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I need to refresh the brakes on the front of my '76 2WD F250. I will replace the rotors (so I have a spare set for next time) and pads. The bearings are in good condition. I would appreciate any thoughts on replacing or reusing the bearings, is it worth the trouble to knock out the races?
In theory you can do a bearing change without the race if there's no signs of heat, wear or damage, plenty of people do it, but personally, I've never replaced a bearing without doing the race, they are a matched set that wear in together. If the race even had a slight amount of wear or damage, which might not even be visible or felt, it can make the rotor run-out fall outside spec even with correct bearing preload and you'll have excessive vibration and wear. Front bearing should be set using the preload sequence to get it close, then, if necessary, adjusting to get .002-.010" run-out on the rotor face.
If the bearings are good, I clean them in solvent and repack and reinstall in same position as removed. I see no reason for otherwise. They are "mated" and likely at least as good as if not better than anything you'll put in. If I ever were to replace my bearings, then I'd include races, but even with hard life living police cars, never have needed to replace my wheel bearings. Even if putting new rotors on which have hubs with new races, just clean, inspect, pack, and reinstall the bearings is all we've done. Now, if I found bluing, pitting, or dry bearings, likely I'm there because I suspected ill bearings, then I'd replace them, races and all.
Replacing outer races in a hub has it's hazards, both for the hub and the race. Knock a race out and let it get cocked, you'll need a new hub. Let a race get cocked going in, same thing, plus now you need another race. If the original race has been tru for 50 years, is not blued or pitted, shows no appreciable wear, chances are it'll be happy with clean packed new rollers for ... another 50 anyway. If the rollers clean up and look nice, a repack and adjust is better IMHO.
Thanks for the responses. It was due to the hassle, and risk, of changing the races that I asked. I will take it all apart and see what I have. Thanks again.
I am trying to sort out the calipers, when I go looking for them I see several options, mine are dual piston. Even among them I am seeing different ones.
My VIN is 00683, which looks like I have an early model. Any suggestions on a good caliper, and rotor?
Calipers are dirt simple to rebuild. I think the kit will cost about $5. I know this will make people grimace, but in 20+ years I've never replaced the rotors. It has grooves and ridges, but when the pads get low I pop them out and shove in new ones, and away I go. Great braking. No issues.
Calipers are dirt simple to rebuild. I think the kit will cost about $5. I know this will make people grimace, but in 20+ years I've never replaced the rotors. It has grooves and ridges, but when the pads get low I pop them out and shove in new ones, and away I go. Great braking. No issues.
Did that on police cars real often even, if not blued from heat or if not warped. Just worn, did not even take rotors off to resurface, just bedded in new pads with a a few stops before on duty, get on with it. I have rebuilt calipers of POVs, pop the piston out with air and a board in the caliper, clean, new seal ring and dust seal all slicked up, press new piston in straight. People look down a phenolic pistons, but they do not rust or peal plating. They also transfer less heat from pad to fluid. I have steel pistons on all my front brakes, but I have had some rust and freeze in the seal ring and not want to release so cleanly.
I recently did this job on my '76 F-250 with a 460.
Do a thorough inspection of the wheel bearings. If all looks good, clean, repack using quality grease and properly retention the old bearings. If there is a problem change the bearing(s) and race(s).
I rebuilt my calipers using steel pistons, changed the hoses and the pads. I had to change the rotors due to "hot spots". I preferred not to cut them.
Thanks, and I think I will change the hoses also, they are likely original. I have a '62 Ford car that once when I was stopping blew the rear hose. This was a single master cylinder car so suddenly there were no brakes. Fortunately I was almost stopped and just bumped into the car ahead of me.
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