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Hi all, I’ve been following poppys patina on IG and man that stuff can look really nice on some old worn down body's!
Anyone here tried it?
I think I wanna look into doing it on my truck. Are you all open to helping answer all the body prep questions?
Again please forgive my potentially stupid questions as I know nothing about body work at ALL.
Huge word of advice. It takes a lot of work and patients to prep a body for paint. If you skip or rush in one step, get ready for the rust to start and fast. Rust never sleeps. If you are going to put that kind of work into a truck, do it right the first time. IMO, repaint it the original color. A wise man once said " Patina is what a poor man calls a good paint job".
I think the patina look is "different", like a rat rod or something along those lines. I like the concept of both ideas (clear coated patina and a rat rod) and even check out both of those kinds vehicles at car shows.
X2 on just doing the poppy's way of sealing it, like any type of body work/paint, it is all about the prep. And in the end if you do not like it, you should be able to get a normal paint job. Unless you paint it with bed liner.
Rub the whole truck down with soap Brillo pads then use the patina sauce. You may have to do it a couple times a year. Personally I like the look and who wants to worry about fresh shiny paint on a truck ? These trucks are meant to be used and if you spend money to paint then have fun sleeping at night. I got down to original paint on my truck and everywhere I go people freak out on the look. Patina is in right now and most people don’t even know what they are looking at. You have one life go with what you think is cool. I just wipe my truck down with wd40 once a week stuff works great and keeps surface rust minimal.
I will always prefer original paint to new, lead is just better. Don’t care for the fake patina at all, I get it when you need to match a panel though.
buff and wax, wax, wax always works for me. No snake oil.
Appreciate all the replies. Someday I may wanna redo the whole truck but if im gonna paint it im then gonna have to basically reduce everything.
At this point I just wanna drive the heck outta it and not worry about anything and I like the the weathered truck, could tell me some stories look. Heck we’re all weathered!
So poppys directions says use there scuff pad and wipe or spray it on. I’ve also gone down the youtube rabbit whole of how to videos. Can I scuff or sand down some of the imperfections then use a finishing cut buff then apply. I guess id like to get my old paint and body cleaned up before I put a suit on it.
Here are a couple pics. Again appreciate all your help!
I hadn't heard of Poppys but checked out their website. Wow! They have a long list of fancy bottled stuff to empty your wallet. I give them credit for cashing in on a hot trend.
I'll stick with WD40. Nothing can duplicate the look of what mother nature can do as far as true patina. The more you start messing with it, using semi-permanent or permanent protectants, clear coats and enhancers, the patina that took 45 years to create will be changed permanently.
Zag78150 - don't overthink it - just drive it and enjoy it like it is. Hard to say best method to try and improve appearance. Is it a respray or original paint? Looks like a repaint to me if so you may not be able to do much with it.
I hadn't heard of Poppys but checked out their website. Wow! They have a long list of fancy bottled stuff to empty your wallet. I give them credit for cashing in on a hot trend.
I'll stick with WD40. Nothing can duplicate the look of what mother nature can do as far as true patina. The more you start messing with it, using semi-permanent or permanent protectants, clear coats and enhancers, the patina that took 45 years to create will be changed permanently.
Zag78150 - don't overthink it - just drive it and enjoy it like it is. Hard to say best method to try and improve appearance. Is it a respray or original paint? Looks like a repaint to me if so you may not be able to do much with it.
I see some over spray which leads me to believe it’s probably all repainted. Appreciate ur input!
I like to use a buffer on paint to get it to shine and remove the oxidation.
for the primer and surface rust I use a coat of 75% linseed oil 25% mineral spirits
Real patina is earned by time and work, your box pics look like bad adhesion of a respray at some point in time. My truck is a coat of many colors now, the box cab front clip and doors are all different. I don't mind. It's all earned from hard life of salt roads and hauling. Real patina has 0 shine and does not repel water. Just an opinion.
Can I wet sand this to try and blend it or really nothing I can do?
it looks like that was painted over. You can try but who knows what’s under it. I would hit the whole truck with gray scotchbright(front to back sanding only, dish soap and water) then buff it out, it will look the best it can.
Personally I think clearing over natural patina ruins the look. The only time i think clear works is on new, fake patina jobs.
Once you start wiping old paint down with any petroleum based oil, like WD-40, it's gonna soak into the paint and you'll never get a new paint job to stick without stripping it down to bare metal. Been there, done that, learned the hard way, luckily on a smaller scale. Wouldn't ever do it to a vehicle I might want a nice paint job on in the future. Also don't ever use anything with silicone in it on the body if you ever want paint to stick again.
If you want to preserve natural patina and keep it looking natural, wash the whole thing with soap and water and dry it, then wipe all the rusty areas down with ISO alcohol, then once that's dry, put a few coats of high quality automotive wax over everything to seal it. Most of the people i knew doing it that way did 3-5 initial coats, then did 1-2 coats a month when they were driving them. Go over the rusty areas first and work the first coat in well. It's usually a little shiny when it's first put on but it dulls out to much more natural look fairly quickly.
Personally I think clearing over natural patina ruins the look. The only time i think clear works is on new, fake patina jobs.
Once you start wiping old paint down with any petroleum based oil, like WD-40, it's gonna soak into the paint and you'll never get a new paint job to stick without stripping it down to bare metal. Been there, done that, learned the hard way, luckily on a smaller scale. Wouldn't ever do it to a vehicle I might want a nice paint job on in the future. Also don't ever use anything with silicone in it on the body if you ever want paint to stick again.
If you want to preserve natural patina and keep it looking natural, wash the whole thing with soap and water and dry it, then wipe all the rusty areas down with ISO alcohol, then once that's dry, put a few coats of high quality automotive wax over everything to seal it. Most of the people i knew doing it that way did 3-5 initial coats, then did 1-2 coats a month when they were driving them. Go over the rusty areas first and work the first coat in well. It's usually a little shiny when it's first put on but it dulls out to much more natural look fairly quickly.
Messed around a little today. I wet sanded part of the bed with 1500 then buffed with a finishing cut. Pretty happy with it so far. Keep in mind I’m a total newbie!
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