I know I would burn things close and perhaps ruin parts lol TR
Good info but being retired and having other vehicles I would like to install it the best /right way . My luck I cut flex in place and right back to square 1 .I am going to research this heavily before installing thanks TR
It would be nice to know how the modified reinforcement plate worked out for the poster. Maybe that poster will chime in? I don't remember who it was. I used the Ford designed plate. It only took me 2 hours to install. Could have been less time if I had a helper available that day. The Ford plate also had the flange for bolts to the tunnel as I see on the bronco graveyard plate. I didn't need the tunnel bolts but can add them later if needed. I don't have a lot of corrosion so the plate without the tunnel connection gave me enough stiffness.
I thought you were in need of using your truck and time was an issue. But if you want to remove the steering column go for it.
Looking at the BG plate there does not seem to be much contribution to stiffness to the skinny section on the left side. I would try to not cut away any of the bolt holes. The poster that did that maintained the bolt holes IIRC. Only make the cut needed to get it over the column. Then it also has the flange for tunnel bolts if more support is needed.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.