Good evening! I began writing this as I sat in an empty parking lot waiting for my truck (02 excursion, 7.3) to cool off so I could drive it home...

I will attempt to make this as succinct as possible (TLDR below!), but I want to give as much information as to not be caught by something unexpected or something that I was not aware could be the problem. I anticipate this story is going to be a lot to digest. I will go in chronologic order to best help the story.

I purchased this awesome truck from a different state than I was living in back at beginning of last year. Multiple flights to go look at it, buy it, and move it to storage since I was moving to its location in less than a year. Went to move it about 200 miles and got about 30 before I pull into a store parking lot and notice the trail of oil beneath me. Surely that is not the awesome truck I just bought right? Wrong. It was spraying oil absolutely everywhere. Super concerned. Called dealer, he said he would fix it. Towed it back, said it was a bad o-ring on HPOP. Great. Flew in a while later to move it to a different location about 60 miles away instead. Moved it and stored with no problem.

A few weeks ago, I drove to the store, came back out, backed out of parking spot and truck died. Weird. It was running fine prior to this. Got some help, pushed it into its spot, saw the oil was low, added some oil, she started right up. I noticed some ATF on the ground and around lid of power steering pump but figured it had overflowed while turning/braking with no engine. Drove home, no problem, however I now notice a "bump" right at the beginning of pressing the brakes. This is persistent and only occurs when not extremely slowly pressing on the brake pedal. Doesn't affect operation of the brakes that I am aware but just noting it.

Fast forward a week or so...The evening of 13 days ago I realized that I needed to fill up my truck as I had to drive 50 miles a day, one way, every day for work the following week. So I started my truck up after it was sitting for a week and drove to one of the nearest fuel stations. When I started it, the ABS line was on for maybe 100 ft (probably unrelated but figured I would mention it). It shut off and never turned back on. I have never had it come on before. When I got to the station, I shut the truck off, opened the fuel tank, poured some diesel kleen in, and filled 'er up. Went to start? Nothing. Just cranking. Sounded healthy but no starting. Called some family members who are all about diesels/auto in general but live out of state and got some ideas. Tried some "in the field" things with no avail. Tried some brief diagnostics since I had no tools with me but, again, no luck. Eventually a friendly person came by and was able to tow this heavy paperweight back to a parking spot for me. Tentatively decided it was a fuel issue. Ordered a fuel pump and filter element and got roadside assistance to tow it home (11 days ago; it was quite the event, I'll tell you...). The next day, changed fuel filter with aftermarket filter since previous owner did the same and I had no OEM cap. Being the fuel bowl was completely full when I removed the filter, I was skeptical that fuel was the issue. So I kept digging and discovered that maybe it is the CPS. So, for a quick and relatively inexpensive "is it this or not" I bought an aftermarket CPS from local parts store and put it in. Attempted starting it but because of all the times I had tried cranking it over the previous three-ish days, batteries were dead. Batteries got charged up and she started right up. Great! I also got a two-for-one. The o-ring was torn on the CPS and I think that was causing an oil leak because much less oil was leaking out of the bottom now. Win!

Five and four days ago, drive to close work (just over seven miles one way), mostly no problems except I noticed that the fuel cap was now leaking. I figured okay, it is leaking...whatever. Easy fix. Tightened it. The leak is mostly gone, though, not totally. The fuel gauge says otherwise. As I was driving I could literally see the needle go dropping. May Day! Diesel is over $5 a gallon! I did the math and supposedly the truck was at like 1.3 mpg?!? Uhhh... I expect the worst and look under the truck. Nearly nothing is dripping at all. I would expect gallons of diesel to be dropping out of the bottom. Look in engine compartment and just a film of diesel is on the back of the bowl. No idea where the fuel could be going. No smoke of any kind, any color. Actually, for as long as I have owned the truck, it has never produced any smoke at all. Everyone talks about all this black smoke but I don't believe it! I feel like it is a weird/stupid question but is no black smoke like.. a problem? Ha.

Three days ago, drove to close work. Drove at about 6 AM and 60 F, no issue. Drove home that afternoon when it was probably 75 F. Made it almost home but died less than a mile away from home while waiting to turn left while on a busy four lane highway. Awesome. No sputtering or anything just on one second and then dead. Once again, I was pleased that a friendly onlooker who lived in my neighborhood was able to tow me home. At this point panicking because truck was blocking neighbors' driveways and it was on the wrong side of the road. I had to get it out of the road. I went inside to take care of some things and then went back outside to try and push it to turn it around and get it in front of my driveway at the very least. No dice. Way too heavy on incline. Out of ****s and giggles, I attempted to start it. It started up. Drove it into the driveway and parked it. At this point, I was trying to rack my brain. Only thing I could think of is a correlation between temperature and starting conditions. I noted that it was highly, highly recommended to use only Ford products for electronics (CPS). So, I ordered authentic Ford CPS and I figured while I am at it, I know the filter elements that are not connected to the lid are better, I will buy an OEM element and OEM cap. They showed up yesterday.

