There's an old saying that seems to fit here. "Beat to fit. Paint to match."

Running w/out the ebps won't do any harm for the short term. It'll just throw off the PCM's fuel strategy a little. I wouldn't consider it any kind of long term "hack", but it'll get ya home.

 

As far as i know,EBPS has nothing to do with fueling.
Only for controlling EBPV.

Can't say anything about removing the tube in a van.
Mine's so rusted in to the manifold,that i haven't messed with it.

Also,no dual alternators so no help from there either.

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I'd wait 'til after the rafting trip...in case you don't make it back, you won't have wasted all that effort.

 

I think you got it backwards. I don't think that tube and sensor have any effect on the EBPV but is used by the computer for fueling. Mine was inop when I bought mine but I did not notice any difference when I replaced it.

 

Well it seems the sensor isn’t working right now anyhow so plugging the manifold and a dangling sensor shouldn’t make a difference from where you have been recently IMHO.

 

FYI...

 

Well I'll be...thanks for that info, Sous.

 

Okay guys, I'm really at the end of my rope with this thing now. Spent an hour trying to bend this aftermarket tube with no success. The Ford tube is fairly malleable, but I'm fairly certain the threads are buggered, so it's not hooking up. No Ford dealer in town has one on hand.

Is there any reason why I couldn't put a piece of flexible hose or something in it's place? This thing is just a pressure gauge after all. Would there be any issues with using something like that at the manifold? I need to get this buttoned up ASAP, so any suggestions are welcome.

 

i bent a brake line up for mine and flared the ends with original fittings

a hose wont last long at 1200f

 

Just needs to made of a material that can withstand the heat and heat cycles in order to provide a reliable pressure rating to the PCM. As knottyrope mentioned, 1200° or more would be my bottom end of the expected heat tolerances of the material.

 

I think i got it just right.

 

Yes, I see that!

 

So I've come to the conclusion that installing the EBP tube on the ambo is not humanly possible without doing a procedure similar to what BWST described. I just capped the manifold, installed the new sensor, capped it on in the bracket and I'm calling this a day for now.

The most galling part of this whole ordeal is that the tube was really clean. Hardly any soot came out. I could have just replaced the sensor and been fine, but live and learn I guess. The old sensor was definitely shot, the new one is now reading atmospheric pressure just fine.

I could be imagining things, but I just took the van on a 20 mile drive and could swear it shifted a bit smoother and was a bit snappier, so who knows.

At this point is there any good reason to get the tube back in there? I'd like to put a Hydra chip in there soon, so will I benefit from having an accurate EBP sensor?

 

New update - just when I thought it was shifting a little smoother, the overdrive light started flashing when the vehicle was in park only. It's throwing a P0705 code - TR Sensor Circuit in Range Fault. It runs and shifts great, what gives here? This began after I took it to have the tires rotated.

 

The range sensor is on the drivers side of the transmission. Very easy to ID, it's the sensor that the shift cable connects to. I would start w/ cleaning and greasing the connector. They are kind of exposed and the connector is pretty good at collecting road grime. Might look over the shift components too, see if anything looks recently relocated. Who knows you could have accidently kicked it or something during your epic battle w/ the ebps tube. Causality of war.