’76 F100, 360 2V, 4-speed manual transmssion, 2 wheel drive, no AC.

I'm in the process of putting on a set of headers; they are long tube DynoMax© brand.

I don’t have the capability to put them up in to position to look at them yet as I spent about three and a half hours trying to get the old exhaust off. I need more tools I guess.
I still have to cut the crossover pipe so I can get the stock exhaust out easier, what a nightmare. Here are some questions I have:

1) Is there anyone here with a manual transmission that can tell me if I am going to have linkage problems? I have read about problems with automatic transmission linkage interference, how about clutch linkage?

2) Do the headers go under the cross members or over? I guess I won’t be doing much off-roading with them if they go under huh?



3) The headers also have a round weld bead on the mounting surface, should I grind this down flat?

4) Who makes a mini-starter for Fords or some type of a starter blanket/heat shield that won’t get water logged and mess up my starter? There sure is plenty of stuff out there for the belly button cars, but not much out there for people with character.

5) What is a good way to "dimple" the headers without punching a hole through them or bending a mounting flange?

Thanks for any help you can give me, and no I haven’t taken the old exhaust manifolds off yet. Another “fun” job. LOL

 

well there's a bazillion posts in here on this but since i just did this and have nothing better to do ( that means no money for truck projects today...lol ) i'll take a stab at a few of your questions.........
don't know about fitment on your stick shift, but i can tell you instalation really varies on these things.between header brands and the truck itself one guy might have no problems and another nite mares........so after you get the old exaust off you'll just have to mess with them and see what fits where......
on my turck the headers stopped short of the cross member but they ( if the collectors were longer ) would actually be above the cross member.like i said that was on a 2wd.
as for that weld bead on them, some leave it some grind it down, personnaly i think that bead is there to help seal against the gasket, so i'd leave it there although you could surface them some if they arent totally flat......
as for dimpling them, if its a small dimple a ballpein hammer will work, some people have also used a torch to heat the headder and use a socket and a hammer to get a smooth rounded ding..........if your lucky you wont have to worry about it..............
sevral places make mini high torque starters although i dont recall seeing any cheaper than about 169 bucks..........some auto parts stores and your after market hot rod part places will have some kind of heat sheild that should run no more than 20 bucks..............thats my next project........

 

Thanks, alot of the info I found here was for FEs with automatic transmissions. For some reason not many people take pictures of the bottom of their truck.

This is my first set of headers, ever, what a shame for a 42 year old man. This is going to be my roadwarrior/hot rod until I give it to my daughter, maybe.

I hope I never grow up.

 

As for linkage, I think it depends on the header. In the past, I have removed the 3 bolt flange and welded a reducer on instead. This keeps the clutch fork from coming in contact with ring. I just put the Dynomax on my '67 and I did this modification.

I use heat/ball peen hammer to "make room" for items in the way.

I still have stock starter and NO heat sheild. So far, so good. I know it was a @*$&^@ getting the starter back in after putting headers on. Definately NOT a road side repair now.

Yes, the collectors come above the crossmember. Basically it clears just enough to get a muffler clamp on pipe. This is after I welded on reducers.

Larry

 

The guy that had the truck before me "fixed" the starter so it was better, he left the top bolt out, LOL.

I hope I can find a replacement in my bolt bucket as I remember from my '67 LTD that would cause a few issues down the road. I think I will see if I can locate a recip saw tonight that will take care of the old exhaust. My neck is still sore from yesterdays episode with the hacksaw; Me 0, Truck exhaust 1.

 

I have a 74 F100 4X4 with a 4 spd and hedmans..Headers stop short of tranny x-member, about in the middle of the collector, went under to ease in the removal of the exhust..No problems with linkage on the clutch..Yeah, it does make the starter replacement a little more exciting..But found it took the longest to unbolt and bolt back up the headers..JMO..