Then comes to today. Took off aftermarket filter which exposed a completely full fuel bowl as expected, followed the installation instructions to a T for the element and cap (I do not think it is leaking at all!). Then went beneath the truck, removed the aftermarket CPS, oiled up the Ford CPS and installed that one. Was feeling pretty good, this is going to fix everything! Drove to the store to test it (maybe two miles?), shut it off and started it right when I got to the store and it started. Awesome. Realized I forgot something so went back home. Went inside to get it and as I was walking from front door to the truck, dead... Cool, so still at square one. Started disconnecting and cleaning any connectors I can find on the engine, wiping them down, jiggling wires, ensuring everything is seated. Wiped out the valley since it was full of oil and diesel. I was unable to disconnect the IDM harnesses but the wires and connectors all felt solid. I would imagine if the IDM itself was the problem, it would not predictably start with a cooling of the engine and run fine while cold.

I sat there doing research trying to figure out what it could be. I saw a post about IPR valve and how you can test it by getting to temp, cooling it with ice/water and if it starts, you found the culprit. I also read to check the nut on the back which seemed tight. So I sat there with it started for like ten plus minutes and it would not die. So I gathered my things for a journey of a lifetime and went for a drive. Sure enough, it died just after I turned around to come home (the farthest point of my journey; just over a mile away). Upon taking a look at the engine, there was already oil in the valley after just cleaning it... (could this be the culprit? At the very least, something to address I would say). Applied some cooling to the IPR, not a single inkling of success to be had. It did not change a thing. So I am unsure how "diagnostic" that test was, but it seemingly did nothing. Jogged home. Came back in a few hours, started up, drove home and here we are. Also, the fuel gauge seems to just be kind of wild. It floats between 3/4 tank and just under full so I do not think I am burning THAT much fuel just looks that way.

It seems like SOMETHING just needs cooling for it to start, I just do not know what needs to be cooled...

TLDR; 1. O-ring on HPOP was replaced by dealer after purchasing since it was pouring oil out of it, 2. truck died in parking lot, added oil and it started up, 3. truck died and wouldn't start with no obvious issues, cranked fine, 4. replaced fuel filter and CPS with aftermarket, started but only until reaching operating temp and fuel cap was leaking, 5. replaced fuel filter and CPS with Ford branded, 6. tried cooling IPR with ice/water when no start condition, wouldn't start.


The only modifications I have done are intake and 4" exhaust. I have an EGT, boost, and trans temp gauges. It used to have a tuner but I removed it months ago because I did not like it (came with truck). I was planning on purchasing another soon but not if the darn thing can't even stay started.

If you stayed with me this far, you are committed. I appreciate you for that.
Main concern is the temperature-related running issue. Side concerns include oil in the valley, fuel gauge, ATF out of the power steering pump.
ANY TIPS? I am losing my mind.

 

Could be a sensor overheating and then grounding which would cause PCM shutdown…. @S-squatch can you reiterate that test sequence you figured out?

 

You HAVE to watch data somehow. It sounds to me (take it for what it is - one man's opinion), that the engine either dies at an idle or won't restart hot.....it seems to keep running while at road speed. It was really tough digging through the tangents and peripherals in the post.

If this is the case, I would be highly suspect of a high pressure oil leak from something under the valve covers, specifically the upper injector o-rings.

Does this look/sound familiar?

 

Another possibility is the IPR's electromagnet getting hot. The next time you get a hot-no-start, use a can of computer duster spray held upside down to spray the IPR's electromagnet to cool it. The attempt a start.

 

He tried cooling the IPR and no luck.

Cleatus is correct, need a scan tool at this point.

The BAFX OBD2 Bluetooth Dongle is about $20 and the FORscan Lite app is $6. This will give you the ability to do all the on-board diagnostic tests that a dealer can do as well as monitor PID’s and identify why the truck won’t start. You can also log the data stream and we can help evaluate what is happening when truck dies/won’t start.

Look at the top of this sub-forum for stickies related to FORScan Lite.

