brake issue
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 32
Likes: 6
brake issue
after I fixed the engine stalls and power loss I took it out for a test drive and the LR caliper seized and caught fire. was small and nothing serious. I get it back home replace the caliper, bleed all lines. put a gallon of brake fluid through the whole system so it's all fresh.
decided to flush the power steering since the whine was a little loud. well ever since I bled the PS when the engine is running I have a spongy brake pedal that is also sort of springy.
when I turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off I can hear something like a gurgling sound. I'm assuming it's air in the system but it also might not be. wondering if this sound is normal with the engine off or if it IS air still in there. I've cycled lock to lock and pumping brakes over 100x by now.
I just wanted some of y'all's opinions before I start replacing even more parts. it's what I get for letting it sit for 1 year +.
it's a 2001 f250 4x4. any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. mercon V was used for the PS flush.
decided to flush the power steering since the whine was a little loud. well ever since I bled the PS when the engine is running I have a spongy brake pedal that is also sort of springy.
when I turn the wheel lock to lock with the engine off I can hear something like a gurgling sound. I'm assuming it's air in the system but it also might not be. wondering if this sound is normal with the engine off or if it IS air still in there. I've cycled lock to lock and pumping brakes over 100x by now.
I just wanted some of y'all's opinions before I start replacing even more parts. it's what I get for letting it sit for 1 year +.
it's a 2001 f250 4x4. any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. mercon V was used for the PS flush.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Sounds like air in the system. You may need to pull a vacuum on the system. When I had a similar issue I rigged a hand primer bulb to a vacuum pump and used it to seal at the mouth of the reservoir. Just push the tube all the way through the bulb so the vacuum doesn't collapse it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Have you ever seen the primer bulbs they use on boats for the fuel and 2 cycle oil tanks? Get one of them from Walmart or wherever. Instead of putting a separate hose in either side, pass 1 hose all the way through. You don't need much sticking out but it does need to seal both ends of the bulb. Hook the other hose end to your vacuum source and wedge the bulb into the mouth of the reservoir but don't let the hose end go into fluid. May need to lower the level a little but no big deal. If you can maybe try having someone pump the brakes a couple times while it's under vacuum.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 32
Likes: 6
I went and rented a kit from the parts store. it has a leak from somewhere but I can't figure out where the only line I removed was the return line. going to try putting a beefier clamp on it.
but is there a way to find out where the leak is located?
but is there a way to find out where the leak is located?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
The return port is your air leak. It's the only place in the entire system where you'd have suction instead of pressure. Did you install a new gasket when you hooked it back up.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
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there was no gasket to be replaced. I only pulled the line off the nipple. I just removed the return line completely and had a friend block off both ports, the one at the hydro boost and the one at the reservoir. still a slow leak. and it's not leaking at the plug from the vacuum. I have fluid on top of the plug for leak inspection.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
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hmmm, I am noticing a shimmer in the new fluid. bits of metal shavings. could this be from the pump itself? or maybe the hydro boost?
I just hear the stories of people replacing the hydro boost, the master cylinder, the PS pump, all new lines and still having the pedal sink to the floor. what would y'all replace first?
I just hear the stories of people replacing the hydro boost, the master cylinder, the PS pump, all new lines and still having the pedal sink to the floor. what would y'all replace first?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
There are 2 return lines for the pump. One is just a hose barb type on the side of the reservoir, and the other is a threaded port on the pump itself. The discharge port leaves the pump and goes to the hydro boost. From there a high pressure line goes from the booster to the steering gear. A low pressure return goes back to the pump. From the steering gear a low pressure line goes to the fluid cooler, then on back to the pump. The return line between the hydro and the pump only sees action when the brakes are activated. The rest of the time fluid should be passing right through the booster and down to the gearbox. Does all that sound right?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
hmmm, I am noticing a shimmer in the new fluid. bits of metal shavings. could this be from the pump itself? or maybe the hydro boost?
I just hear the stories of people replacing the hydro boost, the master cylinder, the PS pump, all new lines and still having the pedal sink to the floor. what would y'all replace first?
I just hear the stories of people replacing the hydro boost, the master cylinder, the PS pump, all new lines and still having the pedal sink to the floor. what would y'all replace first?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 32
Likes: 6
I decided to put a filter on the end of the return and flush the system some more. I didn't really get too much on the filter. but I did notice something.
going from lock to lock the fluid was visibly clear and see through while flushing. once I added in the brake pumps the fluid then went foamy. lots and lots of bubbles. but if I went back to flushing from the steering wheel it would return back to normal clear.
what do you think this means?
I'm also going to look into buying a filter for the system
going from lock to lock the fluid was visibly clear and see through while flushing. once I added in the brake pumps the fluid then went foamy. lots and lots of bubbles. but if I went back to flushing from the steering wheel it would return back to normal clear.
what do you think this means?
I'm also going to look into buying a filter for the system
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Try putting the hydro return into a separate jug or bucket. That should help keep from recirculating the foam(air), and keep it topped up with fresh fluid. Bleed the system a few more times like that and see if things get any better. If they do then likely just trapped air, if not the we start looking for the source of the air. The pump is the only place it could come from if it's not just trapped air.