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I don't use studded snow tires, they are worthless on a vehicle that goes offroad, and I don't know where you are getting that I can only drive 25 MPH. I can drive as fast as I want to with an auto locker in the rear and it is far more useful because it gives you better traction all the time. I wouldn't want a selectable locker in the rear because it is either open or fully locked like a spool and I don't want either of those on the street. A locker going around corners certainly could be a problem on ice if you don't know how to drive, but I have never had an issue in the 6-7 years I have been driving in the snow with a rear auto locker. The road to my house is a winding hill that stays shaded almost all day so every snow we get it stays icy for a long time. Ip have to pull people out of the ditch every time it snows or we get an ice storm.
Say you don't know anything about lockers on snow & ice without explicitly saying it. Well done. Even novices know you can't be locked and turn on slick roads.
I don't use studded snow tires, they are worthless on a vehicle that goes offroad,
Originally Posted by 4wd6.7L
What is an LTS rear axle?
Must be a typo, probably means LSD.
Worthless is an overstatement. They provide little to zero advantage offroad. When I'm doing a deep snow recovery, I'm on 4 studded tires going fast on the road until I get offroad and chain up.
Ice raced for years in MT so I know a bit about lockers on ice.
Originally Posted by acdii
That is CLEARLY NOT a Super Duty. Pears to Peanuts
It's a ProRock 60 (stronger Dana 60). The CV's don't have a problem binding while turning, that's the point.
Last edited by JoeSmith6; Apr 1, 2023 at 02:48 PM.
Back in the '60s, we used Studded Tires in the Black Ice days in Oklahoma City, until the city officials Banned Studded tires.
my '65 Plymouth Satellite had the LSD in it, loved it for playing games and burning up Recapped tires....
but when Black Ice was on the road, 5 mph was Optimum speed for turning at a 90 degree intersection with Studded Tires..... and even that was hard to do, as it wanted to go Straight Ahead.
Say you don't know anything about lockers on snow & ice without explicitly saying it. Well done. Even novices know you can't be locked and turn on slick roads.
I don't use studded snow tires, they are worthless on a vehicle that goes offroad,
How many vehicles do you have with auto lockers and how much have you driven them in snow and ice? I have 3 and drive them every winter, sounds like you are a novice since you obviously have no Idea what you are talking about, they turn just as easily as they did with the factory limited slip in the rear. Go off road in muddy conditions and tell me how far you get with studded snow tires, they turn into slicks and you go nowhere.
Unless you have a good clamshell bearing puller, getting carrier bearings off is extremely difficult. The average mechanic won't have one as a $600 tool used maybe once or twice in the mechanics lifetime is poor use of money. It is far less expensive to just put new bearings on than to spend a couple hours trying to heat and extract worn ones.
Originally Posted by 00t444e
Why would you do that? They aren't that expensive and unless you have a clamshell puller which most people don't you will likely destroy them getting them off. Makes more sense to just put new bearings on it instead of reusing old ones like a hack.
Well, apparently people are taking these to shops to have the carrier installed. Any differential shop worth dealing with will have a clamshell puller. I have one that I bought for $200. So to say it's some expensive, phantom tool is just being obtuse when the bearings themselves are almost as much.
It's plain stupid to waste money on Carrier brgs when the originals can be used.
Well, apparently people are taking these to shops to have the carrier installed. Any differential shop worth dealing with will have a clamshell puller. I have one that I bought for $200. So to say it's some expensive, phantom tool is just being obtuse when the bearings themselves are almost as much.
It's plain stupid to waste money on Carrier brgs when the originals can be used.
I do have a clamshell puller and I still put new bearings on when installing a new carrier, it would be foolish not to. Why on earth would you want to reuse old bearings that have thousands of miles on them?
I do have a clamshell puller and I still put new bearings on when installing a new carrier, it would be foolish not to. Why on earth would you want to reuse old bearings that have thousands of miles on them?
