Camber bushings
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Trailering
Joined: Jul 2022
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Camber bushings
97 f250 HD 4x4
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints now my wheels are tilted out too far at the top.
Excessive positive camber is the technical term I’d use for it.
Does this sound like I need new camber bushings?
Could the replacement ball joints be wrong?
When I compared the old ones to new ones at the parts store the top ones looked identical but the old bottom ones were so chewed up it was hard to tell for sure if the new joints were right.
Any ideas?
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints now my wheels are tilted out too far at the top.
Excessive positive camber is the technical term I’d use for it.
Does this sound like I need new camber bushings?
Could the replacement ball joints be wrong?
When I compared the old ones to new ones at the parts store the top ones looked identical but the old bottom ones were so chewed up it was hard to tell for sure if the new joints were right.
Any ideas?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,569
Likes: 2,678
From: Near Salt Lake City
Well, if it is out of spec you will need to change the slugs
The camber goes with the ride height
The taller it sits, the more positive camber it will have
Most stock height Ford trucks need about +.5 degree
Any more and you need negative toe to keep the tires alive
You let it down and drove it a few feet before deciding the camber was whacked right?
The camber goes with the ride height
The taller it sits, the more positive camber it will have
Most stock height Ford trucks need about +.5 degree
Any more and you need negative toe to keep the tires alive
You let it down and drove it a few feet before deciding the camber was whacked right?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,569
Likes: 2,678
From: Near Salt Lake City
Easy if you have some patience, and an air hammer with a chisel bit
A bit harder with just a Big hammer and big chisel
The ball joint does not need to come out
This is what I used for years and years, well, about 5 air hammers over the years
A bit harder with just a Big hammer and big chisel
The ball joint does not need to come out
This is what I used for years and years, well, about 5 air hammers over the years
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,569
Likes: 2,678
From: Near Salt Lake City
Use Ford camber cams, slugs, shims if you can
The aftermarket ones work fine but break all to pieces when you try to remove them
Fords E0TZ-3B440-A is a zero E0TZ-3B440-B is a 1/2 degree, E0TZ-3B440-C is a degree and D is 1.5 degrees
If you are willing or can use a zero cam, you can make a caster adjustment and solve the pulls right by slotting a cam 90 degrees from the original slots. Move that upper ball joint rearward on the passenger side, or forward on the driver's side, to correct the built in caster split that most of them had
Good luck
The aftermarket ones work fine but break all to pieces when you try to remove them
Fords E0TZ-3B440-A is a zero E0TZ-3B440-B is a 1/2 degree, E0TZ-3B440-C is a degree and D is 1.5 degrees
If you are willing or can use a zero cam, you can make a caster adjustment and solve the pulls right by slotting a cam 90 degrees from the original slots. Move that upper ball joint rearward on the passenger side, or forward on the driver's side, to correct the built in caster split that most of them had
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 18
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So I just need to rotate the camber slug to adjust it?
This camber business is all new to me. I’ve been reading up on it and think I’m understanding it.
Thanks again
Edit: Didn’t see your last post
So the slugs aren’t adjustable and need replaced?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,569
Likes: 2,678
From: Near Salt Lake City
No, generally you would replace the slug and make the camber adjustment
You can rotate the slug if you need to. For instance, when I used to do alignments I would see a 1 degree slug in there
And the camber too far positive with the caster too far negative
So I would take that factory 1 degree cam, and grind it, as to rotate that upper ball joint back (rearward) and to the inside
That would lessen the camber and increase the caster (rh side mind you) for the left side, it was out and forward (too far negative camber and still some caster split)
You can rotate and as you approach 90 degrees it makes the camber shim essentially a zero
You can rotate the slug if you need to. For instance, when I used to do alignments I would see a 1 degree slug in there
And the camber too far positive with the caster too far negative
So I would take that factory 1 degree cam, and grind it, as to rotate that upper ball joint back (rearward) and to the inside
That would lessen the camber and increase the caster (rh side mind you) for the left side, it was out and forward (too far negative camber and still some caster split)
You can rotate and as you approach 90 degrees it makes the camber shim essentially a zero
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,569
Likes: 2,678
From: Near Salt Lake City
I mis spoke above
Not caster too far negative, just the split
I would commonly see caster angles of 3.5 degrees on the drivers side and 2.75 on the passenger side
That means the truck will pull right
I would reverse those numbers and solve the pulls right
And by slotting that oem 1 degree cam on the rh side, at 90 degrees, it took the 1 degree of camber out of it and added 1 degree of caster
Not caster too far negative, just the split
I would commonly see caster angles of 3.5 degrees on the drivers side and 2.75 on the passenger side
That means the truck will pull right
I would reverse those numbers and solve the pulls right
And by slotting that oem 1 degree cam on the rh side, at 90 degrees, it took the 1 degree of camber out of it and added 1 degree of caster
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