1978 roller engine swap
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
1978 roller engine swap
I finally found a nice well built 5.0 roller engine for my 1978 F100. I see that alot of people convert to the 1978 model 302 oil pan but I am wondering if thi sis mandatory or just an option many go with because of the oil dripping on the susension from front plug etc.
When looking under the truck it appears there is plenty of room for clearance.
Reason I am asking is because this is a nice engine with no leaks and i would prefer not to mess with changing the pan if it is not necessary.
When looking under the truck it appears there is plenty of room for clearance.
Reason I am asking is because this is a nice engine with no leaks and i would prefer not to mess with changing the pan if it is not necessary.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
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It is an 89 out of a Mustang....Looking at the factory 302 int he truck their is a ton of clearance already with the 78 pan so that shouldn't be an issue
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
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I had read someone mentioning the crossmember but thought they said the front plug might drain on that....I am gonna check dimensions though I hadn't considered the rear drain plug. That would be a mess. LOL
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
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How many miles on the engine? Has it been sitting or was it being regularly ran so the gaskets stayed wet?
It's the old "Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure vs. if it ain't broke don't touch it" argument. I prefer to reseal an engine I'm swapping in just as cheap insurance. It's also a good time to clean up and paint everything. If the gaskets are in good condition it might stay dry forever or it could start leaking in a couple month if they're old, dried up, or if a cover/pan took a whack removing/moving it and broke the seal. Would you rather take the time to put in new gaskets and seals now while it's all easily accessible, or maybe end up with leaks shortly after and have to deal with it in/under the truck?
It's the old "Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure vs. if it ain't broke don't touch it" argument. I prefer to reseal an engine I'm swapping in just as cheap insurance. It's also a good time to clean up and paint everything. If the gaskets are in good condition it might stay dry forever or it could start leaking in a couple month if they're old, dried up, or if a cover/pan took a whack removing/moving it and broke the seal. Would you rather take the time to put in new gaskets and seals now while it's all easily accessible, or maybe end up with leaks shortly after and have to deal with it in/under the truck?
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 281
Likes: 16
How many miles on the engine? Has it been sitting or was it being regularly ran so the gaskets stayed wet?
It's the old "Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure vs. if it ain't broke don't touch it" argument. I prefer to reseal an engine I'm swapping in just as cheap insurance. It's also a good time to clean up and paint everything. If the gaskets are in good condition it might stay dry forever or it could start leaking in a couple month if they're old, dried up, or if a cover/pan took a whack removing/moving it and broke the seal. Would you rather take the time to put in new gaskets and seals now while it's all easily accessible, or maybe end up with leaks shortly after and have to deal with it in/under the truck?
It's the old "Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure vs. if it ain't broke don't touch it" argument. I prefer to reseal an engine I'm swapping in just as cheap insurance. It's also a good time to clean up and paint everything. If the gaskets are in good condition it might stay dry forever or it could start leaking in a couple month if they're old, dried up, or if a cover/pan took a whack removing/moving it and broke the seal. Would you rather take the time to put in new gaskets and seals now while it's all easily accessible, or maybe end up with leaks shortly after and have to deal with it in/under the truck?
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