When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don’t know squat about front suspensions other than shocks so I’m at 104k miles right now and feel a little bump so I have accumulated outer tie rods, a drag bar link and caster shims (I think they are called) so collecting stuff at the moment for when the time comes. What else should I throw at it if anything right now? Thinking I’ll get more mileage and start figuring how to swap parts but just wondering what else I should be looking at?
Define "a little bump".
Bump steer
Shuddering
Clunking
Does this happen after a pothole?
During turning?
Dip in the road?
Over railroad tracks?
Etc.
Also unless you just have a bunch of time on your hands and feel like learning, I'd recommend taking it to a good Offroad shop that works on Super Dutys. Tell them what it is doing. Have them drive it, and then ask them to make it not do that anymore...
Yeah, not sure what you have going on but tie rod ends, drag link, shocks, steering stabilizer, track bar bushing and ball joint. I wouldn't install caster shims unless the truck needs them. If you want to go to the next level you need wheel bearings, u-joints and ball joints but unless you use it as a plow truck the bigger stuff on the second list is probably go for another 50k miles.
I’ve had DW lately but mostly the wheel has a little shimmy (not too bad but rode with brother in law and his was much smoother in comparison so I know there is room for improvement especially since I’m at 104k miles and haven’t messed with any of it)
totally new at any suspension stuff so trying to cram here at the last minute
Originally Posted by Compression-Ignition
Define "a little bump".
Bump steer
Shuddering
Clunking
Does this happen after a pothole?
During turning?
Dip in the road?
Over railroad tracks?
Etc.
Also unless you just have a bunch of time on your hands and feel like learning, I'd recommend taking it to a good Offroad shop that works on Super Dutys. Tell them what it is doing. Have them drive it, and then ask them to make it not do that anymore...
Yeah, not sure what you have going on but tie rod ends, drag link, shocks, steering stabilizer, track bar bushing and ball joint. I wouldn't install caster shims unless the truck needs them. If you want to go to the next level you need wheel bearings, u-joints and ball joints but unless you use it as a plow truck the bigger stuff on the second list is probably go for another 50k miles.
thanks! Appreciate the help!
I want to do shocks soon but I have a b&w flip gooseneck ball in the bed and I hear that completely get in the way of changing shocks. In fact I’m betting new shocks would make a big difference. I’ve got a set of those and the steering shock as well to do. I try to keep getting projects ready so I can tackle them when I get some time especially since the mileage on the truck
I want to do shocks soon but I have a b&w flip gooseneck ball in the bed and I hear that completely get in the way of changing shocks. In fact I’m betting new shocks would make a big difference. I’ve got a set of those and the steering shock as well to do. I try to keep getting projects ready so I can tackle them when I get some time especially since the mileage on the truck
thanks again!
The factory rear shocks with the B&W is a slight PIA. You have to remove and notch a crossmember. I made a spacer after the fact from square tube so the bolts wouldn't crush the unsupported flange. Once the factory shock is out I could now change the slightly differently designed Blistein 5100's without any problem, and without having to remove the bolt or spacer. This is looking striaght up from the bottom, shock boot on the left, upper shock nut can be seen at the top. kind of hard to figure out what I did without seeing it stock but that is what it looks like after notching and fitting a spacer (painted black)
I’ve had DW lately but mostly the wheel has a little shimmy (not too bad but rode with brother in law and his was much smoother in comparison so I know there is room for improvement especially since I’m at 104k miles and haven’t messed with any of it)
totally new at any suspension stuff so trying to cram here at the last minute
yes, slightly moved back and forth and just now experiencing DW as well. It’s not a drastic shake but I can tell the difference between mine and brother in laws
got it, I think. The crossmember is part of the b&w hitch correct? I hear those are a huge pita to try to do anything with but I’ll try just about anything to be able to replace them. Thanks! I’ll use yours as a reference!
Originally Posted by RidgwaySD
The factory rear shocks with the B&W is a slight PIA. You have to remove and notch a crossmember. I made a spacer after the fact from square tube so the bolts wouldn't crush the unsupported flange. Once the factory shock is out I could now change the slightly differently designed Blistein 5100's without any problem, and without having to remove the bolt or spacer. This is looking striaght up from the bottom, shock boot on the left, upper shock nut can be seen at the top. kind of hard to figure out what I did without seeing it stock but that is what it looks like after notching and fitting a spacer (painted black)
I found the instructions. Hopefully since I am outside of the rest belt there bolts will come out easier.
Originally Posted by Matt Pace
got it, I think. The crossmember is part of the b&w hitch correct? I hear those are a huge pita to try to do anything with but I’ll try just about anything to be able to replace them. Thanks! I’ll use yours as a reference!