The oil and fuel in the valley is a problem, but not likely related to no-start. Degrease and pressure wash the valley squeaky clean and look for leak origins. The HPOP line o-ring that was replaced is 1 of 4 potential oil leaks and the others likely need replaced as well. The most common fuel leak is the water drain valve on the fuel filter housing.

I recommend ordering the ‘combo kit’ from www.dieselorings.com and get the upgraded ‘blue’ water drain o-rings. This kit will have the cure for all the common oil and fuel leaks and is significantly cheaper than dealer parts.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

That's what I get for speed reading. In that case, yup what cleatus12r said.

Tangent: So many people come on here asking for help with trucks not running right but get turned off if you lead with "get FORScan and log data".

 

There's a lot more in that OP than is necessary and a lot more than I'll read.

 

Understood. That sounds like potentially a similar situation. The most recent time it died, it was moving (all others were at a stop). I apologize for the breadth of the post, added TLDR. Thanks for giving some info.

Would this be more diagnostic than pouring ice/water on the solenoid? Would it be more worth a shot than that?

Thank you for this information. I guess that is the next step. As one of the other posters mentioned, this is a little intimidating but I think it would be beneficial to have in my arsenal anyway. I will keep you updated!

I apologize! I added a TLDR if you would still like to take part. Thank you for at least stopping by.

 

I have purchased an OBD connector. It should be here tomorrow. Is there something in particular I should do with FORScan? I understand that it has quite a few functions so I am unsure of where to focus my attention.

 

Have you gotten the oil leak under control? How is your oil level now?

 

I have not. I will more than likely follow SkySkiJason's recommendation and have the remaining o-rings replaced/continue tracking it down. At the current time, oil level is acceptable. It has definitely lost some between the last time I added and now, but it is OK.

 

Do you get a WTS light when it dies and doesn't fire back up?

​​​​​​Apologies if you already included this info.

 

I havent heard of a sensor failing in that way while hot, but if the sensor pulled down the ref you would not have a wait to start light, or communication with the pcm.
I agree with others scan data is the easiest right now, not needed but without it you need pressure gauges, and preferably a scope to test the sensors.
I would look for a rpm signal. Icp, ipr. But I am no 7.3 expert.

 

Welcome to the forum! Sorry for your troubles but stick with these guys and they’ll help you get it figured out.

I think the most helpful data from FORScan in these cases is when it’s charted. I haven’t used it myself but have tried to help diagnose peoples issues by using FORScan data. When it’s charted the smoking gun is usually easier to see. They have an entire section within the tech folder on how to use FORScan and a couple guys here have developed a charting tool to make it easy for you. They will have to tell you what to record. From memory seems it’s typically ICP, IPR%, MAP, EBP, BARO, EOT, throttle %, MFDES, MAT, IAT.

The bump in the brake pedal I believe is normal.
The ATF leaking from pump is normal if doing a lot of turning with engine off.

Battery voltage must be above 10.5(or so?) during cranking or it will never command to fire injectors.
Same with a minimum ICP value (500?). You can try disconnecting the ICP as a quick check. That makes it use default tables to start/run.

What is the ACTUAL fuel level? Sounds like your gauge is wonky. If the level is below 1/4 tank and you have a broken pickup foot then it won’t get fuel. My opinion is the fuel bowl can remain full even if the fuel pressure is low. I don’t think the injectors will suck it dry.
Doesn't sound like this is your issue but figured it was worth stating.

 

No problem at all! I do reliably get WTS lights regardless of the status of the truck (starts or not).

Thanks for following up and kenn_chan for mentioning it as well. I will definitely update everyone once I get some data from the truck.

Thank you for the warm welcome. So far, great community. I have been lurking for a while. Thanks for making it through the entire post and replying to everything!

I see the post with the charting and I will follow that to see if I can gather some useful data. Hopefully that will guide us in the right direction.

Pedal - understood. Pump - understood.

It seems like the batteries are acceptable now that they're charged and I am not abusing them by cranking constantly. I will keep an eye on it though. With ICP, obviously the data collection will help but could that be a temperature-dependent problem?

I have no doubt in my mind that I am above half tank. I have not seen enough leaking diesel/driven enough to assume it is less than that. According to the gauge it is above 3/4 at the very least (currently hovers between 3/4 and just beneath full). I am leaning toward gauge or float as well. Would it be worthy for me to still replace the fuel pump? When looking under the truck, it looks that perhaps it is still the original fuel pump (or a really dirty OEM replacement) and I read that it is a good idea to replace as regular maintenance about every 100k.