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My wife and I just bought a camper and are looking to get out of our van and into an Excursion for pulling it. We've found several in our area with a rough budget of $6k. We're intending to purchase a V10 4x4. Are there any years to avoid, special things to look for, etc? I've done my research on the V10 and know to look for the PCV hose, spark plug helicoil, and exhaust manifold leaks. Other than that, are there any common problems with the chassis itself? Any thing to look for such as Jeep frame rust or Subaru shock towers where it would be an "avoid at all costs" kind of deal?
Been looking through the TECH folder and haven't seen anything like that but thought I'd do my research and post up the question anyway.
Looking through the provided link, that seems to be for buying a used 6.0L. We're looking at the 6.8 V10 and, more importantly, if there are any model years or issues with the Excursion itself to avoid.
Looking through the provided link, that seems to be for buying a used 6.0L. We're looking at the 6.8 V10 and, more importantly, if there are any model years or issues with the Excursion itself to avoid.
Not really, the Excursion only had a six model year run, not a lot really changed in that short period of time. Sure some minor things changed, like the 2005 has a different grill and headlights, but nothing that makes one particular year a "no go" or anything. I'd say rust is the biggest thing to look for and avoid. Engines are easier to fix than rust.
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The plug blowout thing was due mostly to the low thread count in the plug holes in the heads, that issue was resolved with an update to the heads in late model year ‘02, so anything newer Han that will have the better heads with more threads and be far less likely to ever spit a plug out. The exhaust manifold studs all seem to fail at some point, use any missing ones (should be 20 of them) as a negotiation tool, replacing them is a pain but is absolutely doable by a DIY owner.
For Indiana rigs I would expect lots of salt rust, consider looking to the South for more solid metal, mine came from LA and not having the typical rust belt “patina” is a great bonus!
How long and heavy is your TT? The 6.8 EXs came with a standard 3.73 rear gear or the optional 4.30 gears, the 4.30 gears will make for a better tow rig.
Good luck on your search!
To be honest with a budget of $6000 , you better figure its going to have issues, be it high miles, rust or other mechanical issues. Unless you get something from down south that has never seen snow, rust is probably the biggest thing to watch out for. The rocker panels are prone to rust out and can be costly to replace due to everything around them probably rusted out also. That being said , there are deals to be had out there and most mechanical issues can be fixed relatively easily.
How long and heavy is your TT? The 6.8 EXs came with a standard 3.73 rear gear or the optional 4.30 gears, the 4.30 gears will make for a better tow rig.
Good luck on your search!
34’ and 9600 gross. Right on the limit for a 6.8 4x4 with the 3.73. We also plan on grabbing a curt WD hitch before towing with it.
34’ and 9600 gross. Right on the limit for a 6.8 4x4 with the 3.73. We also plan on grabbing a curt WD hitch before towing with it.
I started towing with my EX when it was all stock and had 3.73 gears, the trailer was a 31’ TH that scaled right at 9500lbs. It was a little bit doggy on any grades but it always got us to the destination, just with frequent downshifts and some higher revs. I swapped up to 4.88 gears with 35” tires for an effective gear ratio of 4.39 which really improved the towing performance, the addition of Banks long tube headers and 5Star tunes were also positive improvements but the deeper gears are the single best mod that I’ve done. Our current TT is a 41’ 3 slide beast that weighs between 12 & 13K lbs depending on water and cargo. We pulled the old TH for 15K miles and have logged over 75K miles with the big TT, the V-10 makes for a good solid tow rig with the right gears and tune. The best part of the tunes (I always run the 89 octane performance tune with matching gas) is the vastly improved transmission shift strategy, the little engine performance increase is just the gravy.
Buy the best WD with built-in sway control system you can afford, don’t skimp! I found a used Hensley Arrow 12 years ago for $600 and it’s made towing heavy with this short wheelbase wagon so much more stable and comfortable.
So we're fairly new to towing. We've pulled some utility trailers and car dollys but nothing this heavy before. Doing a FB search for Hensley shows a couple Arrows in the area for $600-$800. What makes the Hensley Arrow better than a Curt or Reese of the same style?
So we're fairly new to towing. We've pulled some utility trailers and car dollys but nothing this heavy before. Doing a FB search for Hensley shows a couple Arrows in the area for $600-$800. What makes the Hensley Arrow better than a Curt or Reese of the same style?
The Hensley and it’s cousin the Pro Pride are a design know as pivot point projection WD hitches, basically mimics the geometry of a fifth wheel vs a bumper pull. Their design makes it impossible for the trailer to sway behind the tow vehicle. These hitches are at the top of the food chain for WD setups, some of the other more affordable systems with built-in sway control are also very good.
While not cheap either (but not arrow expensive) the reese strait-line works pretty dang good. I've used them on both bumper pull / travel trailer style RV's I've had, one of which was a 34' triple axle toy hauler that was always overloaded it seemed. Never a problem with sway even in west Texas winds. It also incorporates an active sway mitigation but uses a different principle than the arrow.
Thanks y'all for the information. I understand the "buy nice or buy twice" principle but with the budget we may need to buy twice. Gonna go with a used WD for around $150 while we try to suss out a good HA or PP. Or we might just go crazy and buy the PP 3P.
Absolutely would if we had the budget right away. Currently trying to sell our E150 and purchase an EX. $2300 and it needs rear springs ($350 for a set from a local pull yard). Unfortunately can't afford the HA just yet but it's on the list!
Thanks y'all for the information. I understand the "buy nice or buy twice" principle but with the budget we may need to buy twice. Gonna go with a used WD for around $150 while we try to suss out a good HA or PP. Or we might just go crazy and buy the PP 3P.
I fully understand budget constraints and shopping used, just be sure to buy a WD system with built-in sway control vs the type with bolt on friction sway devises, any unit with built-in sway control will be superior and will deliver improved towing performance in less than ideal conditions. Try to find a unit with the correct sized spring bars or you will need to buy new bars for it to match the TTs tongue weight. I always advise to use the 15% of the TTs GVWR for potential tongue weight rule of thumb, so with your TTs gross weight of 9600lbs you should plan your WD system to to handle a 10,000lb trailer and 1500lbs of tongue weight.
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