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I did not put maximum load on the engine at that time. As mentioned above, it runs 5⁰ / 9⁰F ECT warmer than usual. I suspect that the fan clutch is not working properly.
The customer brought the truck to me because of white smoke and engine noise:
Of course, he couldn't have estimated that the repair would be so expensive (new heads, new turbo and many other small things).
That's why I couldn't repair it any further and didn't install a new fan clutch.
I have a lot of work to do here, but I will probably have to fix the truck at my own expense.
As soon as I have the truck here, I will drive it with a high boost and see how it reacts. But I think I already know the answer :-/
Hartwig, it's been said that the intake hose has a higher pressure than the radiator hose, but I don't know if that is true or not. I have my additional head degas circuit tied into it, but at some point, I'm going to change it to the radiator hose instead. I have my coolant pressure transducer off the radiator hose.
So Hartwig - earlier I was wondering about the hose that connects to the Intake Manifold (EGR coolant circuit) possibly being plugged (now I know it is not).
Now I wonder what would happen if you INTENTIONALLY blocked it off (clamp the hose closed). Can you check to see if the pressure behaves the same way with that hose clamped (install clamp on the intake manifold side of the hose tee)? Only clamp for a very short while.
And I do know that it will take a while for you to get back to the truck, lol!
I do not have the truck here Mark. It is with the owner 300mls away from me.
The idea of you is good, I will check it as soon as the truck is here.
Here it is now 11.20pm.
Good night gentleman and thanks for your thoughts.
See you tomorrow.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have been away for the last number of days aiding my aging parents get ready to move/downsize to a condo as my Dad now has severe dementia and just read thru this posting. This seems to be a real difficult issue to solve and I am just as curious as everyone else and would like to see what the solution is.
I see it far too often where companies offer/push products that are deemed to be high quality and then issues arise and they do not stand behind these products even if they did not directly manufacture these items. Service means everything and here they are missing a perfect opportunity to work with you even after acknowledging your superior workmanship.
I find it very hard to believe it is an injector cup issue. Is there a test to dismiss this possibility? This more appears that DK is "pushing the problem down the road".
I filmed the coolant pressure behavior on my own 6.0 today. The truck has a camper body and weighs 6200Kg / 14000lbs. In normal conditions it has a coolant pressure of 9-11psi.
I drove up a long 12% grade with many tight serpentines. The coolant pressure increases proportionally with temps.
At 98°C /208°F EOT and 16.5psi coolant pressure, I switch the fan clutch to full load. Despite a constant load, ECT and EOT drop evenly.
If I continue the game, I have the same temps under load as on level road cruising.