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Hi all. New member and new owner of a ‘76 F250 Ranger XLT with a 460. Looking for some help.
I replaced the rag joint today (which was a fun learning experience) and as I was finishing up noticed a break line leaking at the reservoir. Well, I touched and it snapped off. Smh.. from what I found, this would also be the reason the “Break” light came on too.
Need some advice on the best way to go about fixing this. I’m pretty new to all this, so any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Hi all. New member and new owner of a ‘76 F250 Ranger XLT with a 460. Looking for some help.
I replaced the rag joint today (which was a fun learning experience) and as I was finishing up noticed a brake line leaking at the reservoir. Well, I touched and it snapped off. Smh..
From what I found, this would also be the reason the “Brake” light came on too.
Need some advice on the best way to go about fixing this. I’m pretty new to all this, so any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Welcome to FTE
Ford never sold steel brake and fuel lines, they had to be made up using the correct diameter line, using nuts, ferrules and a tubing bender.
Brake shop could probably make up a new steel line. I don't know if any of the repro parts sellers sell them already made up.
Welcome to FTE, rag joint replacement on a 2wd NO FUN FOR SURE. Leave the master cylinder cap and bail (the wire that holds the cap down) on to create vacuum and keep any fluid remaining in the master cylinder. Take the plug fitting out of the master cylinder. Tap out the piece of line left in it. Cut off the end of the broke line (a little) to get a new clean end. Do not use wire cutters, but actual brake line cutting tool.
Put the plug fitting on the line and then flare the line with a brake line flaring tool. And hopefully you have enough slack to get it to reconnect. Sometimes there is a double loop in the lines down under the power brake booster and you can get a little slack from there. You can usually borrow the tools from most auto parts houses that have a tool loaner program. While you are there get a Chilton or Haynes manual for 73-79 Ford trucks.
You must of pushed on the brake pedal after the line broke and enough brake fluid must of came out the front small reservoir (which is for the back brakes). And that fluid loss triggered the red Brake light in the instrument cluster. The fluid loss caused the piston in the proportional valve to move and trip the light.
After you repair the line you will need to bleed the brake system and that should get the brake light to go out. If the truck is really rusty and that line just broke by touching it. You REALLY need to insp the rest of the solid brake line connection points.
I bought a roll of NiCopp brake lines and bent my own. The kit usually comes w/ a variety of fittings or you can try to salvage and reuse the fitting you have. You'll need to get a flare tool as well. I bought a cheap one on amazon. NiCopp is very easy to bend either by hand or with a bending tool. My lines going to my rear axle cracked when I was moving the truck in my driveway.
In order to make your own you'll need to buy or borrow a double flaring tool set. Probably cheapest and easiest route for this one line is any competent auto repair garage/shop can make you a new line. Just take the old one with fittings with you. Of course you will need to buy a quart of brake fluid and bleed your brakes after install of line.
If you plan to do more brake line work, might be worth investing in a double flaring tool now. Harbor freight has one for $28 but its not the best quality and takes some fettling to get proper flares.
Remove the broken line(s), take them with you to the parts store.. behind the counter they'll have a selection of pre-made brake hard-line lengths with different fittings on them. You should be able to find something there, if not then get a flare tool and some line to make your own.
Ford never sold steel brake and fuel lines, they had to be made up using the correct diameter line, using nuts, ferrules and a tubing bender.
Brake shop could probably make up a new steel line. I don't know if any of the repro parts sellers sell them already made up.
I bought an entire brake line kit all pre bent, flared, fittings and all from LMC one time. Pre-Bent Stainless Steel Brake Line Kits (lmctruck.com) Everything fit right in where the factory lines did. I don't think you can buy individual sections but I found these on bronco graveyard
I bought an entire brake line kit all pre bent, flared, fittings and all from LMC one time. Pre-Bent Stainless Steel Brake Line Kits (lmctruck.com) Everything fit right in where the factory lines did. I don't think you can buy individual sections but I found these on bronco graveyard
Replace that other brake line attached to the master as well. It's ready to break, at the worst possible time. As others have mentioned, you may want to replace all the lines.
Mark8man is correct you need to "double" flare brake lines (or any Hydraulic line).
A single flare will eventually split under pressure. Personally have seen it happen a few times.
I've got a couple of the regular flaring tools with double flare adapters .... but a mechanic showed me one of these In-Line Flaring Tool Auto-Specific Set - Cal-Van Toolsone time, let me use it to make a short piece, and I bought one on the way home, it was in Advance Auto. You can get it in individual sizes like just 3/16, and I've even used it to make a few metric bubble flares (to adapt SAE to metric system on my Gold Wing trike) by stopping early in the process.... , or buy a whole kit
Welcome to FTE, rag joint replacement on a 2wd NO FUN FOR SURE. Leave the master cylinder cap and bail (the wire that holds the cap down) on to create vacuum and keep any fluid remaining in the master cylinder. Take the plug fitting out of the master cylinder. Tap out the piece of line left in it. Cut off the end of the broke line (a little) to get a new clean end. Do not use wire cutters, but actual brake line cutting tool.
Put the plug fitting on the line and then flare the line with a brake line flaring tool. And hopefully you have enough slack to get it to reconnect. Sometimes there is a double loop in the lines down under the power brake booster and you can get a little slack from there. You can usually borrow the tools from most auto parts houses that have a tool loaner program. While you are there get a Chilton or Haynes manual for 73-79 Ford trucks.
You must of pushed on the brake pedal after the line broke and enough brake fluid must of came out the front small reservoir (which is for the back brakes). And that fluid loss triggered the red Brake light in the instrument cluster. The fluid loss caused the piston in the proportional valve to move and trip the light.
After you repair the line you will need to bleed the brake system and that should get the brake light to go out. If the truck is really rusty and that line just broke by touching it. You REALLY need to insp the rest of the solid brake line connection points.
UPDATE:
I purchased a prebent kit line kit from inlinetubes.com - they really made a pretty nice product. Although, after inspecting the set, it was clear that someone had moved the prop valve previously because it was no where near where the lines said it should be. Additionally, one of the fittings for the master cylinder didn’t fit properly. I ended up cutting and putting a new fitting and flare on the line, got it all back together, then promptly broke the brake pressure warning light sensor! Lol. I ended up replacing: the front L and R hoses, two hard lines from the master cylinder to prop valve, and the entire rear lines and hose.
After replacing the sensor, making sure everything is nice and tight, I proceeded to bleed the brakes with a friend. We used the pedal method, topping off the reservoir in between switching tires for bleeding. Then holding the brake pedal down with pressure in the system, reinspected all fittings, hoses and lines for leaks, none were visible.
Then, turned the engine on, the brake light went off. When I drove it down my driveway the pedal went squishy. Rechecked all fitting, still no leaks.
What would cause the loss of pressure or squishy pedal?