I do have a clamshell puller and I still put new bearings on when installing a new carrier, it would be foolish not to. Why on earth would you want to reuse old bearings that have thousands of miles on them?
Well, if you change your fluid often enough you don't have to worry about the thousands of miles. Oh, and the fact that your front axle isn't spinning under load for all of the miles your vehicle has on it so the bearings are probably in like new condition. Not everybody feels the need to waste money just for the heck of it.
Well, if you change your fluid often enough you don't have to worry about the thousands of miles. Oh, and the fact that your front axle isn't spinning under load for all of the miles your vehicle has on it so the bearings are probably in like new condition. Not everybody feels the need to waste money just for the heck of it.
If you want to go through all of that trouble to reuse old bearings like a hack mechanic just to save $60 then go right ahead. That is not something I would ever do.
It's a ProRock 60 (stronger Dana 60). The CV's don't have a problem binding while turning, that's the point.
Peanuts to pumpkins. The OP has a factory front end with u-joints that WILL break with a locker if trying to turn. Lets keep it ON TOPIC and not the one offs that no one else has here. The best solution the OP has is a TruTrak setup, locks when needed free when not. Least likely to break his components and give the traction needed for mus and snow driving off road. He's not rock crawling.
If you want to go through all of that trouble to reuse old bearings like a hack mechanic just to save $60 then go right ahead. That is not something I would ever do.
A hack mechanic? The front axle of most trucks sees hardly any use. As long as those bearings are lubricated they will last for hundreds of thousands of miles. A hack mechanic replaces parts and then tells the customer it HAD to be replaced. Do you replace wheel bearings every 30k miles too?
A hack mechanic? The front axle of most trucks sees hardly any use. As long as those bearings are lubricated they will last for hundreds of thousands of miles. A hack mechanic replaces parts and then tells the customer it HAD to be replaced. Do you replace wheel bearings every 30k miles too?
I do on my trailers. Cheap insurance. Do you put the old antifreeze back in when you replace the water pump? What about the diff fluid? Why not, it has no miles on it like the bearings? Spend $2K to have the differential replaced and reuse the old bearings to save $60. Thats just crazy.
I do on my trailers. Cheap insurance. Do you put the old antifreeze back in when you replace the water pump? What about the diff fluid? Why not, it has no miles on it like the bearings? Spend $2K to have the differential replaced and reuse the old bearings to save $60. Thats just crazy.
fluids. You stretch before that reach? Never in any post did I say anything about reusing fluids. I did say replacing the fluid every 30-40k miles.. If the bearings only have 30-40k miles on them there is zero reason to replace unless they are damaged. Bearings can last for a very long time when they are properly lubricated. I only replace my trailer wheel bearings when they need replaced. My 5th wheel has 30k miles on it and I repacked the bearings with high quality grease cause they looked brand new and the spindles had no marring on it they will outlast the 5th wheel as long as I keep servicing them. If I never change my diff fluid and it has 150k miles on it and I'm rebuilding it makes sense to replace them but not if you've been doing preventative maintenance and changing fluids in a timely manner especially on the front axle.
A hack mechanic? The front axle of most trucks sees hardly any use. As long as those bearings are lubricated they will last for hundreds of thousands of miles. A hack mechanic replaces parts and then tells the customer it HAD to be replaced. Do you replace wheel bearings every 30k miles too?
In the front Dana 60 you will have to use the old ones to make setup bearings anyway.
Well, if you change your fluid often enough you don't have to worry about the thousands of miles. Oh, and the fact that your front axle isn't spinning under load for all of the miles your vehicle has on it so the bearings are probably in like new condition. Not everybody feels the need to waste money just for the heck of it.
I would have zero issue reusing the bearings either. Compare that to any stock rear axle from cars and trucks that are 20-30-40-50 years old on stock bearings going just fine...those bearings see a load on them for every mile on the odometer.
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