You can't read any codes, because there isn't a computer to provide them.
Two things set the check engine light on these trucks, no oil pressure, or overheated. There are three water temp sensors on the engine. One runs the cold idle solenoid and timing advance solenoid, its on the front of the passenger head. The other two are in the drivers head, but I don't remember exactly where each is. One is for the gauge, the second is just an on/off switch that pegs the gauge on hot and triggers the check engine light if the engine gets too warm. That switch sensor is known to fail in the tripped (hot) position and might be what is causing your check engine light to stay on. Might be possible that the previous owner swapped the wires to the two sensors, I'm not sure if thats possible and what would happen. A couple things for you to check. Right now I'm having a brain fart if there is a separate coolant hot warning light, or just the one check engine light? But yah you'll want to get that fixed. If the gauge doesn't work after testing out the sensors, get an aftermarket gauge, having some understanding of actual engine temp is crucial. Could be a lot of reasons it might be overheating. Also it is normal for some coolant to end up in the overflow tank. If its pushing out of the overflow tank, thats a problem.

I'm not sure I'd trust a pillowcase over a filter. I guess some pillow covers are supposed to be a certain size to keep out dust mites, not sure what you are using...

Lift pump isn't too bad to do, easy to get to from underneath. Think I had someone holding it from above while I bolted it in from below. Not sure it was needed, but he was hanging out in the garage anyway. Probably worth swapping out the loop of hose that runs to it. You want to keep that as a loop to keep the hard line from vibrating as the engine runs.

 

My first thought when first posted, was....
Does your Mother, Girl Friend or Wife know you are using her pillow Cases?
How are you washing them, in your Maytag?
Throwing them into the land Fill?

Why don`t you go back to burning Diesel instead of UEO.
Fix, repair all the little problems and get it to operate on Diesel,
what it was originally built to run on from the factory.

Make sure the fuel system is air tight, not sucking in air some place,
that will for sure shut you down, which may be your problem when
stopping at a red light.

Replace the Lift Pump if you see it leaking or your oil level is increasing.
Replace the Vacuum Pump if it is not working.
No vacuum = almost no Brakes. Been there, when you are giving the peddle
all you have, and the truck isn`t slowing down as fast as it should, and your
closing speed is rapidly approaching, the Pucker Syndrome will be puckering
in the whole Bench Seat....Been there...done that.

Get a Lazer Heat Gun pointer thing to see exactly what the Engine/Radiator
temps really are. Don`t rely on the Dash Gauge.
You can`t guess your way to fixing your Engine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ter-63985.html


Your truck did not Break down, I just failed to move forward.


Goat

 

The coolant was pouring over the overflow tank so it was definitely overheating. I was wondering why there was 2 engine lights but know it makes sense. I will check the wires for the coolant temp sensor. If it isnt the wires should I just go straight to replacing the sensor or is there other things that could be wrong?
I am not too worried about the wmo being filtered with the pillow case. I have heard of multiple people using 10 micron filters, the pillowcase is atleast 10 microns if not less. The fuel line looks to have already been replaced so I don’t think I’m going to replace it. I swapped to my tank of diesel but the lines are filled with wmo already so it won’t change anything for a while. I tried to start it after charging the battery’s overnight on my trickle charger but it still was cranking slow. I’m going to charge them fully and try again. I also think I am just going to remove thermostat for now. It is hot enough where I live that it doesn’t need it.
Honestly I am surprised by how good the brakes are without the vacuum pump. they are hard but still stop well. I am going to try a new belt once I get it running and hopefully that fixes it but worse case I just go to a hydro boost system.
I am going to get a lift pump tomorrow, am I good to just get one from autozone or orilleys?
also should I be concerned about the slow cranking? It doesn’t sound like it’s galloping or making any weird noises but it’s just concerning because it usually cranks faster. Is there any tests I can do see if there is a issue internally?

 

up top of the pre powerstroke page, in the bottom of the sticky posts is 'how to tell la good starter from a bad starter"
a bad starter can not turn the engine fast enough to fire off.
you should not crank the engine more than 30-45 seconds, than let it sit for at least two minutes to cool off.
it is very easy to overheat and burn these starters up.

 

Thermostat doesnt just regulate engine temperature but also warms up the engine faster so moisture in the oil from condensation is evaporated. Also its kind of ridiculous everything you have to remove just to change it out so you might as well put a new one in.

 

And if you change the thermostat, Motorcraft or international only. Parts store t-stats tend to fail closed in these engines overheating them.

 

Okay, I pulled my starter and it is definitely bad. I am going to get a new one, any recommendations on what brand?
I am going to get it running with the new pump before I do the thermostat, but when I do it I will definitely use oem. I will install the new pump tomorrow and probably try to bump start it, then get the starter installed.

 

i use a local rebuilding service. much better products than auto parts stores, because their name and reputation is on the unit.
unlike auto store parts that go to a giant rebuilder that replaces what is bad and call it good enough. they don't care because no one will ever know who "rebuilt" it.

 

I use the Power Master 9050, as do a lot of people on the forum.
Brand new, and American made.
Been using mine a good 4 years. Search for a good price, saw them
on E-bay for $197, up to - $250 depending on what retailer is selling them.

I was searching about 6 weeks ago and found a return for $149 and free
shipping from Speed Way Motors. Was a return and in the original
packaging.

I haven`t seen a rebuild shop in like forever.

Charlie

 

Wow!
my rebuild shop is $125 with all wear parts replaced

 

I got the starter and fuel pump installed. I primed the fuel system using the filter shrewder valve but it still did it start. When I was cranking it over it hit a couple spots where it slowed down but the places it slowed down didnt seem to be consistent at all. It also hit one point where it turned very slowly and the main power to the starter got very hot. But after I let the starter cool down it cranked fast again. By the time I got the fuel system primed the battery’s we’re pretty drained. I threw the charger back on it and will try again in the morning. If it doesn’t start what should I check next? Also I took the air filter off to use a little starting fluid and there was a small amount of grayish oil in the intake. I know there is supposed to be some oil from the crankcase vent but it is it bad that it was grey?

 

Ok, I got it started this morning. She is definitely still running ruff though. I attached a video and right after the video she died. I think it has a bad missfire or multiple misfires. What should i look at next? Could it be a injector? Also I would like to get it compression tested before I put more money into her. how hard is it to do? Or how much will a shop charge to do it?

 

Ok, I got it started this morning. She is definitely still running ruff though. I attached a video and right after the video she died. I think it has a bad missfire or multiple misfires. What should i look at next? Could it be a injector? Also I would like to get it compression tested before I put more money into her. how hard is it to do? Or how much will a shop charge to do it?

 

no video shows up. are you still running on waste oil, or is it now running on diesel?

 

I don’t know why but the video won’t go through. I switched it to the diesel tank but I don’t think it ran long enough to get past the wmo.