While it is possible they are different, I would highly doubt it, since the Purolator filter has to meet OEM specs also.

 

I just checked with my local Sears Auto Center. They do stock the Purolator L44872, and this store charges $7.99 for it (which is still a good price).

If you can get them for $2.99, could you please pick up a case for me?

 

I had wifey ask that specific question yesterday (remember, I don't go to the mall).

As reported to me by her, pimple boy working at Sears got a really dumb look on his face, obviously confused.

Wifey asked again. Hyperventilation/anxiety attack time.

Wifey had to decide whether to drop it or call 911.

Wifey let it drop. She knows that I have a stockpile and wanted to get to the GOOD shopping.

 

Hey fellows, just thought I'd put my 2 cents in on this thread. As for as filter goes, after owning 4 diesels,1985w/6.9,1994w/7.3,1997w/7.3, an now a 2001 powerstroke, I have to say fleetgard in my opinion is got to be the best. motorcraft is good, thats what I used for years until I went with fleetgard. will never use anything else. about $11.00 to $12.00 for a filter. As for as oil, Rotella T synthetic is my choice. Just my 2 cents. Happy Stroken.

 

Since you have had previous Diesels. What have you heard about the AMSOIL oils? Also there Filtration Systems look pretty good.

 

If you are interested in extending oil change intervals, you could get some benefit from using synthetics. For the money, I'd stay away from Amsoil - try something like Mobil Delvac 1 or Rotella T Synthetic. There are also a number of bypass systems available.

IMO you're just as well off with Rotella or Delo if you change at Ford's recommended interval.

 

Maybe with "Anything on Sale" oil too.

 

Catepillar Synthetic? Got a barrel sittin in the garage
What kind of extended interval should I use with a synthetic?

Thanks.....

 

I run about 3000 hard miles (75-90 mph) most of the time between oil changes on my 2002 PSD.

I have 27K on it, use Rotella 15W40 with Fram and K+N Oil filters.
I change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

Run a Diablo 54/78 chip, 4" exhaust and other goodies.

Sent my first oil sample to Blackstone Labs and every single section in the analysis came back below the "universal averages" for the mileage, etc.

As Blackstone Labs summarized the report;"A really nice wearing engine @ 27000 miles."

Oh yeah, I also have one of those "bad" K+N drop in air filters.
Blackstone also stated "Air and oil filtration looked good".

All in all, synthetics are good, but your oil can still become contaminated by fuel, anti freeze, etc. that cannot be cleansed by synthetic oil, oil filters or bypass filters. Some contaminents are introduced into the oil regardless of oil type. (i.e. dino or synthteic.)

I would proceed regardless of oil type.
Send your oil to a lab for in depth testing results.

That should determine if synthetic is worth it or your brand of oil and air filter.

 

Ok, I have a question. I was told that if we use a fuel additive like Stanadyne or PowerService it can flaw the analysis. Has anyone ever heard of this.

I was told to get a good oil analysis I should run the old fuel out. Refuel. Change the oil and then send in a oil sample when it's time to change oil again.

Comments:?

 

I don't know guys, maybe I'm a coward, but putting a $3.00 filter and cheap oil in my PSD would scare the crap outta me. I've been around a while and have found that "you get what you pay for" pretty much covers everything. It's my belief that because a product is made by a reputable company but sold under another name, doesn't mean it is a good product. As far as stats goes, I think it depends on who's doing the testing or who's paying for the test. I think I'll stick with MC and Rotella. Maybe I waste a couple bucks but I get that warm fuzzy feeling that I did good when I change my oil.

 

OK. I understand and I am not trying to convince you otherwise, but let me give you some more info.

Have you ever shopped around for something and found that one place was more expensive than another? Maybe an Acme Widget is $20 at store X and $17 at store Y?

Same story here. That $2.99 Sears Purolator filter is $11.99 at Pep Boys and $10.99 at Checkers. I don't know why, and I think that it is stupid, but Sears prices ALL of its filter at $2.99. So they are a good deal.

If it makes you feel better about the Purolator to pay more, then you need to buy is at Pep Boys for $11.99

Same story with the Tractor Supply oil. If you buy it in 8 quart jugs, its $12 ($1.50/qt.) 5 gal. pails are $30.

But, Tractor Supply prices ALL of its 1 qt. bottles at $1.02. Once again, I don't know why and it's stupid, but that's what they do. On top of it all, they give you a 5% discount for buying more than 10 qts.

So 15 qts. @ 1.50/qt. and $12 for the filter = $34.50 + tax.

I can do the exact same oil change for <$19 including tax.

So if paying $34.50+ makes you believe that you are getting better oil and oil filters, that's what you need to do.

 

I would submit the oil sample just the way you run your truck.

A false analysis is one that you would submit by deleting your additive, not telling them you had to add a little new oil at xxxxx miles, etc.

There are a few tests that Blackstone does that can pick up fuel in the oil, one is the oil flash point and the other is viscosity. If your sample falls into a certain % category in the flash point and viscocity tests, then they have detected fuel in the oil.

Doesn't really make any difference about the fuel additive if they find lower than normal flash point and viscosity anyway.

You may have bigger problems.

 

Thanks for that info HeatStroked. Makes sense to me. I'll send my analysis in.

Jerrybo66, I would almost have to agree. I worked at CarQuest for some years and we had a filter display for everyone to see once you came up to the counter.

Wix/Purolator/Fram. Now, let me first say I'm not starting a filter war!!! But, Fram was the worst then, Purolator. Wix by far was the superior filter. I don't use Purolator and don't plan on it either. I would never use a fram unless I'm putting it on my lawnmower. Both these filters were poor in design and papermedia etc. Now, this has been years ago so unless Purolator has changed their quality then I stand corrected. It migt be time to buy filters above and do a cutaway view again for comparision?

Also, Wix and Napa are one in the same. If I remember Wix#51734 Napa#1734. I also comfirmed this with a Napa rep.

You can almost go to any parts store and buy brake pads made by X company. They all seem to have a good and a best pad available from the same company at 2 different prices. Sure the cheap pad will stop the car but the better pad stops better, last longer and probably won't heat the rotor as bad? With Purolator manufacturing the FoMoCo line I would bet it's not the same filter that's made for their cheaper purolator line?


I'm all for saving money but putting a 2.99 Purolator filter on my PSD??? I don't think so. I'll spend the extra 6 bucks and buy the Napa/Wix line.

 

I think you missed jshira's point - it's the SAME Purolator filter that is available elsewhere for $10 - 12, it's just priced lower at his local Sears store. So, by your "it must be better - it cost more" analogy, you should go and get a Purolator at twelve bucks.

And if you think the Motorcraft filter is made any differently than the Purolator, I've got some land for sale...