When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I tried removing my water pump today because I have a leak there. I did not know there was a bolt behind the power steering pump bracket, so, thinking I had all bolts out, I gave the water pump a couple good blows with a hammer.
Then I realized that there must be another bolt in there since it did not budge.
Now I found the bolt behind the power steering pump bracket, but it won't budge. I don't know if that bolt is just rusted on (everything in my cooling system is VERY rusty, and the other bolts came out rusty), or if I messed something up when I hit the pump with a hammer while that bolt was still in.
I did strip the head of the bolt.
Here's my questions:
What should be my next moves? I am soaking it in PB Blaster but I feel like it won't be enough. So I'm thinking I'll go buy a propane torch and some bolt extractors.
What does that bolt thread into? It seems very long... So I know which part I should heat with the torch.
All other bolts were 5/8ths (if I remember correctly), but this one is 1/2 inch. Is that normal or did the previous guy put in a wrong bolt?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-cover.html
Heres my thread on this. A lot of it I’m just going back and forth between my options but hopefully you can find something that helps.
From what I’m told usually you have to break the timing cover where the bolt seized. Once the timing covers off you can grab vice grips and remove it since it doesn’t seize in the block. But your situation doesn’t allow you to remove the pump so I’m not sure how you can get it out.
You can see all the corrosion in mine.
Mine looked similar to that when they came out. Do yourself a huge favor and run a tap into those bolt holes a few times using brake cleaner and compressed air blow out with each pass. You will never get the new bolts to thread in or torque down properly in those crusty old holes. Use thread sealer on the new bolt threads and plenty of antiseize on the bolt shaft that stays in the timing cover.
A torch and bolt extractor did the trick. First time using a torch. Really surprised by how much that helped.
This is the bolt that came out:
Yuck.
Gonna head to the junkyard tomorrow to get a new set of bolts and see how they should be in there. Some of mine do not seem right.
Junk yard bolts are going to be just as bad unless you find a motor someone has changed them in already. Do yourself a good deed and measure and buy new bolts.
"Gonna head to the junkyard tomorrow to get a new set of bolts" What?
I think using the right size drill bit would help clean the corrosion in housing and as long as you do not drill into the block, you will be fine. Finding a tap long enough to go through the housing and into the block might be a challenge too. Of course, that would mean the bolt is already out.
I've never understood how PB Blaster or any thing similar does to help free up a bolt like that. Unless the bolt is broken free, the stuff just does not get into where it needs to be. Since the aluminum corrosion is so thick, no amount of penetrating oil is going to work it's way in there. Once you spray that stuff all over, then it's hard to grab the heat without a fire hazard. Heat is my first step. If I cannot get access to the threads, the next step is finding new parts you are going to break. My time is worth something and I have no time to spend hours to save a $1 bolt or even a $100 cover.
Junk yard bolts are going to be just as bad unless you find a motor someone has changed them in already. Do yourself a good deed and measure and buy new bolts.
My thinking is junk yard bolts at least won't have stripped heads.
I tried to find new ones but only fond some on CJ Pony Parts for $50, which seemed steep for a couple of bolts. I'll reconsider.
I guess they wouldn't have to be exactly the same. Maybe I can find long enough ones with the same thread size at Home Depot. Like toolman60 suggests with measuring.
I'll definitely clean out the holes and see if I can get a tap down there. Anti seize is a good idea too.
Some company called alteredfox posted these dimensions for their kit. It’s for a 302 not sure what you have. And then there’s the dimensions from the photo blazerman posted. Whatever bolts are in good shape you have, try putting them in diesel to clean
Thanks for sharing but those seem to be the Dorman HELP! 23744, which I've also found at AutoZone, O'Reilly, NAPA, ... but they get consistently bad reviews and seem to not fit:
Thank you for the pointer though, maybe I'll give them a try since it's not that expensive.
Thank you Anonymous12 for the dimensions information. I do have the 302. I'll measure mine and double-check, then consider my options.
Oh and one more question. I'll be replacing the lower radiator hose since it's looking a little crispy. When I took the old one out, it had a large spring/spiraling wire lining the inside of it. The new hose did not come with that. (1) What's the purpose of that, and (2) should I take that spring out of the old one and transfer into the new one before installing?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
